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Go Back   The Ranger Station Forums > Axles, Brakes, Wheels & Tires > Ranger Axles

Ranger Axles Dana 28, Dana 35, Ford 7.5 & Ford 8.8

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Old 10-25-2007, 11:38 PM   #1
nidf88
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Default 7.5 to 8.8 driveshaft/brakes

i have an 85 ranger 4x4 reg cab. 1350 case, 7.5 rear, spicer 2 piece drive shaft. will i have to swap drive shafts if i go to an 8.8? is so, i have to swap the rear output flange on my 1350 right? and will an 8.8 really "bolt in" no welding? if so, what years are direct bolt on? will my rear sway bar still bolt on? can i keep my drums off the 7.5? can i use the same shocks? is the flange on the 8.8 the same as the 7.5?
i know some of the years newer than my 85 have different drive shafts becuase its always been a pain getting the flange off the transfer case of a newer junkyard ranger when ever i've swapped blown cases.

thanks for all the help in the past TRS!
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Old 10-26-2007, 06:02 PM   #2
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'90-'92 4.0L V6 Rangers would have the bolt-in 8.8" for yours (later ones will still bolt in, but are 2" wider at the wheel flanges).
Use the whole axle, the brakes and everything else on it is better than your 7.5".

Edit:
As for the driveshaft, you may have to get a custom one made. The 8.8" flange is bigger than your 7.5" one, and I'm not sure a flange adapter exists for the tiny u-joints early Rangers had.
You could also modify the 8.8 flange by drilling & tapping new holes on it, although you'll probably want to have the bigger u-joints too.
(unless you have the A4LD auto trans, later driveshafts that would otherwise fit with the 8.8 would be too short).
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Last edited by 4x4junkie; 10-26-2007 at 06:06 PM.
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Old 10-26-2007, 07:32 PM   #3
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Yes an 8.8 can "bolt in". If you happen to get a 31 spline you will need the larger u-bolts due to the larger tube diameter. All the 8.8s I've put in had 10in drums. If you have 9in drums you would be upgrading in that aspect. Aside from replacing the wear items such as shoes and wheel cylinders there are no modifications needed to the brakes. The shocks use the same location. You will be playing a few games with the driveshafts. There are a few patterns on the companion flange; you might luck out but with the small joints that is doubted. You should be able to get lucky in the yard and find some driveshafts and flanges to get it to work. If you have some skill you will be able to drill the companion flange. You'll have to pull the flange and use a drill press. Very highly doubted you will have success drilling it by hand with the flange still on the axle.

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Old 10-26-2007, 10:36 PM   #4
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If you pull the flange off the 8.8 just call up Randy's and order the flange for a car application (mustang) it has the smaller 2.5" bolt pattern that will match the small joint RBV shaft.
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Old 10-29-2007, 11:04 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Totalled View Post
If you pull the flange off the 8.8 just call up Randy's and order the flange for a car application (mustang) it has the smaller 2.5" bolt pattern that will match the small joint RBV shaft.
However ths requires disassembling the differential and resetting pinion bearing preload.

all things considered it's easier to play driveshaft games.

An '85 4x4 may or may not have the "tiny" U-joints and if it has the "normal" U-joints you can rob the rear flange adapter off of any '90-97 Ranger
or most Aerostars that have the larger flange...

Or simply ask one of the resident yard crawlers (hint) if they have
the proper yoke adapter laying about (hint)

Depending on which trans he has he might be able to simply grab the entire driveshaft off of a later "larger flange" Ranger.

Do you have an A4LD? if so just get a driveshaft for a 1990-up Ranger
4x4 with the same bed length as yours (the 1985 manual trans is 2" shorter)

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Old 10-29-2007, 11:09 AM   #6
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my 91 8.8 has both patterns drilled into the flange.
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Old 10-29-2007, 02:23 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by rickcdewitt View Post
my 91 8.8 has both patterns drilled into the flange.

Unless you drilled it there yourself, no it doesn't.

what it has is the large four bolt pattern, twice
and two extra holes for attaching a puller to get the flange off if it doesn't come off readily.

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Old 10-30-2007, 10:37 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllanD View Post
Unless you drilled it there yourself, no it doesn't.

what it has is the large four bolt pattern, twice
and two extra holes for attaching a puller to get the flange off if it doesn't come off readily.

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yep you are right,i've messed with it enough i should know.spreading disinformation.thats what i get for voicing an assumtion.i always put the driveshaft back on in the same spot and never checked just assumed,thanks.
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Old 10-30-2007, 02:06 PM   #9
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thanks for the info! i HAD an A4LD... but swapped over to an FM146 to keep my stock drive shaft length. the FM146 was the exact same length as my A4LD. the 1350 transfer case on my truck has an output flange that the u-joints on the drive shaft actually sit into. my drive shaft is the 2 piece style with the splined shaft covered by a boot. the u-joints on it are right at 2.5" across. the measurement i got for the length is 43.25" flange to flange. it was 46" from axle flange to base of my transfer case. the flange on my axle is right at 4.5" across. just so happens that i have another 1350 from a newer ranger with the shorter flat output flange laying around. i would rebuild any rear end i got with a new ring and pinion anyways so if that mustang flange would work, then i would be in business.
once again thanks to all that have replied.
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