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1999 Ford Ranger 5 clutch problem


ricktherebel

Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2012
Messages
15
Vehicle Year
1996
Transmission
Automatic
My 99 Ranger just started giving me problems shifting while at a stand stlil. In all gears it is hard to get into gear, but if I shut engine off no problem. A new clutch was put in 10000 miles ago. Put fluid in Slave cylinder, didn't need much. I remember having to do clutch adjustments back in the old days. But I heard it's done automatically. Any help would be appreciated.
 
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Reads like there is some air in the system.
I would first check for leaks in the hose, feel it for fluid on the outside, and bottom of bell housing for leaking fluid.
Try rebleeding system.

Yes, it is a self adjusting system so no user adjustments are available.
I think you mean you added fluid to the reservoir, not slave.

There is a good video on bleeding the master cylinder
Google: How To Bleed A Ford Ranger Clutch Master Cylinder

Because the master sits at an angle it can get air trapped at the top, this clears that air and gets full pedal back.
 
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Reads like the slave blew up.
 
Still having the problem. I can shift into gears while driving it's when I come to a stop I have the problem. No fluid leak. Does the switch On the clutch pedal have anything to do with my problem. I think it's like an interlock switch like when you start the car clutch has to be depressed.
 
That switch just makes sure you can't engage the starter without pushing in on the clutch. It will have no effect on the clutch itself.

If you don't have any fluid leaks from the clutch hydraulic system, you could have a bad clutch master. They can leak internally and not work properly. I had this happen to my truck when it was still under warranty.

The only other thing I can think of, other than air in the system, is possibly a pilot bearing that is dragging.

I forgot, I have heard of the firewall, in the area that the master cylinder mounts, can crack resulting in the symptoms you describe.
 
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Hyd system

Would look further into the Hydraulics. Was anything else changed out or serviced along with the clutch disc change?
If bleeding the system doesn't work it may be time for master and slave combo change.
 
I forgot, I have heard of the firewall, in the area that the master cylinder mounts, can crack resulting in the symptoms you describe.

On 1994 and older vehicles. In 95 the pedal bracket was redesigned so that the master braces to the pedal bracket and not the firewall. You can cut that whole section of the firewall out on a 99 and as long as the bracket is still there the system will still work.
 
I was driving mine Saturday to the bank, backing up with a trailer and the clutch hydraulics failed. Stalled the truck and surprised the heck out of me.

130,000 miles on the original everything.

Here's all I did:

Pushed the clutch pedal to the floor and slipped my foot off, letting it pop fully up.
Repeat, repeat, repeat. It's been working fine ever since.


Took it all the way to Danville, VA to pick up a motorcyle, that same day.


Reminds me, I ought to check the fluid level, eh?
 
On 1994 and older vehicles. In 95 the pedal bracket was redesigned so that the master braces to the pedal bracket and not the firewall. You can cut that whole section of the firewall out on a 99 and as long as the bracket is still there the system will still work.

Good information and I will try to remember the date of redesign.
 
I was driving mine Saturday to the bank, backing up with a trailer and the clutch hydraulics failed. Stalled the truck and surprised the heck out of me.

130,000 miles on the original everything.

Here's all I did:

Pushed the clutch pedal to the floor and slipped my foot off, letting it pop fully up.
Repeat, repeat, repeat. It's been working fine ever since.


I did that same thing to improve the clutch action when my clutch master cylinder started going out. It eventually continued to get worse to the point it didn't help anymore. It was an intermittent problem and the Ford dealer could not find anything wrong with it the first time I took it in. I then waited until it started acting up and took it directly there. They were able to diagnose it then.

The first new master cylinder they installed was defective and they had to order another one.
 
OK researched problem further. Found Transmission fluid low so drained it and put new fluid in. But to continue with problem here is some more info. When you come to a stop and go to shift and you wait about 5-6 seconds it shifts ok. So it seems that the clutch is still spinning, so it has to stop and I can shift . I don't think the clutch is worn cause I shift to 5th at 25mph and it did not slip Rpm didn't go up). What would cause the clutch to not stop? Great problem. Really not familiar with hydrolics used to old cable style clutch. Is there a way to look at the clutch to see if it is worn, like brake rotors?
 
It sounds to me like the synchros in the transmission are worn for first gear. I used to do those kind of repairs (synchro and bearing replacement) when I was a mechanic many years ago. Now I try to avoid the work since i don't have a proper shop.
 

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