Random v-8 swap questions

BronKitis · Feb 14, 2014

OK, I am planning to run a carb'd 351. I know the frame mounted pump is too much but will the tank pump suffice? I mean if I delete the HP pump? If not, manual pump to return lines; would this mean I could leave pump in the tank?

Also, could someone please post part numbers for correct Mustang motor mounts?

Read that factory A/C heater housing is larger than non A/C rigs. If this is true, will mods still work IE heat gun treatment or will I need to replace the box for mods?

1985 Bronco 351- Is this the duraspark II Ignition system or something else? Be nice to plug and play the system into factory harness.

Thanks for all the help!

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BronKitis · Feb 15, 2014

Bump.

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Fant · Feb 15, 2014

Ive heard of ppl running ur pumps u have with a fuel pressure regulator. Personally. Id buy a small electric pump. Mount it on the frame. Get one at napa for 50 bucks. Ul need to do away with inside tank pump and hp pump goin this route. And if im not mistaken ul still need to hook up ur fuel return line back to tank if urs has one. The heater box in an ac rig is larger than a non ac rig frm what ive read. U could heat gun and mash it in or cut it out and patch it up as i did. On ur mounts. Just do search on ford ranger 302 or 351 motor mounts. I dnt knw much on 351 as my truck has 302. James duff. Jegs. Summit racing. All carry motor mounts. Or use ur stock mount and cut plate that bolts to motor and drill hole where needed on original mount. Good luck. Hope that helpd sme

RonD · Feb 15, 2014

The in tank pump was used for the Ranger carbed engines, so should be OK, issue would be whether it had enough to hold pressure for a V8 at highway speeds.

There are a few manufacturers of add-on fuel pressure regulators(FRP) with return line, these are adjustable, usually from 4 to 10psi.
This could be used with the existing HP pump and current return line.

Hagan · Feb 15, 2014

BronKitis said:
Also, could someone please post part numbers for correct Mustang motor mounts?

Read that factory A/C heater housing is larger than non A/C rigs. If this is true, will mods still work IE heat gun treatment or will I need to replace the box for mods?

Mustang motor mounts are not bolt on. If you really want to use them you have to drill a hole in the frame and slot the holes down so the engine can slide down.

The a/c box is huge. I removed mine and installed a non a/c box. It was well worth the time. I'm pretty sure you wont be able to make the 351 fit with the factory a/c box.

bobbywalter · Feb 15, 2014

351 fits with ac box. just more clearance on the box.

the factory mounts are slotted sometimes too.

BronKitis · Feb 17, 2014

Nice! Thanks for all the great info! As for fuel, my plan is to retain the in tank pump and use it as a lifter to the manual pump on the motor and simply delete the HP pump with an extra filter. Not sure if it'll work but it's worth a shot.

I did not know the Mustang mounts weren't bolt in.... Guess I'll try my hand at building the modified ones since $200 is a little ridiculous in my book.

I'll have to get a better look at the heater box to see if I can indeed modify it since I won't be needing A/C.

How about factory alternator? Donor has one with external regulator. Should I tear apart factory harness to wire donor alternator or get the proper bracket for 2.9 alternator?

How about opinions on a body lift?
Radiator? I know that the 90-94 ex rads work, but which one will work for the V8? Also, since I'm running C6, will the "factory" tranny cooler work or will an aftermarket be up my alley?

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85_Ranger4x4 · Feb 17, 2014

RonD said:
The in tank pump was used for the Ranger carbed engines, so should be OK, issue would be whether it had enough to hold pressure for a V8 at highway speeds.

I can't speak for the four cylinders but the 2.8's used an engine driven pump on the side of the engine.

BronKitis · Feb 17, 2014

bobbywalter said:
351 fits with ac box. just more clearance on the box.

the factory mounts are slotted sometimes too.

Any idea as to which mounts were slotted? Hard to envision what needs to be done without seeing it, ya know?

How about building your own? I believe I'll need the motor to sit as low as possible in the chassis for C6 clearance- what are my best options?

BronKitis · Feb 18, 2014

Match made in heaven, don't you guys think?

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bobbywalter · Mar 3, 2014

BronKitis said:
Any idea as to which mounts were slotted? Hard to envision what needs to be done without seeing it, ya know?

How about building your own? I believe I'll need the motor to sit as low as possible in the chassis for C6 clearance- what are my best options?

the k member side is slotted.....the vert mounts are hard to get in without the slots....where they live though in a stang its slotted...so mimic the intended application.

i used studs on my block with nylocks and leave the mounts loose in the k member once i am setup. easy to do with the clip removed.

if that bronco is in good shape....i am sad for the bronco.

but happy for the rbv

BronKitis · Mar 5, 2014

It was in pretty good shape :-( But, I gave it a good home! Even got all my money back out of it! Sold it to a gentleman who is restoring his Dad's 85' Bronco he bought brand new. So, good things came of it.

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