coolant in the oil

gerry47c · 03-04-2008, 03:06 PM

hi
b-4000 mazda 1998
I found coolant in the oil (look like greennish color and the oil level is too high). I want to know if a chemical product can do a good temporary job.
As I know, the problem is a gasket problem or a crack in the block.
help needed
gerry47c

**MAKG** · 03-04-2008, 04:37 PM

Block sealer is quite unlikely to help and can make the repair more expensive (i.e., you may have to resurface the block, whereas this would otherwise not be necessary).

A cracked block is very unlikely unless you have substantially overheated it, or frozen coolant in the block. Cracked HEADS are considerably more likely. Before an overheat cracks the block, it's likely to scuff the cylinders, flatten the pistons, and seize the engine.

Running an engine with coolant in the oil will destroy it. Letting it SIT with coolant in the oil may destroy it. Crank and rod bearings don't like coolant.

**Sasquatch_Ryda** · 03-04-2008, 10:15 PM

Coolant in the oil will make a murkey whitish color in the oil, gasoline in the oil on the otherhand will look somewhat greenish/brown. Was the oil very thin?

03-04-2008, 03:06 PM	#1
gerry47c New Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Year: 1998 Make: mazda Model: b4000 Posts: 4 Rep Power: 0 iTrader: (0)	coolant in the oil hi b-4000 mazda 1998 I found coolant in the oil (look like greennish color and the oil level is too high). I want to know if a chemical product can do a good temporary job. As I know, the problem is a gasket problem or a crack in the block. help needed gerry47c
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03-04-2008, 04:37 PM	#2
MAKG RBV Technical Advisor Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: California central coast Year: 1991 Make: Ford Model: Explorer Engine: 4.0L Class: 4x4 Posts: 4,643 Rep Power: 21 iTrader: (0)	Block sealer is quite unlikely to help and can make the repair more expensive (i.e., you may have to resurface the block, whereas this would otherwise not be necessary). A cracked block is very unlikely unless you have substantially overheated it, or frozen coolant in the block. Cracked HEADS are considerably more likely. Before an overheat cracks the block, it's likely to scuff the cylinders, flatten the pistons, and seize the engine. Running an engine with coolant in the oil will destroy it. Letting it SIT with coolant in the oil may destroy it. Crank and rod bearings don't like coolant. __________________ 1990 VW Jetta GL, 1.8L 8V gasoline engine, manual transmission, painted in oxidized red paint and ponderosa pine sap, unknown mileage. 1991 Exploder, 4.0L, M5OD-R1 manual transmission, electronic BW1354 transfer case, 3.54 gears, 31 inch tires, icky two-tone blue paint with little clear coat, 230K miles. 1972 Chevy C-10, 250 I-6, SM465 (2WD) four-on-the-floor, 3.73 gears in a GM 12-bolt, puke green with a white cab. The "4 wheeled trash can," with x70K miles. x is probably 2.
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03-04-2008, 10:15 PM	#3
Sasquatch_Ryda Coast Mountain Crawlers Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Terrace, BC, Canada Year: 1991/1997/2008 Make: Ford Model: Ranger/Ranger/SuperDuty Engine: 4.0L/3.0L/6.4L Class: 4x4 Used For: Play toy/Daily Driver/Grocery Getter Posts: 7,470 Rep Power: 10 iTrader: (0)	Coolant in the oil will make a murkey whitish color in the oil, gasoline in the oil on the otherhand will look somewhat greenish/brown. Was the oil very thin? __________________ http://www.coastmountaincrawlers.com 1991 Ranger - one tons, 3 link, air shocks and 40's 1997 Ranger - reg cab flare side, 3.0L, M5OD-R1, 4x4, 4.56 gears, 6" lift, 33" MT's. 2008 F350 - 6.4L Powerstoke Diesel, 35x12.50R18 Procomp Xtreem AT's on 18x9 Incubus Crushers, AFE DPF/DOC Delete pipe, H&S XRT Pro tuner, AFE Stage 2 intake 1967 Mustang Coupe - 289, c4, pretty much stock
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