In the middle of my auto to manual swap...

**mjonesjr** · 05-24-2008, 07:18 AM

And I can't get the freakin transmission back in. The auto came out without any problems, but the M50D will NOT go back in.

Any advise without taking the Y-pipe lose from the headers, the bolts are really rusted and they seem to be threaded into the header. I don't want to break one and then be up a shit creek without a paddle.

mkpecor · 05-24-2008, 08:31 AM

can you get the bell houseing to sit on top of the Y pipe? if you can rest it on the y pipe and lift up the back of tranny and slide it forwerd, the y pipe will hold the waight . or you are going to have to take the y pipe off. grind the nuts off and punch the rest through, and get new nuts and bolts. good luck

Hahnsb2 · 05-24-2008, 10:33 AM

Some people have loosened body mounts and lifted the body slightly.

**mjonesjr** · 05-24-2008, 10:36 AM

I am going to cut the y-pipe and use a sleeve clamp until I can get someone to weld it back up.

The transmission is hitting the floor board.

Bruce · 05-24-2008, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mjones

I am going to cut the y-pipe and use a sleeve clamp until I can get someone to weld it back up.

The transmission is hitting the floor board.

Thats what a lot of tranny shops do is cut the crossover pipe and weld it back in.

**mjonesjr** · 05-24-2008, 11:06 AM

I don't know what else to do. I am at a loss.

**MAKG** · 05-24-2008, 11:35 AM

Get an air impact and whack the crap out of the manifold-to-Y-pipe bolts. It may take a while. Kroil helps.

It's substantially easier to do this with no transmission than it is with it installed.

I managed to get all four bolts out of my 1986 Bronco II that way. And don't dismiss it as a California vehicle. I found crap from Boston (like a video rental card -- not vacation stuff) in it when I cleaned it out for the first time.

On the other hand, Exploder bolts came out with a 1/2 inch breaker bar. THAT'S a California vehicle.

Once you get the bolts out, chase the threads with a tap and replace the bolts with stainless. With some Nev-R-Seez for good measure.

Bruce · 05-24-2008, 02:04 PM

If you have a torch (dont know if ya do)heat the flange up almost cherry red and as it starts cooling sometimes the bolts will come right out and i usually wash them down with WD40 before i heatem. ive also had them come out just putting some heat to the flange or heating them and letting them cool works to sometimes.

Good Luck.

**4x4RangerGuy** · 05-24-2008, 06:57 PM

I actually forced my M5OD over the y-pipe when I did my swap; I don't know if you have a cat. there, but I actually was able to force it over the cat. and under the cab seam with brute force. It just ended up denting the heat shield for the cat, which I just pryed back into place.

Another person can help immensely as they can pry down on the pipe/cat. and force over the transmission.

cocoasranger · 05-25-2008, 11:53 AM

I also put mine in by brute force like 4X4RangerGuy without removing the y-pipe. I did disconnect the exhaust at the flange after the cat which helped greatly. After trying for hours unsuccessfully, I put two bolts thru the rear holes in the trans and put a long bar across them; that allowed the trans to be rotated clockwise and counterclockwise radially as it was pushed forward. This made all the difference and the trans soon slipped in.

**mjonesjr** · 05-25-2008, 12:32 PM

I can't use TTL much brute force because I have the front on jackstands. I had to remove the rear extended radius arm mount to drop the transmission crossmember. The Superlift extended radius arms mount almost under the trans cross member.

**Jspafford** · 05-25-2008, 01:10 PM

I took out a FM-146 and put in a M5OD without touching the exhaust on my 1989 B2. My exhaust was rusted to hell and I wasn't even going to open that can of worms.

I hammered the flange on the bottom of the floorboard flat and then wedged the tranny onto the top of the crossover pipe and pushed up on it and it popped into place. It took some time to think it through, but I did it.

IIRC I also had the shift tower off at the time, so that may have made it easier.

**mjonesjr** · 05-25-2008, 01:24 PM

I have hammered that lip as flat as possible. Maybe the floor pans are a tad different?

**4x4RangerGuy** · 05-25-2008, 03:28 PM

MJones, my truck was on a lift in the air while I was installing it; as long as you're on a flat surface with good jackstands you should be fine.

Have someone help you with a small prybar and you really shouldn't have a problem.

Hahnsb2 · 05-25-2008, 03:41 PM

Possible to tilt the engine back, thus lowering the y-pipe?

05-24-2008, 07:18 AM	#1
mjonesjr Plannin For Tomorrow... Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Salem, IN Posts: 4,459 Rep Power: 10 iTrader: (6)	In the middle of my auto to manual swap... And I can't get the freakin transmission back in. The auto came out without any problems, but the M50D will NOT go back in. Any advise without taking the Y-pipe lose from the headers, the bolts are really rusted and they seem to be threaded into the header. I don't want to break one and then be up a shit creek without a paddle. __________________ ""If people let government decide what foods they eat and what medicines they take, their bodies will soon be in as sorry a state as are the souls of those who live under tyranny." *~ Thomas Jefferson* ~ Support Our Troops!**

05-24-2008, 08:31 AM	#2
mkpecor Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: black diamond W.A. Year: 1988 Make: ranger 4x4 Model: super cab,st-x Engine: 2.9 Class: off road 4x4 Used For: daily driver and weekend wheeler Posts: 1,021 Rep Power: 8 iTrader: (0)	can you get the bell houseing to sit on top of the Y pipe? if you can rest it on the y pipe and lift up the back of tranny and slide it forwerd, the y pipe will hold the waight . or you are going to have to take the y pipe off. grind the nuts off and punch the rest through, and get new nuts and bolts. good luck __________________ 88 ranger super cab st-x-throtle body ,cold air intake, 92 explorer D35/LS 8.8 swap, 6" SK susp..lift ,black crawler rims,33" swompers,warn lock out hubs,manual t-case swap, smitty built bumpers, rock sliders,kc lights,cb ,hi lift jack,cooler full of beer

05-24-2008, 10:33 AM	#3
Hahnsb2 Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Battle Ground WA Year: 88-95 Make: Ford-Dodge Model: BII-Dakota Engine: 4.0-5.2 Turbo Class: Real 4WD, 3WD. Used For: Breaking things-Going fast Posts: 3,396 Rep Power: 13 iTrader: (1)	Some people have loosened body mounts and lifted the body slightly. __________________ 88 Bronco II, 4.0L, M5OD, 4.56s, Aussie Locked 8.8/D35, 1354M, 34" LTBs 95 Dakota CC, 5.2, 5 Spd, 4x4, Remote Turbo, M1 Intake Manifold, Mopar PCM, HS 1.7 RRs, 50mm TB, 3.55s, 31s, Locked

05-24-2008, 10:36 AM	#4
mjonesjr Plannin For Tomorrow... Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Salem, IN Posts: 4,459 Rep Power: 10 iTrader: (6)	I am going to cut the y-pipe and use a sleeve clamp until I can get someone to weld it back up. The transmission is hitting the floor board. __________________ ""If people let government decide what foods they eat and what medicines they take, their bodies will soon be in as sorry a state as are the souls of those who live under tyranny." *~ Thomas Jefferson* ~ Support Our Troops!**

05-24-2008, 11:06 AM	#6
mjonesjr Plannin For Tomorrow... Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Salem, IN Posts: 4,459 Rep Power: 10 iTrader: (6)	I don't know what else to do. I am at a loss. __________________ ""If people let government decide what foods they eat and what medicines they take, their bodies will soon be in as sorry a state as are the souls of those who live under tyranny." *~ Thomas Jefferson* ~ Support Our Troops!**

05-24-2008, 11:35 AM	#7
MAKG RBV Technical Advisor Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: California central coast Year: 1991 Make: Ford Model: Explorer Engine: 4.0L Class: 4x4 Posts: 4,644 Rep Power: 16 iTrader: (0)	Get an air impact and whack the crap out of the manifold-to-Y-pipe bolts. It may take a while. Kroil helps. It's substantially easier to do this with no transmission than it is with it installed. I managed to get all four bolts out of my 1986 Bronco II that way. And don't dismiss it as a California vehicle. I found crap from Boston (like a video rental card -- not vacation stuff) in it when I cleaned it out for the first time. On the other hand, Exploder bolts came out with a 1/2 inch breaker bar. THAT'S a California vehicle. Once you get the bolts out, chase the threads with a tap and replace the bolts with stainless. With some Nev-R-Seez for good measure. __________________ 1990 VW Jetta GL, 1.8L 8V gasoline engine, manual transmission, painted in oxidized red paint and ponderosa pine sap, unknown mileage. 1991 Exploder, 4.0L, M5OD-R1 manual transmission, electronic BW1354 transfer case, 3.54 gears, 31 inch tires, icky two-tone blue paint with little clear coat, 230K miles. 1972 Chevy C-10, 250 I-6, SM465 (2WD) four-on-the-floor, 3.73 gears in a GM 12-bolt, puke green with a white cab. The "4 wheeled trash can," with x70K miles. x is probably 2.

05-24-2008, 02:04 PM	#8
Bruce Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Southwest Missouri Year: 2002 Make: Ford Model: Ranger Super Cab XLT Engine: 4.0 SOHC Class: 4x4 4:10 gears Used For: Daily Driver Posts: 365 Rep Power: 6 iTrader: (0)	If you have a torch (dont know if ya do)heat the flange up almost cherry red and as it starts cooling sometimes the bolts will come right out and i usually wash them down with WD40 before i heatem. ive also had them come out just putting some heat to the flange or heating them and letting them cool works to sometimes. Good Luck. __________________ 2002 Ranger Supercab 4x4 4 door 4.0 with 4:10 gears.

05-24-2008, 06:57 PM	#9
4x4RangerGuy The 3.0's Biggest Fan Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Newton Highlands, MA Year: 2003 Make: Subaru Model: Impreza WRX Engine: 2.0 Class: AWD Used For: DD, showing up ricers, fun Posts: 811 Rep Power: 8 iTrader: (1)	I actually forced my M5OD over the y-pipe when I did my swap; I don't know if you have a cat. there, but I actually was able to force it over the cat. and under the cab seam with brute force. It just ended up denting the heat shield for the cat, which I just pryed back into place. Another person can help immensely as they can pry down on the pipe/cat. and force over the transmission. __________________ 1998 Ranger XLT 4x4 SOLD 2003 Subaru Impreza WRX Still the 3.0's biggest fan.

05-25-2008, 11:53 AM	#10
cocoasranger Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: south central Pa. Year: 1989 Make: Ford Model: Ranger Posts: 524 Rep Power: 8 iTrader: (0)	I also put mine in by brute force like 4X4RangerGuy without removing the y-pipe. I did disconnect the exhaust at the flange after the cat which helped greatly. After trying for hours unsuccessfully, I put two bolts thru the rear holes in the trans and put a long bar across them; that allowed the trans to be rotated clockwise and counterclockwise radially as it was pushed forward. This made all the difference and the trans soon slipped in. __________________ 89 Ranger 4wd std. cab, long bed w. 2.9L and Mazda M5OD R-1 trans. Manual 13-50 transfer case, 10 clutch and starter upgrade. Manual locking hubs, explorer leaf spring upgrade, 93-94 clutch master upgrade for better feel.

05-25-2008, 12:32 PM	#11
mjonesjr Plannin For Tomorrow... Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Salem, IN Posts: 4,459 Rep Power: 10 iTrader: (6)	I can't use TTL much brute force because I have the front on jackstands. I had to remove the rear extended radius arm mount to drop the transmission crossmember. The Superlift extended radius arms mount almost under the trans cross member. __________________ ""If people let government decide what foods they eat and what medicines they take, their bodies will soon be in as sorry a state as are the souls of those who live under tyranny." *~ Thomas Jefferson* ~ Support Our Troops!**

05-25-2008, 01:10 PM	#12
Jspafford Chevy Driver..... Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Canal Winchester, Ohio Year: 1989, 2001 Make: Ford, Chevy Model: Bronco II, 2500HD Engine: 2.9L, 6.6L Duramax Class: 4x4 Used For: Tickets Posts: 7,773 Rep Power: 10 iTrader: (14)	I took out a FM-146 and put in a M5OD without touching the exhaust on my 1989 B2. My exhaust was rusted to hell and I wasn't even going to open that can of worms. I hammered the flange on the bottom of the floorboard flat and then wedged the tranny onto the top of the crossover pipe and pushed up on it and it popped into place. It took some time to think it through, but I did it. IIRC I also had the shift tower off at the time, so that may have made it easier.

05-25-2008, 01:24 PM	#13
mjonesjr Plannin For Tomorrow... Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Salem, IN Posts: 4,459 Rep Power: 10 iTrader: (6)	I have hammered that lip as flat as possible. Maybe the floor pans are a tad different? __________________ ""If people let government decide what foods they eat and what medicines they take, their bodies will soon be in as sorry a state as are the souls of those who live under tyranny." *~ Thomas Jefferson* ~ Support Our Troops!**

05-25-2008, 03:28 PM	#14
4x4RangerGuy The 3.0's Biggest Fan Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Newton Highlands, MA Year: 2003 Make: Subaru Model: Impreza WRX Engine: 2.0 Class: AWD Used For: DD, showing up ricers, fun Posts: 811 Rep Power: 8 iTrader: (1)	MJones, my truck was on a lift in the air while I was installing it; as long as you're on a flat surface with good jackstands you should be fine. Have someone help you with a small prybar and you really shouldn't have a problem. __________________ 1998 Ranger XLT 4x4 SOLD 2003 Subaru Impreza WRX Still the 3.0's biggest fan.

05-25-2008, 03:41 PM	#15
Hahnsb2 Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Battle Ground WA Year: 88-95 Make: Ford-Dodge Model: BII-Dakota Engine: 4.0-5.2 Turbo Class: Real 4WD, 3WD. Used For: Breaking things-Going fast Posts: 3,396 Rep Power: 13 iTrader: (1)	Possible to tilt the engine back, thus lowering the y-pipe? __________________ 88 Bronco II, 4.0L, M5OD, 4.56s, Aussie Locked 8.8/D35, 1354M, 34" LTBs 95 Dakota CC, 5.2, 5 Spd, 4x4, Remote Turbo, M1 Intake Manifold, Mopar PCM, HS 1.7 RRs, 50mm TB, 3.55s, 31s, Locked

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode