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Old 03-11-2011, 10:12 PM   #81
kris97ranger
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if you run the shackles the way slo-vo did up there with them going up towards the bed you can run a long shackle to get the most flex outta the spring and still keep the ride hight low
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Old 03-11-2011, 10:20 PM   #82
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if you run the shackles the way slo-vo did up there with them going up towards the bed you can run a long shackle to get the most flex outta the spring and still keep the ride hight low
Agreed. Maybe I should rephrase the question some.

Since I'm not planning on re-arching the springs, will the shackel flip/no flip really matter?
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Old 03-12-2011, 07:21 AM   #83
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If you flip the shackle, it will essentially lower it 3" and go right back to stock height. How much too high are you back there? If you were to make your own shackle mount, you could ultimately fine tune your ride height by dropping the shackle mount accordingly. Same goes for leaving it like the stock, unflipped way. You've got ~1" to play with that you can move the shackle mount up 'til it hits the bottom of the box. If any of this makes sense...
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Old 03-12-2011, 07:54 AM   #84
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If you flip the shackle, it will essentially lower it 3" and go right back to stock height.
Right, if I were to flip it, I'll make my own shackel mount to drop it where it needs to be (Might have to do that regardless).

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How much too high are you back there?
I was a wee bit tired last night, so I didn't get around to measuring anything

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If you were to make your own shackle mount, you could ultimately fine tune your ride height by dropping the shackle mount accordingly. Same goes for leaving it like the stock, unflipped way. You've got ~1" to play with that you can move the shackle mount up 'til it hits the bottom of the box. If any of this makes sense...
Yup, makes sense, and I'm not afraid to clearance the bed if need be.

So it goes back to is there any benefit articulation wise to flipping the rear shackle with the stock 63" pack?

In my mind I’m thinking it is worth flipping the shackle with the stock pack as it should get rid of the “jacking” that is inherit of the stock setup. This should help keep the body “flatter” as it flexes out.

Or am I ass backwards on this train of thought?


High jacking my own thread here for a second. I plan on replacing the clutch when I do the doubler (Seems as though the pilot bushing is going out, may as well get at it). And I read about a lot of slave failures. That said:

Who makes the best slave for these trucks? Is it worth the money to pony up and buy the ford part?

I recall finding a thread on the different slaves, but I’m having trouble finding it again. Any help here would be appreciated.


Thanks again for the comments and help guys!
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Old 03-12-2011, 10:22 AM   #85
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Don't take this wrong, but I love the back of your truck On a more serious note, do you recall approximately what your spring pads were set at (off of level) Or at least do you have an educated guess?
lol thanks man, i really couldnt tell you on the spring pads...i did it all by eyeball but i can get you a measurement here in a few

and as far as the 63's with a shackle flip you can deffinantly get the flatter when stuffing a tire, i really need to get some bump stops back there to keep it from going too far

i am happy with the shackle flip but there is no possible way to do the flip and keep the eye's level....do to so on a ranger your rear hanger would be over a foot below the frame and you would end up with a ton of lift

i know in this picture the rear leaf is completely flat


and a few more that will give you an idea of things




hope that helped ya a little
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Old 03-12-2011, 12:21 PM   #86
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Flip the shackle and make a dropped mount, you're right, it helps.

Far as clutch business, what I would honestly do (and this is just me...) is replace the whole shebang to a pre-'93 clutch. The '93+ slave is all plastic and known for leaking, whereas the the pre-'93 is a metal body. I also like the feel of the pre-'93 clutch better. But if you change it, you have to change the master, line, and slave, so it's best to try and find you a whole good setup in the JY.
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Old 03-12-2011, 01:59 PM   #87
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lol thanks man, i really couldnt tell you on the spring pads...i did it all by eyeball but i can get you a measurement here in a few
Thanks, that would help me sleep better.

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...and as far as the 63's with a shackle flip you can deffinantly get the flatter when stuffing a tire, i really need to get some bump stops back there to keep it from going too far...
This still doesn't quite make sense in my head, but I've seen enough examples of it that I don't doubt it.

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i am happy with the shackle flip but there is no possible way to do the flip and keep the eye's level....do to so on a ranger your rear hanger would be over a foot below the frame and you would end up with a ton of lift...(Pulled photos)...hope that helped ya a little
That helped out alot, thanks!

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Flip the shackle and make a dropped mount, you're right, it helps.
I'm starting to become a believer

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...Far as clutch business, what I would honestly do (and this is just me...) is replace the whole shebang to a pre-'93 clutch. The '93+ slave is all plastic and known for leaking, whereas the the pre-'93 is a metal body. I also like the feel of the pre-'93 clutch better. But if you change it, you have to change the master, line, and slave, so it's best to try and find you a whole good setup in the JY.
I didn't even know that was an option, and I see what you're talking about with the plastic vs. metal issue. I'd really like to get away from the internal slave all together, but that doesn't seem to be an option.

Bone yards don't usually have much 'fun' stuff around here, so I'm probably out of luck finding the master and correct line out here. It'd have to be a new purchase.


Back to the springs, I should have an update on the mock up tomorrow. I think I've got a handle on it at this point.

Thanks again guys!
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Old 03-12-2011, 02:19 PM   #88
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I like it, great work so far!


When I mounted my springs the 'factory' way, I had the same issue with the cab mount and spring mount. I ended up making a new crossmemeber with a cab mount built in(I can find a picture if you would like) Which gave me room for the spring hanger.

Now spring under the frame, I have a different frame, regular cab long box frame, but when I mounted my springs, with the stock shackle and no block I netted about 4" to 5" of lift, my best guess.

I will have my truck done tomorrow with pictures if you wanna have a look at that too.
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Old 03-12-2011, 02:37 PM   #89
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Thanks, that would help me sleep better.
now that i think about it some, at first i had them setup to the same as the stock expo pads under the axle but it wasnt quite enough so before i welded them in i pulled the pinion up maybe 5 degree's to get my double cardon shaft set like its suposed to....and i couldnt find my angle finder to give you an exact measurement


here is where i first setup my rear 63's from...

http://therangerstation.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=28793

i also had mine arched the same, but had to throw in the second leaf from a stock ranger pack because they sagged a little
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Old 03-12-2011, 08:17 PM   #90
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I like it, great work so far!
Thanks!

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When I mounted my springs the 'factory' way, I had the same issue with the cab mount and spring mount. I ended up making a new crossmemeber with a cab mount built in(I can find a picture if you would like) Which gave me room for the spring hanger.

Now spring under the frame, I have a different frame, regular cab long box frame, but when I mounted my springs, with the stock shackle and no block I netted about 4" to 5" of lift, my best guess.

I will have my truck done tomorrow with pictures if you wanna have a look at that too.
I wound up going a different route than you after all, but keep your build thread updated, I like seeing that trucks progress

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now that i think about it some, at first i had them setup to the same as the stock expo pads under the axle but it wasnt quite enough so before i welded them in i pulled the pinion up maybe 5 degree's to get my double cardon shaft set like its suposed to
Thanks for the insight!

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....and i couldnt find my angle finder to give you an exact measurement
So many smart ass remarks come to mind but I'll let them slide (My garage looks to be just about as organized as yours, so I dont' really have any room to poke fun )


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Originally Posted by 86 slo-vo View Post
...here is where i first setup my rear 63's from...

http://therangerstation.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=28793

i also had mine arched the same, but had to throw in the second leaf from a stock ranger pack because they sagged a little
Thanks that thread had alot more photos than what I was finding elsewhere.

Quick update for today (I'll grab more photos tomorrow and throw out alittle more information).

It appears that I was worried for no reason, once I had some weight ont he springs, the spring pads leveled out enough to make me happy with the angle they were sitting at.

Everything else went out the window though. I wound up mounting the front of the springs like this (further foward than I thought it would be):


Then I put a piece of C channel under the frame to support the rear springs (where the shackels will go):


Somehow everything worked out. It looks like I'm not going to be able to do a shackel flip at this time (no time/budget to get the leaf's re-arched). The rear shackel needs to be about 7" long, so that makes life stupid easy for getting the shackel done.

Nothing is burned in at this point, but I'm fairly happy with it so it may stay like it is.


The help/advice has been greatly apperciated guys! Thanks!
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