I've had it with the clutch!

Ranger4x4.0 said:

Well, I never loose any fluid, I check it every time the hood is up. And I have pumped the clutch, dumped it and helped a little but still hard to get in.

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If pumping helped, you have air in the system or a bad master.

I have read that the angle of the master cylinder makes it nearly impossible to bleed without removing it or parking the truck on a steep slope.

broncobuckinaround said:

sounds to me your clutch is no longer good. take it apart a d install a new clutch kit. if its not going into gear as soon as you push the pedal the clutch isnt doing its job. its slipping pretty bad. the pressure plate, throw out and clutch plate are worn out.

ive replaced enough clutch kits in my life to know this with out seeing it first hand.

save yourself the hassle of figuring it out. replace it.

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Yep. Fire the parts cannon at 'er. That'll fix it.

If the pressure and clutch disk are worn you will get slippage under acceleration, not difficulty putting it in gear. The only mechanical components that can cause it are the pilot and release bearings (and that will squeal or make noise and try to stall the engine if it gets that bad).

MrGiggles said:

If pumping helped, you have air in the system or a bad master.

I have read that the angle of the master cylinder makes it nearly impossible to bleed without removing it or parking the truck on a steep slope.



Yep. Fire the parts cannon at 'er. That'll fix it.

If the pressure and clutch disk are worn you will get slippage under acceleration, not difficulty putting it in gear. The only mechanical components that can cause it are the pilot and release bearings (and that will squeal or make noise and try to stall the engine if it gets that bad).

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Yeah, my clutch feels okay. When it decides to go in gear it doesn't slip at all.

When I had the clutch bled, there wasn't much difference.

So I'm leanimg towards the master cylinder or the pilot bearing. But more towards the pilot bearing because of the squeal during idle and takeoff. Unless that's the throwout.

I'll definitely bleed it but it's gotta be getting air somewhere I guess or I wouldn't have to be doing it again lol.

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Oh, what kind of "bleed" should I do since I think there's a few ways to do it.

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brendank uses a method where he detaches the assembly from the clutch pedal, and pulls it into the wheel well so he can tip it, and pushes the rod in by hand, he claims he has bled these transmissions a bunch of times and it works every time.

when i did mine it took a week to get it bled properly.

ive found that every time ive bled mine it has leaked air past the bleeder screw threads. so i always wrap them extensively with ptfe tape. then i use the bleeder, i put about 10 lbs of pressure on the line, then crack open the bleeder a small amount.

without pressure on the line you wouldnt even be able to tell that it was sucking air, you just see a very small amount of fluid/air move, at a very slow rate. i always leave it for a few hours and let it hover around 5 psi to avoid pulling air past any seals.

Old post but I'm gonna get it all replaced when I get my check, just haven't had the money til now. It has gotten significantly worse, couple inches of nothing on the pedal, clutch slipping when taking off, etc. Guess that's the symptoms of clutch parts with 200k on them! So the Luk kit would be best?

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LUK is the same as Motorcraft, if the clutch that's in there is original, it may have LUK stamped in it. Sachs is supposed to be pretty good too.

That said, so far I haven't used either for replacement. My F-150 got a stage 2 clutch through Summit Racing, don't remember the brand. Turned out to be not the greatest idea for a largely stock 4.9L, it's hard to feather the clutch because it just wants to grab instead of slip. My choptop got a clutch from Autozone just because. Held up longer than the motor I put in that truck, but that's not saying much because I probably haven't put more than 5k miles on it. And yes, you read that right.


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lil_Blue_Ford said:

LUK is the same as Motorcraft, if the clutch that's in there is original, it may have LUK stamped in it. Sachs is supposed to be pretty good too.

That said, so far I haven't used either for replacement. My F-150 got a stage 2 clutch through Summit Racing, don't remember the brand. Turned out to be not the greatest idea for a largely stock 4.9L, it's hard to feather the clutch because it just wants to grab instead of slip. My choptop got a clutch from Autozone just because. Held up longer than the motor I put in that truck, but that's not saying much because I probably haven't put more than 5k miles on it. And yes, you read that right.


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Is this it?

http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/MC/5529-07083869.html?utm_content=MC&utm_term=1998-2000+Ford+Ranger+Clutch+Kit+LUK+07-139+98-00+Ford+Clutch+Kit+1999&fp=pp&gbm=a&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=CjwKEAiAtefDBRDTnbDnvM735xISJABlvGOvgh-eTYBGIvH5FPGmKiO5qvRgR1d0STDl-yze56XcUhoC0Hjw_wcB&ad=47362750812

Couldn't find any info on what all it includes, also, what's a good master cylinder brand? That may be going out too hence the soft pedal but idk.

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Ranger4x4.0 said:

Is this it?

http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/MC/5529-07083869.html?utm_content=MC&utm_term=1998-2000+Ford+Ranger+Clutch+Kit+LUK+07-139+98-00+Ford+Clutch+Kit+1999&fp=pp&gbm=a&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=CjwKEAiAtefDBRDTnbDnvM735xISJABlvGOvgh-eTYBGIvH5FPGmKiO5qvRgR1d0STDl-yze56XcUhoC0Hjw_wcB&ad=47362750812

Couldn't find any info on what all it includes, also, what's a good master cylinder brand? That may be going out too hence the soft pedal but idk.

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That looks like it. FWIW, Rockauto has it for $137, and we can get 5% off there. You may have to go on TRS via a web browser, but pull up the Rockauto forum, there should be a discount code posted.

For the master cylinder and slave cylinder, if you buy the whole pre-bled system, you really don't have much choice. If you buy them separately, you can buy LUK or Sachs.


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I take that back, you can get to the Rockauto discount code through the supporting members forum listing.


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lil_Blue_Ford said:

That looks like it. FWIW, Rockauto has it for $137, and we can get 5% off there. You may have to go on TRS via a web browser, but pull up the Rockauto forum, there should be a discount code posted.

For the master cylinder and slave cylinder, if you buy the whole pre-bled system, you really don't have much choice. If you buy them separately, you can buy LUK or Sachs.


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Ok thanks!

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I'd suggest an exedy or Sachs clutch. The last 4 clutches I had were luk and all of them made noise and chattered. These were all on either resurfaced. Or brand new flywheels. Switched out for Sachs and exedy. Quiet as a virgins bedroom

blackwidow67 said:

I'd suggest an exedy or Sachs clutch. The last 4 clutches I had were luk and all of them made noise and chattered. These were all on either resurfaced. Or brand new flywheels. Switched out for Sachs and exedy. Quiet as a virgins bedroom

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Lmao, ok I'll give them a look!

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When I change the clutch in my '04, it had the original Ford kit. It was marked both Ford and Luk. I bought the clutch kit from Napa as I was in a bind and couldn't wait for one from Rockauto. The Napa one was also a Luk in the package.

BTW, I am now on my 3rd slave cylinder/throwout at 276,000 miles. Those things are a pain with the 3.0 and 4.0!

delaware74b said:

When I change the clutch in my '04, it had the original Ford kit. It was marked both Ford and Luk. I bought the clutch kit from Napa as I was in a bind and couldn't wait for one from Rockauto. The Napa one was also a Luk in the package.

BTW, I am now on my 3rd slave cylinder/throwout at 276,000 miles. Those things are a pain with the 3.0 and 4.0!

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Well my slave cylinder has been pretty good then, with 197,xxx miles on it lol

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I have had good luck with Luk clutches but have also used literally every other brand too. Haven't kept a vehicle long enough to wear one out, they all seem to be OK.

delaware74b said:

BTW, I am now on my 3rd slave cylinder/throwout at 276,000 miles. Those things are a pain with the 3.0 and 4.0!

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Whiner I have clutch jobs down to about a 5 hour process, by myself, with just a trans jack and no hoist. Just replaced a slave cylinder on a 3.0 truck last weekend, I started at about noon and would have been done at 5:30 that night if I hadn't gotten a bad master cylinder from VatoZone. That included a lunch break.

Clutch jobs on 4 cylinder trucks are a lot easier though...