• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

How to Replace Radiator in a 3.0 Ranger


chicagodude

Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2007
Messages
51
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ranger
Transmission
Automatic
Greetings Folks,

I have a leak in my 94 Ranger radiator. It has a 3.0 two-wheel drive with automatic trans. I bought a new radiator and I'm ready to install it this weekend.

Can you tell me the steps for replacing it? Is it going to be a piece of cake or a PITA to replace?

How long should it take me to do the job? I am reasonably good at minor mechanical work like this and I have tools and a place to do it.

Many thanks for you help!
 
Last edited:


RonD

Official TRS AI
TRS Technical Advisor
Joined
Jun 2, 2012
Messages
25,363
Reaction score
8,369
Points
113
Location
canada
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
Shouldn't take more than 2 hours, take lots of pictures if its your first time, memory is a tricky thing, lol, especially if you are interrupted by something else.

I would flush the cooling system first, if rad was leaking from a rust out then other parts of the cooling system will have been effected.
This will add to the time since engine needs to be heated up for flushing fluid to reach all the parts, remember to turn Heat on to Full, blower fan can be left on off.
Also feel the heater hoses in the engine compartment, the hotter one is the IN hose, cooler is the OUT hose, label one for later use :)

Disconnect battery
Remove rad cap and overflow hose, put overflow hose lower than overflow tank, that should drain the tank, rinse tank out with water, and make sure it comes out clean, no debris.
Start draining coolant from rad
Remove air plenum from intake, both ends.
Unbolt and move fan shroud back and out of the way, as much as possible, lol.
Remove upper rad hose
Remove lower rad hose, from engine end as well

Have a couple of small containers ready, and rubber bands with sandwich bags
Unbolt the trans cooler lines at the bottom of the rad, trans fluid will leak out from rad and the lines, put sandwich bag over each line, twist it tight and hold in place with rubber band, just a gravity leak so no pressure.
Containers are for trans fluid leaking out of rad.

Unbolt rad from rad support
Remove rad and lay it flat to stop trans fluid from leaking.
Get new rad and compare trans cooler hook ups, sometimes you will need to remove insert/adapter from old rad trans cooler to use in new rad.

Install and bolt new rad to rad support
Hookup trans cooler lines
With coolant drained I would take the time to back flush the heater core at this time.
It is simple and well worth the effort, remove heater hoses from engine end.
From above check of hot and not as hot hose check :)
Take the IN hose and bend it so it points down at the ground
Take a garden hose and hold it tightly against the OUT hose end
Turn on garden hose, lower pressure is fine
This will push any larger debris in the core out the way it came in

If flow thru core is slow you can use a mixture of warm water and CLR or Vinegar.
Blow out the water in the core, just your lungs are fine.
Fill core with mixture and let it sit for 20 minutes
Then use garden hose again and see if flow has improved
Repeat as you see fit.
Reinstall heater hoses.

Reinstall lower rad hose and upper rad hose
Reinstall fan shroud.

At this time I would recommend starting engine and checking trans cooler connections.
It is ok to run a cold engine for a minute or two without coolant.
It will only take trans pump a few seconds to build up pressure in those lines so you will know if connections are good within 1 minute.

If all is well, remove 1 heater hose from firewall and lift it up so it's the highest point on cooling system.
Refill system with coolant
When coolant starts coming out the heater core, lower heater hose and reconnect.
That should prevent an air lock when first starting engine.
Fill rad the rest of the way.
Hook up overflow hose

Fill overflow tank to Cold Mark.

Start engine with rad cap off, coolant level should drop a bit top it off, when level seems stable put on rad cap.

Go for a drive to get engine up to operating temp, this should purge the rest of the air in the system via the overflow.
Check trans fluid level(warmed up is best) and top up as needed.
Let engine cool off then check the overflow tank level, top up to Cold Mark if needed
 
Last edited:

chicagodude

Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2007
Messages
51
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ranger
Transmission
Automatic
Thanks guys for your help.

I swapped out the radiator but have one issue with the trans fluid lines leaking. Both lines leak at the joint where the tapered adapter that came with the radiator screws into the radiator.. The adapter is tapered on the radiator side. I put some high-temp thread sealant on it and I will check tomorrow to see if it still leaks.

15 hours after installing the trans lines, I see no trans fluid leaks so I'm hoping no more leaking. The jury is still out on whether the thread sealant prevents any more leaking.

After doing some research on the Internet I see that several people have used teflon tape on these adapters with success. If I get another leak, I'll try the tape method.

Other than the leaking trans lines, the swap went very smoothly with no other issues.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Staff online

Today's birthdays

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Truck of The Month


Shran
April Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Top