Engine Codes and poopy running

Josh40601 · Dec 9, 2015

So engine codes and running like shit usually go together, but here is what I have coming up.

I spoke to the tuner yesterday and he basically said, "with a stock motor, stock MAF, stock ECU, it should run fine."

Well, it doesn't. still does that stupid "camming" shitty idle crap after it warms up. When it is cold outside, it won't even try to start. all the lights come on the dash, but turn the key and nothing. pull it in the heated garage, and after 5 minutes, it fires right up. He did say to bring it to his shop after we get it painted to get a custom tune for the truck, but I'd like to try and figure out what is causing these issues 1st.

Here is a list of all the codes:

P0708 - NSS/Transmission Range Selector
P0443 - EVAP Circuit
P0453 - EVAP Circuit
P0135 - O2 bank 1, Sensor 1
P0141 - O2 Bank 1, sensor 2
P0155 - 02 bank 2, sensor 1
P0161 - 02 behind cat
P1451 - EVAP Circuit

o2 sensor codes are self explanatory, but the rest, I am at a lost. I am going to research and edit the post today to see what possible causes are out there.

Anyone of you all running the v8 have these pop up?

** Adding this from another forum to check before replacing O2 sensors

Do you have an owners manual, if so look in the under hood fuse distribution box & check 15 amp fuse mini fuse position 13. Its for the O2 sensor heater circuit & about 4 other things. Make sure the fuse is good & its socket is corrosion free & snug fitting. While you have the fuse out, at KOEO check for B+ voltage with your multi-meter set on the 20 volt DC range to make sure you have battery voltage that far. If so, check for B+ at the O2 sensor electrical connector & KOEO. If no voltage there, you have an open circuit in the B+ O2 sensor heater wire between the fuse & O2 sensor electrical connector. So look for rust, corrosion at the O2 sensor electrical connector pin/socket, or signs of a pinched or cut wire or damaged insulation. Look any place the wire touches something that moves, vibrates & or is hot. Do a wiggle test at the O2 sensor end to see if you have broken wire strands under the insulation.

Jbrown1238 · Dec 9, 2015

Josh40601 said:
So engine codes and running like shit usually go together, but here is what I have coming up.

I spoke to the tuner yesterday and he basically said, "with a stock motor, stock MAF, stock ECU, it should run fine."

Well, it doesn't. still does that stupid "camming" shitty idle crap after it warms up. When it is cold outside, it won't even try to start. all the lights come on the dash, but turn the key and nothing. pull it in the heated garage, and after 5 minutes, it fires right up. He did say to bring it to his shop after we get it painted to get a custom tune for the truck, but I'd like to try and figure out what is causing these issues 1st.

Here is a list of all the codes:

P0708 - NSS/Transmission Range Selector
P0443 - EVAP Circuit
P0453 - EVAP Circuit
P0135 - O2 bank 1, Sensor 1
P0141 - O2 Bank 1, sensor 2
P0155 - 02 bank 2, sensor 1
P0161 - 02 behind cat
P1451 - EVAP Circuit

o2 sensor codes are self explanatory, but the rest, I am at a lost. I am going to research and edit the post today to see what possible causes are out there.

Anyone of you all running the v8 have these pop up?

** Adding this from another forum to check before replacing O2 sensors

Do you have an owners manual, if so look in the under hood fuse distribution box & check 15 amp fuse mini fuse position 13. Its for the O2 sensor heater circuit & about 4 other things. Make sure the fuse is good & its socket is corrosion free & snug fitting. While you have the fuse out, at KOEO check for B+ voltage with your multi-meter set on the 20 volt DC range to make sure you have battery voltage that far. If so, check for B+ at the O2 sensor electrical connector & KOEO. If no voltage there, you have an open circuit in the B+ O2 sensor heater wire between the fuse & O2 sensor electrical connector. So look for rust, corrosion at the O2 sensor electrical connector pin/socket, or signs of a pinched or cut wire or damaged insulation. Look any place the wire touches something that moves, vibrates & or is hot. Do a wiggle test at the O2 sensor end to see if you have broken wire strands under the insulation.

I will keeping watching as others post responses. The "shitty" running after it warms up is probably a lot to do with the O2 codes. I would get those sorted out first. Check continuity from each of the O2 plug pins to the appropriate matching pin on the ECM harness. Chances are there is a problem along the path. Check to make sure the right plug is plug inTo the correct location if you are using front and rear O2 sensors. They are easy to get plugged in incorrectly. If not then swap out the sensors.

The range selector is auto trans related and can be sorted out a little further down the road.

Not sure about EVAP circuit. That would take a little research.

Keep plugging away at it. I had more codes then that and managed to get rid of them one by one!

Josh40601 · Dec 10, 2015

from what I found over on EF, the EVAP circuit can cause the O2 sensor codes, especially if you don't have the EVAP system plugged in. I don't have any EVAP stuff on the truck, so I need to see if Lee can delete this system from the ECU. I think with that, the truck will run like a million bucks.

RonD · Dec 10, 2015

Which site is "EF"?
Would like to read about that connection

Having a hard time seeing a link between gas tank pressure(EVAP) and O2 sensor heater malfunctions.

Your O2 sensor codes are all Heater circuit so yes check that the fuse is good.
O2 sensors have 4 wires, 2 are for sending 0.1volt to 0.9volt to computer, for oxygen levels in exhaust
2 are for the heater circuit, O2 sensors must be above 600degF to work.

The fact all three O2s are showing heater circuit problem means there is a common issue which would probably be the fuse.
Computer monitors the power in this heater circuit, this is why you are getting the codes, but computer still uses O2 sensor data once engine is warmed up(closed loop), which in my opinion is wrong, lol, it should stay in Open Loop, but it does use the data and engine will not run well most of the time.
From your post I surmise that it runs OK in Open Loop(cold engine, using Factory air/fuel mix) but starts to run poorly in Closed Loop(using O2 sensor air/fuel mix)

O2 sensors not at a high enough temp will cause "shitty" running.
Fix the heater circuit and all will be well.

What year is the V8 and what year is the computer running it?

Josh40601 · Dec 10, 2015

there is the man I was waiting for!

EF is Explorer Forum. I was reading that the EVAP and the O2s are on the same fuse, that's the blurb I posted in the original post. So that makes me think if the EVAP is acting a fool, because it does not exist, that would cause the error, but the more I think about it, that would just throw the code. The only thing that could/would cause all 5 codes to be present would be the fuse, or the wiring associated with that fuse

The way you are describing it, is exactly what the truck is doing. Cold engine, runs fine. Soon as it warms up, idles very bad and will eventually die, and not start back until it cools off.

Engine is from a 97 explorer, 97 Explorer ECU.

Engine Codes and poopy running

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