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10'' drum to 9'' swap??


troymn

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Hello. I am getting an 8.8 with 10'' drums. I have a 7.5 with 9'' drums currently. All the brake stuff including parking brake cables were just replaced in the 9'' set up. My question is does anyone know for certain if I can swap it (including the backing plates) directly over to the 8.8? Thanks!!
 
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adsm08

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I think the better question is what is the point of swapping axles then.

The 28-spline 8.8 and the 7.5 have the same weaknesses and load ratings. The only real advantage of the 28-spline 8.8 over a 7.5 is the bigger brakes.
 

troymn

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I'm getting one with limited slip.
 

Mark_88

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Putting 9" brake parts on a 10" brake system won't work...even the brake cylinders are different from what I recall of parts ordering.

If you have the space, why not just swap the axel and try to sell the 7.5 with all the new parts...you might recoup some of the cost by doing that.
 

Captain Ledd

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Technically I believe you could, if you also swapped the backing plates over. The 11" backing plates from F150's swapped over to my Explorer 8.8 (I didn't run them, I had the axle shafts out and was curious. for strictly the backing plate it mounted up fine)

But I must stress keeping the 10" brakes. They are SO much better than the 9" ones. You WILL notice a difference in stopping power.

I went from 9" to 10" on my 8.8, but I ordered new parking brake cables as well because mine were shot. Everything else worked fine.

I know you just went through the 9" parts, but please consider keeping the 10" stuff.
 

don4331

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Cpt. I'm surprised that you noticed big difference between 9 & 10" brakes...

My case: Ranger A with 9" is RC/SB with manual, while Ranger B with 10" is RC/LB with auto. And Ranger A stops better with clutch in, than Ranger B which I leave in drive. (Ranger A is actually heavier as it has bed liner and a/c, same engines).

Note: Ranger C with V-6 Mustang rear discs actually stops the worst even with premium pads & rotors. Biggest waste of time and money I have done with one of my Rangers.

(And yes, I have too many RBVs - comes with 2 teenage kids of my own, 2 teenage nieces, brother-in-law and me all wanting cheap transportation).

Back to problem at hand. If troymn wants to go to the effort of removing the differential cover, removing the axles, then he can unbolt the 9'' brakes from his 7.5" differential. Then repeating with the 8.8" will allow him to swap axles without having to bleed the brakes assuming he has unclipped the brake lines. Then he can bolt the existing brakes to the new housing, reinstall the axle, fill with fluids and be good to go. And at the end, he will have an 8.8" differential with limited slip and 9" drums.

I do agree with Cpt. keep the 10" stuff around and when the 9" wears out, swap back to the bigger stuff.
 

Shran

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Note: Ranger C with V-6 Mustang rear discs actually stops the worst even with premium pads & rotors. Biggest waste of time and money I have done with one of my Rangers.
Your master cylinder is not proportioned correctly for rear disc brakes. I have an Explorer 8.8 with discs in my truck and judging from the wear on the rotors, or lack thereof, the fronts are doing about 98% of the work. The truck stops just fine but would be a lot better with the correct master cylinder...an issue that is high up on my list. I bet it would help in your situation as well.
 

troymn

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Thanks for the input!
 

don4331

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Shran:

I was going to say similar things about Captain's set up :) His 10" rear is biased to rear but that carries risks.

Ranger C has a proportioning valve so all 4 lock up at same time empty (and it isn't loaded much). It just takes 50% more force on the pedal to get there, and as a result, 'feel' isn't there. Biasing it more rear (better loaded), takes even more effort and makes me nervous about rear locking if the RABS fails. Factory set up locks the front's a little before the rear. (My wife wanted to be ensured that I wasn't going to kill her oldest child with the "upgrade" so whole set of tests done in Walmart parking lot early on Sunday mornings to demonstrate it was safe. Note: RABS disabled for all tests).

Ranger C stops good, has the 'bling' of discs, but eats pads to if you use the parking brake regularly, so Mustang rear disc just weren't worth the effort for me. Your results may differ...
 

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I don't think that disc brakes were really even a worthwhile upgrade for me and if I would have had a drum brake 8.8, I would have gladly used it. The brakes went from decent to kinda soft. Offroad it is no big deal but I am concerned about heating up the fronts on the highway when I'm out in the hills and it is definitely a little weird on snow or ice. Just something to fix eventually I guess, I will run across an Explorer master cylinder sooner or later.
 

Captain Ledd

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I don't know what to tell you guys lol. When I had the 9" drums only very occasionally did I feel the ABS kick in, usually only when it was really slippery out after a fresh snowstorm. With the 10" drums I feel that ABS kicking in all the time, and it stops way shorter than it did before. I also put the Aerostar drums on it, but I doubt that really makes much of a difference in day-to-day empty driving.

Obviously they're an inch larger but they're also nearly 2X as wide, that can handle taking quite a bit more energy out of a system.
 

troymn

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If i do keep the 10'' drums will the parking brake cables on the 8.8 hook up under the cab the same as the old 9''?
 

Mark_88

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Yes...if you are not changing the length of the drive train then they will fit.

The only other thing you need to check is that the connector balls at both ends of the cable are the same or will work with the shoes/cable connector. Parts from a 96 Ranger will be the proper length regardless...even the rear cables should be the same length as the front cable makes up the difference between Extended and Regular cabs.

I know the 96 had a slightly different way of connecting the two cables to the front cable (than an 88) but didn't get to check the end that goes into the shoe inside the drum.

Pulling them apart to check compatibility might be the only way you can confirm that...other than having the parts in your hand and comparing them side by side.
 

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I will tell you right now I would keep the brakes that came with the new rear end before I would pull the axles to change the backing plates.
 

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