94 ranger 2.3, 4 bolt crank pulley removed, crank snout blocking timing belt

Nisif · Dec 4, 2015

I'm replacing the timing belt and I removed the crank pulley by removing the large 7/8" bolt and the 4 10mm bolts but it's only a sleeve that the serpentine belt runs off of.

I'm left with what looks like a crank pulley snout or hub (not sure of proper name).

Either way it's blocking access to the crank gear which the timing belt runs on.

Any idea how to remove it?

I'll try to upload pics here soon.

Nisif · Dec 4, 2015

Above is what I removed...below is what I can't remove:

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Big Jim M · Dec 4, 2015

You WILL NEED a "puller"! Comes with bolts that screw into the threaded holes and a bigger bolt that then pushes the balancer off of the crankshaft. When reinstalling that big bolt you took off will install it as torqued! Most parts houses can LOAN one to you. A new seal will be in order.
Big Jim

Big Jim M · Dec 4, 2015

BTW I always insert that big bolt and use it to push against so I won't damage the interior threads.
Big Jim

Andy D · Dec 4, 2015

Mean time get that snout shiny and slippery. Go for something with "creep"
X2 on screwing big bolt back in. Is that roll pin a locater or does it hold stuff together.?

Also, before you go much further I recommend establishing the timing marks at TDC of #1 cylinder An extra precaution I take with interference engines. Helps putting stuff together and having it start and run right.

Big Jim M · Dec 4, 2015

Andy I'm guessing that pin is a balance locater. I do hate completely interior balanced engines.
Big Jim

Nisif · Dec 4, 2015

Thanks guys...ill call AutoZone and ask if they have a specific puller for that balancer.

Here's the thing. The truck didn't have timing belt covers on it. Unfortunately the reason why I'm doing the t belt change.

I was replacing the thermostat and dropped a bolt. It lodged itself in the crank gear and I snapped the timing belt attempting to start the truck. Ugh, fml. I only cranked it once so hopefully didn't bend the valves.

So hard to determine tdc at the crank without the bottom cover. I read that I can determine tdc when the crank gear key is at 12 o clock position. Sound right?

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tinman_72 · Dec 4, 2015

Nisif said:
...Ugh, fml. I only cranked it once so hopefully didn't bend the valves...

Lima engines are non-interference. Your valves are fine.

Spott · Dec 4, 2015

Nisif said:
So hard to determine tdc at the crank without the bottom cover.

Crank TDC isn't complicated, it's TDC for piston 1. You can take the spark plug out and stick a dowel in and feel when it reaches the top (or a screwdriver, if you're careful not to scratch stuff).

pocket-rocket · Dec 5, 2015

Also, use an installer to put the hub back on. Using the bolt that came out of it can strip threads in the crank if it doesn't bite into enought of them, and pounding it on with a hammer is out of the question, unless you hate your engine.

Andy D · Dec 5, 2015

Heh heh, I thought I had jumped in over my head. My future DIL's 99 CRV developed a miss that I located the trouble with a compression test. 65 PSI in #4 . She was putting my son through law school and they were broke. My son paid for OEM Honda parts. A head gasket kit and 2 exhaust valves. I pulled the head, and replaced the valves. The first thing I did was to set TDC in #1 just like Spott does. Then I match marked the cap and rotor. I set out to label all the wiring with tape when I found that the hook ups are idiot proofed. The harness has a very limited scope. This is done to keep material costs low. It also makes it easy to hook up. The only plug within reach is the one. Same with hoses.. The process was slow because I was careful. My son helped me with the last bit . I was amazed when the engine started easily and ran great.

AndyB. · Dec 5, 2015

I don't know what your timeline in on this project. If the puller you need is T74P-6306-A, I have one I'll sell to you very reasonably.

Nisif · Dec 6, 2015

Thanks guys...
I removed the harmonic balancer successfully. I used oem tool kit pn /50a027019 for reference. AutoZone carries it. I cut off a 1/2" from the end of the bolt so I could clear the radiator without removing it. As noted above the threads are different so install the stock crank pulley bolt back in and use the puller bolt to push against it. Also needed slightly longer bolts to install into the balancer. Pic attached...

I'm ready to install the belt. Cam and crank gears are aligned. For reference tdc at the crank is when the key way is located at 12-o clock.

Any idea where the 3rd pulley (not sure of the name) should be aligned at? It has an arrow on it...Pic attached.

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black_demon69 · Dec 7, 2015

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79044

here you go

Nisif · Dec 7, 2015

Thanks, I found that the 3rd pulley does not need to be aligned on the 93 and 94 models. If you're 95 and up it does.

Belt install is finished, runs like it did before. Thanks for the help

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94 ranger 2.3, 4 bolt crank pulley removed, crank snout blocking timing belt

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