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2000 ranger P0153 P0133 Drive into lake and report it stolen?


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I have codes p0153 p0133 and I just want to drive this F truck into a lake and report it stolen.




Well, ok seriously.

I have a 2000 ranger with 70K miles. 4.0 Litre 6 cylinder automatic.

I know there are hundreds of threads about these codes but hopefully I can give clues as to what needs to be done before throwing money at parts and wasting time. This truck is a complete disgrace of rust underneath it, often requiring 5 hours of work to get one bolt off because the head chips off as rust flakes and needs grinding into a square and blowtorching etc...







I don't remember if I bought it with the check engine light on or off but it's been on for a couple years since I've had the truck and my inspection was due 2 months ago. I thought my harbor freight code reader could just delete the codes and then I'll pass inspection but it's not possible to trick their computer like that.



I originally had codes:
P1451 Evap Emessions Ctrl system vent Ctrl Cir
P0133 02 sensor Circuit Slow response bank 1 sensor 1
P0153 02 sensor circuit slow response bank 2 sensor 1
P0171 system too lean bank 1
P0174 System too lean bank 2
And no Pending codes.



My plan was to bring it to a shop and have them charge me their $89 an hour for just 1 hour to show me what needs to be done and then I'd go on youtube and figure out how to do the work myself. The mechanic had me sitting 2 hours after our set appointment and said come back another time, sorry too busy. So I went online to try and fix this myself.




For the System Too Lean codes: I cleaned my MAF sensor with electronics cleaner and neither of those lean codes have come back and it's been driven about 20 hours over a couple weeks and the codes have been reset many times since then but no Lean codes have come back. Also, the p0153 p0133 were gone after cleaning the MAF sensor. The only code left was the Evap P1451.





I replaced my rusted fuel filler neck in hopes to fix Evap P1451 but just doing that didn't stop the code from coming back. Also about 10 days later and plenty of driving, the code P0133 came back and pending was P0153.



Yesterday, I replaced the Vapor canister solenoid on the charcoal canister (had a dead reading on a multimeter), and the evap code has not come back. I cleared codes and drove about 30 mins and turned engine on and off and drove etc and all codes were gone! usually they would have come back by then. So I took it today to the inspection station and failed because System Not Ready (because I cleared the codes too recently apparently. The check engine light was still off as I was leaving and then 20 mins later my eyes pop out of my head because the light comes back on and I have p0153 p0133 back on the scanner.



So, Do I just replace the upstream 02 sensors? I'm very tempted to just buy these for $20 on ebay. Worst case scenario is if I can prove they are faulty I can get a refund. The wiring looks fine.



I read it could also be and exhaust or exhaust manifold leak or vacuum leak. Or need a tune, whatever tune is, Tune up? New spark plugs?



I did inspect the whole line from the cat to the tail pipe and didn't see any leaks but I didn't check fully yetl, and also I saw a video on youtube he plugs the tail pipe with a rag and this will make an exhaust leak more apparent if there is one.





I really don't want to take the exhaust manifold apart and all the gaskets etc and inspect for leaks if there even are any. Just replacing the two 02 sensors I am thinking to try first but even that will be a nightmare I'm sure they're rusted on so bad, and the location is difficult to get to.



I only noticed this in winter/cold, when I would come to my first stop light about 5 mins from home, it would have a bad idle and every now and then it would actually stall, so maybe this is a symptom of what needs to be addressed (if it wasn't the MAF sensor leanness that I just fixed though). Other than that, it feels like it drives brand new. I can't tell if my gas mileage is good or bad - some people mention that in hopes to diagnose for these codes.



Any help greatly appreciated.



From a website:



P0153
•Check and fix any exhaust leaks
•Check for wiring problems (shorted, frayed wires)
•Check the frequency and amplitude of the oxygen sensor (advanced)
•Check for a deteriorating / contaminated oxygen sensor, replace if necessary
•Check for inlet air leaks
•Check the MAF sensor for proper operation
•Replace the Bank 2 oxygen sensor upstream of the catalytic converter





What causes the P0133 code?
•A faulty O2 Sensor
•A leaking exhaust manifold
•An engine vacuum leak
•An open or short in the wiring of the O2 sensor
•Soot or oil buildup on the O2 sensor (excessive buildup will clog the ports the sensor uses to measure the air fuel ratio)
•A dirty mass air flow sensor
•Incorrect fuel pressure

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p0133-obd-ii-trouble-code-o2-sensor-circuit-slow-response-bank-1-sensor-1-by-blake-griffin











I have this reader in case it can diagnose further with live data?

http://www.harborfreight.com/obd-ii-can-professional-scan-tool-60694.html
 


RonD

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Welcome to TRS :)

Engine codes are helpful but you have to remember the codes are being generated by a calculator, because we call it a computer we tend to thing of it as "smarter" that it really is.
This is why the codes have so many "possible" explanations.

But no matter how many electronic devices are added to a gas engine it is still just an air pump, self powered by adding fuel.

Just for clarification
Bank 1 is passenger side of engine
Bank 2 is drivers side
O2 Sensor 1 is upstream(exhaust manifold pipe), there are two of these on a V engine
O2 sensor 2 is downstream(after Cat converter), there can be one or two of these

So Bank 2 sensor 1 is drivers side upstream O2 sensor
Bank 1 sensor 2 would be downstream O2 sensor, passenger side IF there are two of these


To test for a vacuum leak
Engine needs to be warmed up to operating temp and idling
Unplug the IAC(idle air control) Valve
IAC Valve will close and idle should drop down to 500rpm or engine may even stall, either is good, it means no vacuum leaks in intake system.

If idle stays above 700 then there is a leak.

16 years is old for O2 sensors but 70k miles are not.
And to have BOTH upstream O2 sensors fail at the same time would be very very very unlikely.
But.........good and working upstream O2 sensors save you money in fuel/MPG, so pay for themselves if you have noticed a drop in MPG over the last year or so.
Expected life for an upstream O2 sensor is 100k, but a problem with an engine like running rich for awhile shortens their life, they get a carbon coating inside the sensor.
Downstream O2 sensors last alot longer, they "see" cleaner exhaust after Cat converter so it takes longer for chemicals to be depleted.


O2 sensors "see" oxygen in the exhaust, too much is Lean, too little is Rich
O2 sensors generate their own voltage via a chemical reaction inside, but it is under 1 volt, .1 volt is Lean, .9 volt is Rich.
The computer is constantly adjusting the fuel mix, to keep O2 voltage at about .45
O2 voltage changes very fast as this happens, as O2 sensor chemicals are depleted they start to change voltage slower.

O2 sensors can't work until they are heated up to above 650degF
Computer ignores O2 sensors on start up, and checks ECT(engine coolant temp) sensor, to see if this is a cold start or warm restart.
I would check the reading on the ECT sensor when engine is cold, and a few times while engine warms up, should be above 180degF warmed up, and outside air temp when cold, i.e. 75degF whatever it is at your location.

If ECT sensor is telling computer engine is warmer that it is on a cold start then computer would start using O2 sensors before they are working well, they would be "switching voltage slowly", so you get codes.

An exhaust leak between head and upstream O2 sensor will suck in air, O2 "sees" the oxygen in that air, so will give a false high oxygen level, but for BOTH O2 sensors to respond that way BOTH sides of the V6 engine would have to have exhaust leaks at the manifold.............not likely.

An exhaust leak from upstream O2 to tail pipe wouldn't effect upstream O2 sensors

So I doubt an exhaust leak.


One other thing to check is the Air Tube from MAF sensor to upper intake, this can crack and unmetered air can be sucked in bypassing the MAF sensor, this would usually cause Lean codes not current codes.
 
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adsm08

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IME slow switch codes are almost always the sensor itself getting weak. Its is about the only part of the circuit that has any middle ground between broke and not broke.
 
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I think I have only three total o2 sensors. Maybe there is 4. From what I can tell, there's two right past the motor and before the cat, one of those on each side sort of behind the front wheels, and then there might only be one after the cat (but possibly two, I'm not positive). I believe the codes mean I only have to change the front ones because it says sensor 1 and not sensor 2.

If I buy good quality, I google 2000 Ranger oxygen sensor bosch or denso and some are apparently the same $25 cost as the ebay ones but some are like $45. That's fine with me to spend $45, I thought the good ones were like $75. I think I'll just change the faulty ones for now.


Can someone link which ones I should get and which one goes in the front driver and the passenger side?

Actually RonD posted which o2 is in which location.
P0133 bank 1 sensor 1
P0153 bank 2 sensor 1

P0133 I need to bank 1 sensor 1 which is the front (before the cat) and on the passengerside.

P0153 I need to change front (before cat) on the driver side?

Ron might have typo'd saying:
So Bank 2 sensor 1 is passenger side upstream O2 sensor
Bank 1 sensor 2 would be downstream O2 sensor, passenger side IF there are two of these


you mean bank 2 is Driver side, right?











I posted this on 3 other forums in case their replies can help. someone else also suggested to just change the 02 sensor. I think I will try that after some of the easier things ronD posted (THANKS!).


http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1444896-code-p0153-p0133-2000-ranger-just-report-it-as-stolen.html

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/4-0-sohc-4-0-ohv-tech/137612-2000-ranger-p0133-p0153-drive-lake-report-stolen.html?
 
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RonD

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Yes, was a mistake, I changed it.

Dual exhaust have two downstream O2 sensors, although I have seen two downstream O2 sensors on some newer single exhaust systems

For BOTH upstream O2 sensors to fail at the same time is long odds, but like you said the CEL was on a very long time without you checking it:
"I don't remember if I bought it with the check engine light on or off but it's been on for a couple years since I've had the truck....."

So it is possible one was failing for a while and now both are failing, so replacement could be best choice now.

Generally if you have Lean or Rich, low/high switching codes on BOTH O2 sensors at the same time on a V engine then it is safe to assume it is NOT the O2 sensors causing the problem, they are just reporting the problem.
 
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I forgot to mention that P0133 is a PENDING code, the other sensor's code is full on active code. So maybe that leans towards it should be replaced and not the very rare instance that both are fried like you mentioned.

Perhaps also since I was getting two lean codes before cleaning the MAF sensor that the engine was compensating by making it richer and thus gunked up the 02 sensors? I mean, if cleaning the MAF sensor fixed it, then probably it wasn't even running lean to begin with. I did spray carb cleaner near the head (or whatever it's called I saw in a youtube video that is to diagnose a Lean code to check for air leaks but that test came up negative).


anyway, so which sensors are recommended, can you link them? thanks. I have an autozone sort of close, and a pepboys, and willing to buy online also. The removal tool, I'm either going to buy the harbor freight set for $40 and return it after. I think I need the mini off set one for these tight spaced sensors. Thanks again. I'll report back if it works.
 
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thank you very much spook and paw. (from another forum copy paste)

one said
First disconnect the battery B- cable before replacing the O2 sensors, so it'll wipe the corrupt fuel trim tables the old sensors have built. After replacing the O2 sensors, before driving, First perform the cold & warm idle relearn routine here,
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/971287-high-idle-problem.html#post9080519

Then if you need to have it inspected soon, perform the Ford emissions monitor reset drive cycle procedures here in post #4
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/220754-evap-completeness-test.html#post1469870


I was going to get the bosch or densos from Autozone and rent their 02 socket free. Bosch or Densos are $45-$55 each plus tax there. I see bosch and densos online for only about $25 shipped (and they're genuine and with the wiring plug already attached because I don't want to splice the old plug on). I can get the offset socket on ebay for $7 shipped.


I see Ford Motorcraft ones online which were recommended and about $35 on amazon but not sure if those are the exact kinds for my 6 cylinder xlt 4.0L, and I never used amazon or plan to. Direct from ford after plugging in my specs it cost $60 plus shipping but doesn't say up or downstream or left/right Bank 1 or 2.




I know I need both the upstreams but not sure which is which online some don't specify this but autozone says which is Right or Left and upstream or downstream.


Would save me about $40-$50 buying online if I don't mess this up and order the wrong ones.


can someone link me the Motortech ones or densos or bosch for a good deal online? If not, I'll try and figure this out tonight. thanks again.
 

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There will be no difference in upstream or downstream O2 sensors.

But there are 2 kinds of O2 sensors now, regular narrow band used since O2 sensors were added to engines, and the newer wideband O2 sensors.

There were no such things as narrowband O2s until wideband O2s came out, lol.

Narrowband uses .1v to .9volts to "describe" oxygen content in exhaust
Wideband uses 0v to 5volts to "describe" oxygen content in exhaust

The wideband has more resolution for correct oxygen levels, so better fine tuning can be done.
Wideband is also commonly called Air/Fuel ratio sensor, or A/F sensor instead of O2 sensor

BUT(big but), the computer needs to have the software for the wideband O2s or it can't use them, and conversely wideband computer can't use narrowband O2s
So you can't just switch from one to the other.

If you have a scanner then look at each O2 voltage, .1-.9v means narrow, around 3.3v means wideband

I doubt a car maker would use both on same vehicle, i.e. narrow upstream, wide downstream
 
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I don't need links for the parts, I just been searching autozone, pepboys, advane auto, etc, most if not all of those specify RIght or Left and Senspr 1 or 2. Some other websites or ebay I may save a few bucks but not as certain if they got the part number right, also if I buy from a brick and mortar chain, I can rent the socket free when I pick up. TY
 
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thank you pawpa (from another site in links, he gave advance auto parts %30 coupon code), that actually did save me about $25-$35 vs autozone pepboys etc. I can get both the fronts for $66 with that code either bosch / NTK, or denso.



I read denso usually beats bosch in forum threads and that NTK (same as ford motorcraft suposidly) are the best choice. I was all ready to oder the NTK but I said let me check what the truck actually has already so I don't possibly run into problems using a different brand I have heard of happeneing, and what I have are Bosch with a ford logo stamped, so I'm going to order the bosch right now and pick up. I hope I don't come back and someone says big mistake that I should have got NTK but we'll see.



also about wire length, many different brands have many different wire length for each front right/left sensor but they all say they're a direct fit for my exact make and model and engine. The wire actually has something to do with how the sensor breathes and operates. But I have read it doesn't at all matter the length (as long as it's long enough and not too long that a pipe melts it but if too long you can possibly bunch it up and tape it together). There's newer much rarer type of sensor I'm assuming I don't have but those kinds are dependent on the wire length.
 
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I replaced the o2s today, wasn't' too bad. I will report back if this indeed fixes my codes for good.

Here's some tips in case it helps anyone.


for the o2 on the "left' which is Driver side (right is passenger). Open the hood and you need a 1/2" ratchet and the offset 7/8" o2 socket (can rent the whole set free from autozone, advance auto, oriley etc or buy from ebay for $7 shipped). It's deep down there you'll find it eventually. unplug it. I recommend electronics cleaner spray for the socket coming from the computer which you will plug the new o2 into. Let that spray dry while you're replacing the o2. Mine was barely tightened on there at the factory. I didn't even warm the truck up first because I didn't want to burn my hands. I tightened up the new one nice and snug though.

The sensor on the passenger side, loosen the lug nuts on the front passenger tire, jack truck up, put jack stand under. remove tire. You don't have to take the whole mud flap thing off to get inside the wheel well, Just pop the plastic rivet thing in the area near the o2 and should be enough space to get the socket and ratchet in there. Unplug it first. I used the regular non offset ratchet to remove but then realized it might have been easier to use the offset one which I used to put the new one on. The passenger side one was the one with the longer wire that I bought new and the instructions say to just bundle up the extra wire and use the included zip ties and that you should put the bundle on the end of the wires opposite of the o2 sensor (because the wires are actually part of the sensor that it 'breathes' through the wires or something). Mine still had a bit of slack and I don't want it touching a hot pipe or anything so I suspended it with a piece of wire to some area of support above the wire. Deleted my codes and now hoping the check engine light doesn't come back on.

I have only a few more posts under this name so you might want to check that for exact part numbers etc. I bought bosch because the oem from the factory were bosch even though NTK are supposedly the best and the same price (aka ford motorcraft) but I have heard to use whatever brand was already there in case the new ones give slightly bad performance. Also read right and left doesn't' matter if you interchange them as long as they're both upstream (or downstream if replacing downstreams) but I wanted to be safe and used the Right and Left (that's for this car and these types of o2s, much rarer and usually newer o2s they have to be exact and have the exact length of wire but I just wanted to make sure.
 
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I replaced the o2s today, wasn't' too bad. I will report back if this indeed fixes my codes for good.

Here's some tips in case it helps anyone.


for the o2 on the "left' which is Driver side (right is passenger). Open the hood and you need a 1/2" ratchet and the offset 7/8" o2 socket (can rent the whole set free from autozone, advance auto, oriley etc or buy from ebay for $7 shipped). It's deep down there you'll find it eventually. unplug it. I recommend electronics cleaner spray for the socket coming from the computer which you will plug the new o2 into. Let that spray dry while you're replacing the o2. Mine was barely tightened on there at the factory. I didn't even warm the truck up first because I didn't want to burn my hands. I tightened up the new one nice and snug though.

The sensor on the passenger side, loosen the lug nuts on the front passenger tire, jack truck up, put jack stand under. remove tire. You don't have to take the whole mud flap thing off to get inside the wheel well, Just pop the plastic rivet thing in the area near the o2 and should be enough space to get the socket and ratchet in there. Unplug it first. I used the regular non offset ratchet to remove but then realized it might have been easier to use the offset one which I used to put the new one on. The passenger side one was the one with the longer wire that I bought new and the instructions say to just bundle up the extra wire and use the included zip ties and that you should put the bundle on the end of the wires opposite of the o2 sensor (because the wires are actually part of the sensor that it 'breathes' through the wires or something). Mine still had a bit of slack and I don't want it touching a hot pipe or anything so I suspended it with a piece of wire to some area of support above the wire. Deleted my codes and now hoping the check engine light doesn't come back on.

I have only a few more posts under this name so you might want to check that for exact part numbers etc. I bought bosch because the oem from the factory were bosch even though NTK are supposedly the best and the same price (aka ford motorcraft) but I have heard to use whatever brand was already there in case the new ones give slightly bad performance. Also read right and left doesn't' matter if you interchange them as long as they're both upstream (or downstream if replacing downstreams) but I wanted to be safe and used the Right and Left (that's for this car and these types of o2s, much rarer and usually newer o2s they have to be exact and have the exact length of wire but I just wanted to make sure.
 

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