Two issues on one thread lol

tjs4x4 · Oct 23, 2010

First issue: RUST! YES, RUST! On the rear 'side panels', whatever the heck they're called. AND, yes, I said AND, rust on the tops of the rear wheels wells. What is the best way around this? This rust is eating away at the back end of my Ex.
PIX: LEFT SIDE:

Right side is starting to rust out just like the left, only not quite as bad.

SECOND:
The rear gate doesn't seem to be aligned right, and its very hard to open. Also, stupid question, shouldn't there be a latch on the bottom of the gate too?
PIX:

voodoochylde · Oct 23, 2010

If it's anything like the Bronco II's you could have a LOT of rust hiding in the rear cargo area underneath the carpet. This can weaken the rear structure enough to make the hatch hard or impossible to open/close.

I HATE dealing with rust so I don't do much of it. I've been known to "build" partial fenders/quarter panels with expanding foam, bondo, and paint. That was, obviously, ONLY to pass inspection.

I reckon the right way to take care of it is to cut/grind ALL of the rust out and reweld good metal back in. Cover with your choice of paint.

Good luck!

tjs4x4 · Oct 23, 2010

I've pulled the carpet up just to see what was under there, and there's not any rust there, yet. For which I am thankful the rust so far is limited to these areas.
How hard is it to spot weld? What all is involved, I want to learn so that I can fix this myself.
I plan on pulling that nasty carpet out of the rear anyways and lining it with vinyl. Guess its a good thing I took a peek!

voodoochylde · Oct 23, 2010

As far as spot welding goes, I don't know from experience. I do know that body guys will often weld one spot and then move as far away as they can until the original spot has cooled. Adding too much heat to your thin sheet metal will cause distortion in a hurry. Google should be a big help here. Maybe you can do an apprenticeship with a body shop?

Glad to hear your cargo area isn't a rust pit. I'd check the strikers and latches first. Check for alignment on both sides and make sure the latches are free-moving and well lubricated. In my experience, a product usually used for guns works great here. It's called BreakFree CLP and contains some minor solvents (be careful around paint you care about) and teflon. The solvents act as a carrier for the teflon and, when dry, leave a nice slick layer of DuPont's best accident.

The other place I would look would be the hinges. Again, check for alignment and proper lubrication. This isn't as critical as the latches as even stiff grease will work.

tjs4x4 · Oct 23, 2010

LOL, I dunno if anyone would want a 'girl' in their shop! I actually thought about going into auto mechanics instead of nursing because I was a nurses aide for 11 years, and was totally tired of it. Alas, I did what I knew I could do. I'd love to learn auto mechanics tho. I may end up having to take it to a shop if I cannot find someone local to help me with this job.

Bennybooster · Oct 23, 2010

There are also community classes in most towns at the local college to learn welding and other automotive skills

tjs4x4 · Oct 23, 2010

Good idea! I'll check the local community college.

I lubed up the latches/catches and it seems to be opening easier. I was having to use both hands to open it with the handle lol. Now I can open it with one hand on the handle. Maybe its just cuz the rig is old that it doesn't seem aligned LOL.

Soo, what IS that circled hole for? LMAO!

Nathan123 · Oct 23, 2010

I would imagine the round hole is to put the handle of your jack in to crank down the spare tire. I believe there should be a cheesy lock on it so it's inconvenient to steal.

exbass94 · Oct 23, 2010

Nathan123 said:
I would imagine the round hole is to put the handle of your jack in to crank down the spare tire. I believe there should be a cheesy lock on it so it's inconvenient to steal.

+1 The hole is for the crank hole to lower the spare tire. The crank handle should be located under the hood clipped to the radiator support. My Ex never had a lock on it. My Ranger didn't come with a lock either.

r1hatman · Oct 23, 2010

Try this! Good luck.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/rust-repair-panels/p2000568.jcwx?filterid=d16937y1991j1

tjs4x4 · Oct 24, 2010

I was actually thinking about just replacing the whole panel. Anyone know where I can find those pieces, and the metal for the top of the rear wheel wells?

voodoochylde · Oct 24, 2010

LMC or scour the junkyards if you want the closest fit.

tjs4x4 · Oct 24, 2010

What is LMC? Do they have a website? I don't want to go to the junkyards for the rust repair

r1hatman · Oct 24, 2010

Here you go.

http://www.lmctruck.com/

tjs4x4 · Oct 24, 2010

Thank you!

Two issues on one thread lol

New Member

Member

New Member

Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

Well-Known Member

New Member

New Member

Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Today's birthdays

Member & Vendor Upgrades

Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Amazon Deals