One Mean C10....

[RangerSVT]

Usually when you have a milky substance in the engine, its from a blown head gasket or cracked head. I was not aware of the Intakes prone to leaking coolant. Guess it shows I'm not familiar with gm engines

SVT

[Josh40601]

I thought the same thing as you brother. This is a whole new animal here. I'm learning though. Evidently, these engines have condensation that is very typical to find minimal amounts of water within the intake and throttle body. They have a catch can kit that eliminates this, which is the next thing on the upgrade list as long as the heads are ok

[dieseldane]

The intakes on these don't have any coolant passages in them, so that's not the issue... Even if they did, his oil isn't milky, so there's no coolant leaking into the crankcase, and the coolant would enter the intake long after the throttle body and just get sucked into the cylinder, far away from the trottle body.

EDIT: What I'm thinking is, if anything you might have an excessive amount of crankcase pressure due to bad rings or blown head gasket, blowing too much oil vapor through the PCV, mixed with condensation entering through the air intake, to give you that milky crap you're seeing.

I'd do a compression and leakdown test before anything else.

[Josh40601]

The pressure relief line running from the heads to the upper radiator hose was capped off, and I think was a large contributor to this.

Also remember the engine only has around 70-75k on it now. I bought it with 68k (or so they said. It was a company specializing in LS1 takeouts, so I don't see why they would lie. Especially considering what I paid for it)

[dieseldane]

Pressure relief line? Mind taking a pic of what's capped off/where it is and putting it up? Are we talking oil pressure relief? crankcase pressure? Not sure what you are describing but neither of those would be attached to any coolant hose. Might be able to help ya figure out if it's anything that will be causing your issue.

And although your motor might not have many miles on it, unfortunately doesn't mean they've been easy going miles.

[Josh40601]

Here are the pics.



This is the line that is capped off as you can see in the pic. It runs through the throttle body to actually heat up the air. You can bypass this, but the line it connects to via the rubber line shown, needs to be routed into the cooling system. this is where it attaches to the heads.



It's a crossover line that runs from the heads through the TB, into the radiator. Mine never ran to the radiator, so pressure would build right there backing coolant that should be going to the radiator into who knows where

[dieseldane]

Ok yeah that is a steam vent, and it does need to go somewhere.

Check out this link, posts #7 and #9:
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=168401

That does need to be fixed, but that isn't what's causing the extra oil in behind the throttle body. Like you said before, the moisture in there causing the oil to turn milky is just moisture being pulled in through the intake. The extra oil is from one of two things: simply just a bad PCV valve, or over-pressurization of the crankcase. The latter you could check to find the cause of by doing a leak down test, to make sure that the pressure isn't leaking past your rings, a blown head gasket, or a cracked head.

[Josh40601]

I have a hydrocarbon leak test kit here, but I can't use it until the truck can run. So I have to install the line before I can pressure test it.

Edit:

I also already have the line, just waiting on the adapter that goes in the radiator hose to button everything up.

Any idea where to get torque specs for valve cover and water pump bolts?

[dieseldane]

Anything to test your coolant system won't really do you any good, as it's not the problem.



The problem has nothing to do with your cooling system, or anything leaking into it.
EDIT: The pressure I am talking about is coming from within the combustion chamber, and leaking into an oil passage, or past the rings, not the coolant system.

I'll find ya some torque specs tonight.

[Robert_1967]

my friend has a 48 chevy truck that has a LS1 in it, those lines off the head need to go back in to the top of the rad, or somewhere near the top.




Robert




Posted from my Dell in the year 3015 and sent back in time.

[dieseldane]

Originally Posted by Robert_1967

my friend has a 48 chevy truck that has a LS1 in it, those lines off the head need to go back in to the top of the rad, or somewhere near the top.




Robert




Posted from my Dell in the year 3015 and sent back in time.

As long as they are vented anywhere into the coolant system higher than their mounting points on the heads, it's fine.

The purpose of those lines is this: since there are no coolant runners going across the intake manifold, the corners of the heads become the highest point of the coolant system within the engine itself. If it were not for those lines, air and steam would become trapped in the heads, which in turn would mean that no coolant could circulate at the very least where the air was, creating hot spots in the heads, and potentially warping them or worse, cracking them. So, it doesn't matter what you plumb that line to, be it the radiator, a heater hose, or your upper radiator hose, as long as it is higher than the head and allows the air to escape.

[Josh40601]

It's being ran to the upper radiator hose. I now know it shouldn't be capped.

Thanks to all you guys who are helping! Who knew you could get answers related to a Chevy on a hardcore Ford website?! It's ok. I only own 1 Chevy. And this is it. Best body style and best engine the Bowties ever made.