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Old 07-25-2013, 04:59 PM   #101
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Got started on radius arms.
Cut the old one down a bit

ground down a bit of the inside part of the ribs so that the tube would slide in.

and as commonly is done, slit down the center of the tube and slid the DOM over the end of the radius arm

gave a bit of radius and curvature on the end of the DOM to get it to sit cleanly on the wedge, and then tacked it up.

Tires only a 35, so you can see they aren't SUPER long.

Under the truck


Now I just need to do the other side, cycle it one more time, and then tack weld the link mounts and set it on the springs so I can get an idea of ride height.
When I go to weld the DOM to the old radius arm, should I stick weld it with 7018 because of the the Radius arm, or will I be safe to MIG weld it?
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Old 07-26-2013, 02:21 PM   #102
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Really like how this is turning out!
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Old 07-26-2013, 02:26 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhkonrad View Post
When I go to weld the DOM to the old radius arm, should I stick weld it with 7018 because of the the Radius arm, or will I be safe to MIG weld it?
Preheat the radius arm and mig it. Then wrap it in a heat blanket to slowly cool it.
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Old 07-27-2013, 12:10 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2004xlmiller View Post
Really like how this is turning out!
Thanks man! I feel like I am starting to be able to see the light at the end of the tunnel!

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Preheat the radius arm and mig it. Then wrap it in a heat blanket to slowly cool it.
Sounds like a plan.


Got the second radius arm tacked up and on

I moved the frame side trackbar mount forward because I was worried about it interfering with the coil and it helped give clearance for the diff/trackbar

it does contact the tie rod now, but oh well. I can always move the axle forward a little bit, but truthfully, I don't think there is anyway on this earth I am going to get the axle to suff that hard, nor am I going to get TREs to articulate that much at the pitman arm... So I am pretty happy with those clearances.



and radius arm clearance

Yes thats my old radius arm mount still welded to the frame. Im kinda lazy...
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Old 07-27-2013, 02:38 PM   #105
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Full bump on passenger side



limiting factor is engine crossmember (surprise surprise), and tranny cross member. I trimmed the crossmember a bit already, but looks like I will have to do more...
full bump for both sides

and clearances

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Old 07-27-2013, 10:25 PM   #106
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Sick! Almost there!
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Old 07-28-2013, 11:16 AM   #107
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im diggin the c bushings.
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Old 07-29-2013, 05:08 AM   #108
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Quote:
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Sick! Almost there!
Thanks! Getting close enough to taste! Just keep running into bunches of small stuff...

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im diggin the c bushings.
You talking the radius arm ones? Those are specially designed adjustable ones
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Old 07-30-2013, 12:54 AM   #109
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Way out of practice on my TIG...


Got alot better as I did a few...
trackbar welded up

Got it on its own weight. Kinda. Just jacks under the axle, but full weight on the springs none-the-less.

Drivers side spring has some spring bow, but not terrible. It will be even better with true wedge bushings in so it doesn't allow the radius arm and lower coil bucket to rotate

Passenger is terrible... that's even with a shim under the front of the coil

So my question is this. Passenger side coil bucket is super easy to move, while the drivers side would be less so. It is also my passenger side coil that has lots of bow, and would benefit most from having the bucket moved. Would it be terrible to move only one side? I don't see why it would, but...
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Old 07-30-2013, 12:56 AM   #110
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Oh and if anyone was wondering, the Wildhorse 5.5 rock crawler springs were about 17.5" with full weight on them. But that is un-broken in too.
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