TOWING a Ranger as opposed to towing WITH a Ranger - Page 2

TwoTrackMind · 10-09-2011, 09:11 PM

Another year, another 40,000 towed miles later, and still no problems. I just dont understand...

**Will** · 10-10-2011, 04:12 PM

I guess since it isn't under load it needs less lube. I wouldn't do it unless the manual says it's okay. My '91 book says (manual or auto) 50 miles max on the rear wheels, 35mph max. Since Rangers are kind of cheap and easy to work on, I might tow mine flat and maybe getting out and running the engine a bit every so often would help spin some lube back up in there. The driveshaft is pretty easy to disconnect, though. Takes less than 5 minutes.

88ranger89camaro · 10-10-2011, 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TwoTrackMind

Another year, another 40,000 towed miles later, and still no problems. I just dont understand...

see thats what i do not get

in the rv world up untill mid to late 90's if it had a manual it was good to go all 4 wheels on the ground, even to this day the good sam and FMCA annual "toad" guide shows many manuals OK for 4 wheels on the ground ..... most of the older RVes or ones like me who we always had a motorhome growing up always looked for manual cars/trucks as "toads" and towed them more miles that actually drove on them and never had trouble

still

but it is what it is i guess, i been using a car hauler lately, had a saturn for awile that was auto that was able to be 4 wheels down

85_Ranger4x4 · 10-10-2011, 07:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Will

The driveshaft is pretty easy to disconnect, though. Takes less than 5 minutes.

Depends on how long ago it was last off.

**Will** · 10-11-2011, 11:26 AM

True, I should have qualified it: once you get it loose the first time "..."

DrPorky · 03-07-2012, 03:05 PM

I have a '94 Ranger Extended Cab XLT 4x4 3.0 with Automatic Trans.

I'm needing to tow it with a dolly and read somewhere that you can tow it backwards with the front hubs disengaged and lock the wheel with rope or seatbelt or some such and thus not have to worry about disconnecting the drive shaft at the rear.

I have crawled under the truck and found that the front shaft spins freely, but, should I still be concerned?

I have called 2 different Ford shops, one never called me back and the other said they weren't sure (pretty sure that's code for 'leave us alone, we're busy'), I've been researching online for weeks and I have talked to a couple of transmission people, but, no one can give me an answer for some reason.

I have no problem with disconnecting the drive shaft if need be, however, it would be really nice to not have to worry about that if I don't have to.

Any help?

88ranger89camaro · 03-07-2012, 08:24 PM

Towing anything on a dolly with the rear wheels on the dolly is NOT a good idea at all. If your stearing wheel is not dead locked in the center it will cause all kinds of problems

Either pull the drive shaft or get a true car trailer

If you have a manual transfer case cant you just put it in neutral and go to town

DoctorPhate · 03-08-2012, 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 88ranger89camaro

Towing anything on a dolly with the rear wheels on the dolly is NOT a good idea at all. If your stearing wheel is not dead locked in the center it will cause all kinds of problems

Either pull the drive shaft or get a true car trailer

If you have a manual transfer case cant you just put it in neutral and go to town

Depends on the transfercase. In some cases it'll continue to spin(obviously) but without lubrication where as other cases it'll spin which causes the lubrication. So you'll need to research how your case is lubricated.

exbass94 · 03-08-2012, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DoctorPhate

Depends on the transfercase. In some cases it'll continue to spin(obviously) but without lubrication where as other cases it'll spin which causes the lubrication. So you'll need to research how your case is lubricated.

All BW1354 transfer cases can be flat towed with the transfer case in neutral. Did you read the original post at all?

Quote:

Ford's recommended towing method for a 4x4 with a manual T-case is
to tow with the transfer case in neutral and the transmission in
Park (auto) or in gear (manual)

a 4x4 with an electronically shifted T-case has no user accessable
Neutral.

The thing is the T-cases used in Ranger Based Vehicles have
positive pressure lubrication from an internal oil pump that is
driven by the output shaft.

racsan · 06-23-2012, 09:52 PM

its a wonder i didnt blow my trans. towed the ranger on a 2 wheel u-haul dolly 15 miles to the farm to work on it, pulled it up onto the dolly in 4L, front hubs unlocked, front driveshaft had also been removed. left it in 4L. turned engine off just out of habit, pulled at about 45 mph to the farm 15 miles. (t-cas still in 4L) so the output shaft of the trans was probly spinning at a rpm equivaleant to 70+ mph if the t-case had been in high range. must have got lucky, seems to have no ill effects from it all. not sure how. must have gotton enough oil splashed around before transport that it didnt burn a bearing up. maybe the angle of the truck on the dolly was enough to have the oil level high enough at the back of the trans. thats a possibility. i still say i must have gotton lucky, now that ive read this.

**dhkonrad** · 08-17-2012, 11:58 AM

In my ford manual, it says that if you have front manual locking hubs, then just remove the rear drive shaft and tow in 2HI, then when you get where you're going, just drive around in 4HI, effectively making it front wheel drive...

**Will** · 08-18-2012, 08:11 AM

Your Ford manual says to drive it without the rear driveshaft?

10-09-2011, 09:11 PM	#13
TwoTrackMind Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: in my truck mostly, but I do hit the house in Michigan occasionally Year: 1998 et al Make: Ford/AutoZone Model: Ranger xlt longbed Engine: 3.0L at best Class: 4x4+ Used For: work/screwin'off/sleeping/eating/drinking,etc. Posts: 137 Rep Power: 9 iTrader: (1)	Hmmm... Another year, another 40,000 towed miles later, and still no problems. I just dont understand... __________________ LOUD TIRES SAVE LIVES People accuse me of wandering aimlessly through the desert naked and alone, but thats simply untrue... I have a cat.
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10-10-2011, 04:12 PM	#14
Will Super Moderator Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Columbus, Indiana Year: 1989 Make: Ford Model: Bronco II Engine: 4.0 Class: 4X4 Used For: a chicken house Posts: 5,847 Rep Power: 10 iTrader: (1)	I guess since it isn't under load it needs less lube. I wouldn't do it unless the manual says it's okay. My '91 book says (manual or auto) 50 miles max on the rear wheels, 35mph max. Since Rangers are kind of cheap and easy to work on, I might tow mine flat and maybe getting out and running the engine a bit every so often would help spin some lube back up in there. The driveshaft is pretty easy to disconnect, though. Takes less than 5 minutes. __________________ '83 Ranger cab, '89 B2 frame, 4.0, C5, D35/8.8, 4.10s, Lockrights. '87 Chevy crew 6.2 Banks turbodiesel TH400 GearVendors 4.10 14-bolt Detroit '96 VW Passat Tdi '00 Ford E350 15-pax Powerstroke '09 Suzuki TU250X '04 Moto Guzzi Breva http://willwills.com/
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10-11-2011, 11:26 AM	#17
Will Super Moderator Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Columbus, Indiana Year: 1989 Make: Ford Model: Bronco II Engine: 4.0 Class: 4X4 Used For: a chicken house Posts: 5,847 Rep Power: 10 iTrader: (1)	True, I should have qualified it: once you get it loose the first time "..." __________________ '83 Ranger cab, '89 B2 frame, 4.0, C5, D35/8.8, 4.10s, Lockrights. '87 Chevy crew 6.2 Banks turbodiesel TH400 GearVendors 4.10 14-bolt Detroit '96 VW Passat Tdi '00 Ford E350 15-pax Powerstroke '09 Suzuki TU250X '04 Moto Guzzi Breva http://willwills.com/
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03-07-2012, 03:05 PM	#18
DrPorky New Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Year: 1994 Make: Ford Model: Ranger 4x4 Posts: 1 Rep Power: 0 iTrader: (0)	I have a '94 Ranger Extended Cab XLT 4x4 3.0 with Automatic Trans. I'm needing to tow it with a dolly and read somewhere that you can tow it backwards with the front hubs disengaged and lock the wheel with rope or seatbelt or some such and thus not have to worry about disconnecting the drive shaft at the rear. I have crawled under the truck and found that the front shaft spins freely, but, should I still be concerned? I have called 2 different Ford shops, one never called me back and the other said they weren't sure (pretty sure that's code for 'leave us alone, we're busy'), I've been researching online for weeks and I have talked to a couple of transmission people, but, no one can give me an answer for some reason. I have no problem with disconnecting the drive shaft if need be, however, it would be really nice to not have to worry about that if I don't have to. Any help?
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03-07-2012, 08:24 PM	#19
88ranger89camaro Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Lower Alabama (Fairhope) Year: 1988 Make: Ford Model: Ranger XLT Engine: 2.3 Class: 2WD Used For: Get to Work/Tow Rig Posts: 127 Rep Power: 4 iTrader: (0)	Towing anything on a dolly with the rear wheels on the dolly is NOT a good idea at all. If your stearing wheel is not dead locked in the center it will cause all kinds of problems Either pull the drive shaft or get a true car trailer If you have a manual transfer case cant you just put it in neutral and go to town
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06-23-2012, 09:52 PM	#22
racsan Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: marion ohio Year: 1993 Make: ford Model: ranger s/c Engine: 4.0/245 c.i.d. Class: 4xford Used For: gitten' it done! Posts: 1,319 Rep Power: 16 iTrader: (0)	its a wonder i didnt blow my trans. towed the ranger on a 2 wheel u-haul dolly 15 miles to the farm to work on it, pulled it up onto the dolly in 4L, front hubs unlocked, front driveshaft had also been removed. left it in 4L. turned engine off just out of habit, pulled at about 45 mph to the farm 15 miles. (t-cas still in 4L) so the output shaft of the trans was probly spinning at a rpm equivaleant to 70+ mph if the t-case had been in high range. must have got lucky, seems to have no ill effects from it all. not sure how. must have gotton enough oil splashed around before transport that it didnt burn a bearing up. maybe the angle of the truck on the dolly was enough to have the oil level high enough at the back of the trans. thats a possibility. i still say i must have gotton lucky, now that ive read this. __________________ at the corner of "walk" & "dont walk" cardomain link:--> http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3216869 1993 ranger s/c 4.0 hurst-equipped 5-spd,3.73s ,4x4, milemarker hubs, black grille guard/tube steps,summit rear diff cover with bearing load supports. 117K & still going strong. http://www.myspace.com/small_dog_trucking
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08-17-2012, 11:58 AM	#23
dhkonrad Premium Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Auburn California Year: 1993 Make: Ford Model: Ranger xlt Engine: 4.0L Class: 4x4 Used For: Offroading Posts: 386 Rep Power: 6 iTrader: (0)	In my ford manual, it says that if you have front manual locking hubs, then just remove the rear drive shaft and tow in 2HI, then when you get where you're going, just drive around in 4HI, effectively making it front wheel drive...
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08-18-2012, 08:11 AM	#24
Will Super Moderator Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Columbus, Indiana Year: 1989 Make: Ford Model: Bronco II Engine: 4.0 Class: 4X4 Used For: a chicken house Posts: 5,847 Rep Power: 10 iTrader: (1)	Your Ford manual says to drive it without the rear driveshaft? __________________ '83 Ranger cab, '89 B2 frame, 4.0, C5, D35/8.8, 4.10s, Lockrights. '87 Chevy crew 6.2 Banks turbodiesel TH400 GearVendors 4.10 14-bolt Detroit '96 VW Passat Tdi '00 Ford E350 15-pax Powerstroke '09 Suzuki TU250X '04 Moto Guzzi Breva http://willwills.com/
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