Cyrus9586
New Member
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2018
- Messages
- 16
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 0
- Location
- Portland Oregon
- Vehicle Year
- 87
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Size
- 2.9l v6
- Transmission
- Automatic
So I bought this as my first ever car. My uncle has one that is identical in year and model and I drove that a bit and loved it.
I paid 750 for it and she has some body damage but the rest of what the seller told me I'm not believing.
Don't use the glass hatch it doesn't work. Works fine.
However the batch itself you have to hold the bottom driver side and slam it hard and hold it and pray it shut right.
The 4wd switch won't go into high. Works fine never once failed.
The engine was rebuilt and tranny replaced less then 10k miles ago.
Okay here's where it starts to get murky.
The valves click very loudly. I tried sea foam. I tried thicker oil they still click badly.
The transfer case makes a loud clunk when taking off from a dead stop.
It won't pass oregon DEQ even after sea foam and a tune up. When I replaced the distributor there was a good deal of corrosion as well as a massive carbon deposit blocking off the egr(I may have that wrong it's the unburnt fuel recycler system) which i cleaned out though tranny otherwise seems fine.a local exhaust shop said the cat looks fine. Have not replaced o2 sensor. I have gotten the co2 to passing but the mixture is still too lean and the HC are too high.
She's recently developed a sound like a vibrating soda can havnt diagnosed it yet.
Brakes were SHOT. Driver front calipur seized completely on the highway had a smoking rim by the time I got to work. Back and front brakes replaced new tires with slightly smaller tires.
Tachometer stopped reading unless it's over 2k rpm.
Speedometer is reading 4-6 mpg faster than car is going.
A.c. doesn't blow cold. Blows cool but not cold.
Coolant vanishes. No puddles. No leaks I can see. Just have to top it off ever 2-3 weeks.
And last the oil battery and temp gauges are after market and more accurate. Oil pressure was reading 20 cold and 0 hot now reads 50 cold goes to 20 hot and after a bit 0.
I have very little mechanical experience and a tight budget. How bad am I in now?
I paid 750 for it and she has some body damage but the rest of what the seller told me I'm not believing.
Don't use the glass hatch it doesn't work. Works fine.
However the batch itself you have to hold the bottom driver side and slam it hard and hold it and pray it shut right.
The 4wd switch won't go into high. Works fine never once failed.
The engine was rebuilt and tranny replaced less then 10k miles ago.
Okay here's where it starts to get murky.
The valves click very loudly. I tried sea foam. I tried thicker oil they still click badly.
The transfer case makes a loud clunk when taking off from a dead stop.
It won't pass oregon DEQ even after sea foam and a tune up. When I replaced the distributor there was a good deal of corrosion as well as a massive carbon deposit blocking off the egr(I may have that wrong it's the unburnt fuel recycler system) which i cleaned out though tranny otherwise seems fine.a local exhaust shop said the cat looks fine. Have not replaced o2 sensor. I have gotten the co2 to passing but the mixture is still too lean and the HC are too high.
She's recently developed a sound like a vibrating soda can havnt diagnosed it yet.
Brakes were SHOT. Driver front calipur seized completely on the highway had a smoking rim by the time I got to work. Back and front brakes replaced new tires with slightly smaller tires.
Tachometer stopped reading unless it's over 2k rpm.
Speedometer is reading 4-6 mpg faster than car is going.
A.c. doesn't blow cold. Blows cool but not cold.
Coolant vanishes. No puddles. No leaks I can see. Just have to top it off ever 2-3 weeks.
And last the oil battery and temp gauges are after market and more accurate. Oil pressure was reading 20 cold and 0 hot now reads 50 cold goes to 20 hot and after a bit 0.
I have very little mechanical experience and a tight budget. How bad am I in now?