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2003 2.3L High Idle


kschaffner

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2003
Make / Model
Ford
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Automatic
Hey everyone,

So I got an oil change last week and since that day I noticed my idle seems to be really high. I checked first to see if the air filter box was closed all the way since they seem to always mess that up and sure enough it wasn't. Putting it back on correctly didn't change the idle at all and neither did resetting the ECM via taking the Neg battery terminal off for about 3 hours. When I slow down to go over speed bumps it feels as if the truck is still getting power and I have to push the brake in pretty good to go over them smoothly. While in park I get 1100-1250 RPM idle with the A/C off, with the A/C on It is about 1k. I've checked the TPS and I get about .88v at idle position and 4.5 at WOT. I've OHM tested the IAC and it read 0.00, I've read that this should be more than 10k and other places say 0.00 is good so I'm kinda lost here. When I unplug the IAC and turn the truck on I get about a 600RPM idle that is kinda rough but as soon as I plug the IAC back in a restart the truck it's right back to 1200. Also I've noted when I rev up the motor in park it will hang at where I lift off for a second, fall to 1500rpm for a second and then fall to 1200.

TLDR:1200 idle at park ac/-off; 1000 a/c-on, .88v-4.5v TPS, 0.00 Ohm IAC, reset ECM via battery disconnect no go
 


lemmy999

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Manual
I am having very similar issues with mine. Did you ever find a solution?

My manual says IAC solenoid resistance should be between 6 and 13 ohms.
 

Tractorman86

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2004
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Just pull the iac solenoid out and clean it with a can of brake clean and reinstall that's what always does it for me at least
 

macx

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1993
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Ford
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I'm having the same problem, same symptoms.

93

Thing is, I've got a new IAC and new TPS (not adjustable on a 93)
within 250 miles or so, and recently cleaned the EGR and have no
vacuum to the EGR at idle.

Also have closely checked vac lines, no leaks I can find, and has decent
and steady vacuum, and decent and fairly even compression.

Will take a look tonite and make sure the IAC hasn't come loose a little,
take another look at vacuum leaks around the intake, and maybe set
the manual idle screw down a mite.

Been working on this thing since I bought it a few months ago, FINALLY
got it running good, now this.

Here's all that's new: ECT, IAT, IAC, TPS, ICM, CPK, ECU, 02 sensor, primary
coil, injectors, fp regulator, thermostat. They were installed one or two at a time
over a couple months. Just got rid of my last code (224) and the tach finally
ready right after the new ICM, CPK and ECU by switching out the secondary coil.
Also checked the PCV, it's free.

It needed all those things - when I started I had a looooong list of codes,
including nearly all of those items. Previous owner has messed with it and
screwed up mostly everything he touched. I did the injectors and fp regulator
and 02 sensor mostly cuz of the miles. Everything I replaced helped, finally
took the CPK and ECU shortly after the ICM (which had tested bad).
Funny thing, it didn't used to idle high until after replacing the bad secondary
coil which stopped the check engine light and got rid of 224 code, didn't
idle high after the CPK, ICM & ECU.

I'll post anything I find or anything that I discover that fixes this.

EDIT: Well, went out and took a look. Still didn't see any vac leak possibilities.
(But, wouldn't extra air coming into the engine that doesn't go thru the mass air
sensor lean it out and slow it down instead of speeding it up?)

Anyway, while idling, tried disconnecting the IAC, no change (maybe a clue, altho
brand new?). Then tried disconnecting the tps, no change.

Then turned the manual idle screw down some, with engine running, no change.
Shut the engine off, restarted. Idled down fine about 650 but after maybe 10 seconds
it climbed back up to 1200+.

Now I'm stumped.
 
Last edited:

Ray V

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2003
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Mazda
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Did anyone find a solution for your problems? I am helping a friend with his 2003 B2300 with similar problems. The vehicle has both an ECT and CHT sensors, and there is contrary information on the net about this. I measured the ECT and got a reading of around 2.2K at room temp. I thought that it should be around 25k so I replaced it. Now the temp gauge on the instrument cluster is not working.

The funny thing on this vehicle is that the ignition remains far advanced while the engine is idling high. As soon as the idle comes back down, the advance drops back to around 2 degrees.

Anybody?
 

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