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Been awhile... yeah, i still have my ranger


trader007

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Black with rust. Holes in body big enough to reach your arm through.

Motor still runs good. The biggest work I did to the engine was the lower head gaskets. That was around 160k. Other than that, I have done a couple transmissions, all the ball joints, both front wheel hubs twice (doing them my third time this weekend), every single sensor on the god damn thing (around 200k i just got sick of weird issues), u joints, brakes all around like 4 times, like 6 sets of tires, fuel pump (only once! :thefinger: ) on and on... I do all my own work, so over the entire life of the truck I actually have spent only about $1000 a year on it (excluding gas and insurance of course)

Anyway after i do all 4 tie rod ends (2nd time) this weekend, what im most worried about is the rear end. I have new springs on it, and shackles, and the differential gear itself isnt too loose. But the clutch packs are gone, the wheels move sideways like 1/2 an inch, and i have never done the rear bearings either, but they do feel fine.

Does it make sense to work on the rear end? Should I rebuild my clutch packs? I don't care about posi traction, I think the truck drives better with a free wheeling diff... And I don't know at what point it is dangerous to ignore the rear end any longer because all i have ever done to it is the brakes (like 4 times) and changed the fluid once. It doesn't leak, and besides the loose clutch packs it works just fine.

I want to get this past 300k, and maybe another year after that. My goal is to wait until i can get like a 2012 f150 with 100k on it for $10k. I think thats a year probably 2 years from now.

And what I absolutely don't want is a breakdown. Only once in the 12 years I have owned this truck has it left me stranded, and im still pissed about that. i know the engine could go... theres no telling if the timing chain or the valves are on their last legs... but it still has compression and it runs literally perfect. have one bad o2 sensor that im going to replace... other than that, no engine codes.
 


Jim Oaks

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Wow, that's a testament to anyone wondering how far they can holder on their 4.0L OHV V6
 
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trader007

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lol

i dont know why so many people disliked this motor... to me its better than the newer ohv's. yeah mileage sucks for such a light truck... whatever. 19.5mpg every damn week like clockwork.

original timing chain, original head gaskets, no problems with lifters or rods or anything. just the lower intake gaskets. not hard to replace though.

well, i did cheat 3 years ago. head gasket was leaking water into a cylinder, and i almost scrapped the truck at that point (it was rusty even then!)

but i did the crc headgasket repair process and that shit worked. like, i mean truly worked. after 6 months, it started leaking again... so i did the process again, and that was it. i haven't even lost a pint of water in 6 months. 2 years since i have done the process, and still no leaky headgasket.

im worried about my timing chain though. that thing cant be doing well. and i do worry about the heads... but so far no sign of wearing out. i mean i can still light up the tires when im drunk i mean i feel brave. love this little truck... definitely going to miss it when its gone.
 

Mightyfordranger

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Well you could put a new timing set in it although, it's pretty set in its ways as far as wear. It might just cut its life short not sure... But as far as the rear end you could swap in a junk yard one with less miles and wear with the same gears for prolly 150$. I'm not sure what it would cost rebuild the one you have. I have heard of people who get 300k+ out of trucks they just fix what breaks and change the fluids when they should. one of those people is my good friend who has a ranger with a 2.3.

I had a 98 with a 2.5 that had 279k on it and it ran like a champ. I did a timing belt at like 219k I'd still be driving it if my mom hadn't totaled it. I mean it didn't leak anything ever and started everytime I hit the key.

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fyre82

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"I have done a couple transmissions, all the ball joints, both front wheel hubs twice (doing them my third time this weekend)"

Would you have a part number for the front outside cv axle seal?
The one behind the bearing/hub.
Or the correct name of the thing. Parts folks almost can't do anything if its not on the screen.
Mine are destroyed so they are no help.
This is a later '00 Ranger 4x auto 4.0 supercab with live axle so no pulse lock hubs. All I can find say 98-02 at least for application and I'm on my second try at finding the correct seal as no one has that in stock in the sticks where I live.

Thanks
Rich
 

trader007

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"I have done a couple transmissions, all the ball joints, both front wheel hubs twice (doing them my third time this weekend)"

Would you have a part number for the front outside cv axle seal?
The one behind the bearing/hub.
Or the correct name of the thing. Parts folks almost can't do anything if its not on the screen.
Mine are destroyed so they are no help.
This is a later '00 Ranger 4x auto 4.0 supercab with live axle so no pulse lock hubs. All I can find say 98-02 at least for application and I'm on my second try at finding the correct seal as no one has that in stock in the sticks where I live.

Thanks
Rich
Mine have the pusle hubs... they always rattled though so i just put manual locks on them

but my seals are still perfect http://imgur.com/a/Mrx4P

A084032

My poor truck though. This thing is so rusty its just sad (and hard to work on). I think it would be smart to get rid of it before next winter...
 

trader007

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Well you could put a new timing set in it although, it's pretty set in its ways as far as wear. It might just cut its life short not sure... But as far as the rear end you could swap in a junk yard one with less miles and wear with the same gears for prolly 150$. I'm not sure what it would cost rebuild the one you have. I have heard of people who get 300k+ out of trucks they just fix what breaks and change the fluids when they should. one of those people is my good friend who has a ranger with a 2.3.

I had a 98 with a 2.5 that had 279k on it and it ran like a champ. I did a timing belt at like 219k I'd still be driving it if my mom hadn't totaled it. I mean it didn't leak anything ever and started everytime I hit the key.

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yeah i dont really want to dig into the engine because its all worn together... if i change one thing it could all go to hell

i guess the same goes for the rear end. **** it, it rides smooth and true. just keep going.
 

Mightyfordranger

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Yeah that's what I did with mine I only fixed what I had to and kept it all lube regularly and let it ride

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cp2295

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Yeah if it was me I'd just swap a junkyard axle. inspect it good and if it passes pick it up. Just make sure you get the right gear ratio.

1/2" of play sounds like a bit too much, c clips might be worn out but that is doubtful or the crosspin could be which is even more doubtful. It's in and out play or is it up and down? Up and down would mean bye bye axleshafts haha. Rebuilding a read end is not very difficult btw people make it out to be harder than it is, if you decided to go this route just save all the shims and mark where they go, and mark the position of the bearing caps. Then take the carrier and pinion down to your local machine shop and have them press the new bearings on to your stuff. As long as you don't change your ring and pinion and use high quality bearings you should not have to adjust the shims. I never have when just replacing the bearings in a diff, except when the bearings were so badly worn that they wore into the pinion. At which point I actually changed the ring and pinion so nvm on that lol.
 

cp2295

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However with the rust and condition of the truck me personally I would just change the gear oil and run it until I got rid of it.
 

trader007

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Yeah if it was me I'd just swap a junkyard axle. inspect it good and if it passes pick it up. Just make sure you get the right gear ratio.

1/2" of play sounds like a bit too much, c clips might be worn out but that is doubtful or the crosspin could be which is even more doubtful. It's in and out play or is it up and down? Up and down would mean bye bye axleshafts haha. Rebuilding a read end is not very difficult btw people make it out to be harder than it is, if you decided to go this route just save all the shims and mark where they go, and mark the position of the bearing caps. Then take the carrier and pinion down to your local machine shop and have them press the new bearings on to your stuff. As long as you don't change your ring and pinion and use high quality bearings you should not have to adjust the shims. I never have when just replacing the bearings in a diff, except when the bearings were so badly worn that they wore into the pinion. At which point I actually changed the ring and pinion so nvm on that lol.
its side to side... up and down is solid.. bearings feel great, both wheels turn butter smooth by hand. but both tires can move sideways easily when i have them jacked up and weight off them. or when im driving and i whip the ass end side to side you can hear the back end shift with a clunk.

it doesnt really effect driving... maybe hits bumps weird sometimes. i dont know.. **** it i guess. i just hope an axle doesnt come out when im doing 80mph down the freeway.
 
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cp2295

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Might be worth popping the cover off and making sure the c clips and everything looks good


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trader007

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Might be worth popping the cover off and making sure the c clips and everything looks good


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you make it sound so easy...

probably is, its just one of those few things i havent touched on this truck so the unknown is what always worries me.

anyway, i just got a clunk in my upper left balljoint. dammit, oh well. two new control arms on their way here.. this wsekend i will put them on, and god dammit i am doing my own camber/caster alignment. i refuse to let anyone, any shop touch my truck :D
 

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I have had a couple axles do that over the years and always figured it was the c-clip that had worn into the side gears.

Dunno what to tell you about the rest, if you're not falling through the floor and it's still reasonably safe to drive... as in the frame is solid... I'd keep driving it. I am only saying that because I have a comfortable amount of backup vehicles to drive, though...
 

cp2295

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you make it sound so easy...



probably is, its just one of those few things i havent touched on this truck so the unknown is what always worries me.



anyway, i just got a clunk in my upper left balljoint. dammit, oh well. two new control arms on their way here.. this wsekend i will put them on, and god dammit i am doing my own camber/caster alignment. i refuse to let anyone, any shop touch my truck :D


It is easy! Just look up a YouTube video. If you can set your camber/caster in the driveway you can open a rear end up and inspect it! You're looking for any excessive metal shavings obviously, and making sure you can see the c clips. If it was me I'd pull the slide pin (requires a 6 point 8mm or 5/16" wrench) and then the pin will drop straight out. Then u push in on the axleshaft (remove the drums too) and get a magnet and pull the c clip out. It'll make sense when u see it in front of you. Btw do not try a 12 point wrench, it will strip, been there done that. While you're at it you can remove the axleshafts and replace the wheel seals, about 30 minutes more work and if you're feeling really frisky you can change the axleshaft bearings too. Also do not rotate the axleshafts or anything while the slide pin is out as the spider gears can twist and fall out. They are easy to get back in but Better to just leave them alone. Another thing to look for too is any obvious damage to any of the gears. Ring/pinion, spider gears, axleshaft splines. Make sure there is no side to side play in the carrier (the big thing that the ring gear is bolted to). Don't know if I already said this but make sure there is no play in the pinion (where the driveline meets the rear diff) before you do any of this because if there is then it'll be a waste of time to tear into it unless u plan on rebuilding it.

Also make sure u get the camber kits, factory cams are not adjustable, and set the caster about 0.5 degrees higher on the pass side vs the drivers side, if possible, makes the truck track straight due to the crown in the road. 0 degrees camber and 0-1/32" toe! [emoji1303][emoji3]

Caster should be 2-5 degrees positive btw, good general rule of thumb on any vehicle really. Besides Mercedes and those pos German cars that have it at like 10 degrees haha


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