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Yep, Another V8 Swap Is Underway!


Broosedamoose

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My credo
Coming in second just makes you the first loser!
So my truck suffered a fatal heart attack when the timing chain jumped! (Been trying to break it for about 8 months now!) I am going into this with a budget of about $12k that I have been saving up. My plan is to strip it right down to the frame and start from there. Blast and paint it, replace all the bushings, mounts, etc., swap out the rear axle for disc brakes, replace all the suspension adding a 4" lift, swap the engine for a completely rebuilt 5.0 and bolt it to either a rebuilt/customized AOD or T5 with an F150 T/C, custom made headers/exhaust :icon_welder:, put it all back together with whatever needs to be new and give her a fresh coat of black paint and I'm thinking. . . very light, red ghost flames; just up front. Oh, and a new set of wheels. I'll try to post pics and give details on any problem areas that merit it. Let's see how far I get before the budget is blown! :popcorn:
 


Broosedamoose

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31 x 10.5
My credo
Coming in second just makes you the first loser!
Yes. Same one in my signature below.
 

RonD

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Reads like non-computer vehicle conversion :)

2003 dash/instruments were still analog, posted 2003 wiring diagram here: http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=166819

AOD/transfercase setup should have speedometer cable hookup which can be used with the later model cable/VSS Ford setups from the early 1990s, for electronic speedometer.
These were 8,000PPM setups so no conversion would be required just changing the Driven Gear for tire size and axle ratio was the adjustment for True Speed

They look like this: http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/wl2/SU1019/image/8/

You will need to run the wiring for it, since 2003 stock VSS/OSS wiring will have gone to computer first and then out to Speedometer
VSS generate their own AC voltage so no power is required
 
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Broosedamoose

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Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0L SOHC
Transmission
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2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31 x 10.5
My credo
Coming in second just makes you the first loser!
I'm going with the EFI set-up. I have all the tuning tools (MongoosePro, QuarterHorse, Binary Editor, etc.) so I can dial it in. I'm also going with Dakota Digital modules for the fan and the speedo. It will be simpler.
I bought these today to sit on top:

I like red on black! That's the color scheme I doing the whole truck!:icon_hornsup:
 

Broosedamoose

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4WD
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31 x 10.5
My credo
Coming in second just makes you the first loser!
5.0 Internals, Suggestions needed

I am looking for some input as to what I should use for guts, i.e. Pistons, Cams, Lifters, etc. I'm not looking for a drag truck! Just something fun to drive. I would be happy with 300 RWH. Even 250 as long as it's at the wheels! I would think that's plenty for a 4-wheel drive truck, no?

Anyway, let me know what y'all think. Thanks!
 

Junglejoe

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Trick flow top end will get your there. I have ran that combo on a lot of my mustangs
 

Broosedamoose

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4WD
Tire Size
31 x 10.5
My credo
Coming in second just makes you the first loser!
The Explorer donor has the GT40 intake and heads. The mechanic building the motor says he can make the heads better than anything I can buy to put on there. Considering what were doing of course! I'm looking for suggestions on internal stuff.
 

Jbrown1238

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The Explorer donor has the GT40 intake and heads. The mechanic building the motor says he can make the heads better than anything I can buy to put on there. Considering what were doing of course! I'm looking for suggestions on internal stuff.
The GT40P heads with the Explorer GT40 Upper and Lower intake worked well for me. I admit they were all heavily ported along with fresh valve work and Trick Flow springs.

The bottom end turned out to perform exactly the way I had hoped. My son recommended the combination for me and I purchased the parts and did the assembly after the machine work had been completed. It is pretty much what you describe above, approx. 300 hp with a lot of torque down low. With the cam selected the torque starts coming on as low as 1200 rpm and with the port work it pulls great all the way through the rpm range.

Most people tend to want all that power up high and not so much down low. For a street application this thing is a blast to drive. Great idle quality and drivability. 23 mpg with 3.55's and a five speed.

Here we go!

.030 over bore, 306 cubic inch. Machine work $200.00
Xe264hr Comp Cam. $312.00
Stock crank
Scat Pro Stock I-beam rods with ARP cap screws. $267.00
Mahle file fit rings, $50.00
Silvolite 3101hc-.030 pistons, $295.00
Clevite 77 main and rod bearings, $77.00
Ford Racing lifters, $100.00
Ford Racing timing chain, $67.00
Ford Racing oil pump, $35.00
ARP oil pump drive shaft, $20.00
Rotating assembly fully weight matched and balanced. $250.00

I feel the money is best spent on three things as far as the short block is concerned.

1. The rods (for the price you get the ARP cap screws and the pieces are already weight matched to within .5 grams). You are going to spend at least the purchase price on having the stock rods reconditioned and chamfered to fit ARP rod bolts.

2. Next spend the money on a fresh bore. There is nothing like solid compression to make power.

3. Weight matching everything and then having the entire rotating assembly balanced is well worth the added cost. It spins up fast and smooth.
 
Last edited:

Broosedamoose

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Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0L SOHC
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31 x 10.5
My credo
Coming in second just makes you the first loser!
Great idle quality and drivability. 23 mpg with 3.55's and a five speed.
Is this in a 4WD Ranger or a 2WD? My truck has never seen anything above 19 MPG with the 4.0L in it! I am doing pretty much what you described only going .40 bored, a Crane Mechanical Roller Cam, Crane Pro Series Mechanical Roller Lifters and Crane double Springs on the heavily ported/polished heads. Definately going to balance the rotating assemble! I'd think it's money well spent! Replacing everything with ARP fasteners. I'm thinking about buying this to sit on top:


I think it will look nice with the valve covers above!
 

Jbrown1238

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Is this in a 4WD Ranger or a 2WD? My truck has never seen anything above 19 MPG with the 4.0L in it! I am doing pretty much what you described only going .40 bored, a Crane Mechanical Roller Cam, Crane Pro Series Mechanical Roller Lifters and Crane double Springs on the heavily ported/polished heads. Definately going to balance the rotating assemble! I'd think it's money well spent! Replacing everything with ARP fasteners. I'm thinking about buying this to sit on top:


I think it will look nice with the valve covers above!
23 mpg is with a 2wd, 29 inch tire (275/55/17) all the way around. 3.55's, and a .63 final drive ratio. Full weight with a tune.

I have always liked the Trick Flow upper and lower and did consider it for my build. Nice pieces but a pretty heavy price for the entire top end kit, including heads and a cam. I also wanted to use cast iron heads for my own reasons. I spent more on working the GT40 pieces than most people would but the end result performs as I had hoped.

I couldn't tell from the photo you included if it was the Holley, Trick Flow, or Edlebrock intake but they are all very good options.
 
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Broosedamoose

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Messages
362
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Location
South East Massachusettes
Vehicle Year
2007
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0L SOHC
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31 x 10.5
My credo
Coming in second just makes you the first loser!
That is the Holley intake. I ordered it today along with the valve covers.
 

Broosedamoose

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Joined
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Messages
362
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Location
South East Massachusettes
Vehicle Year
2007
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0L SOHC
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31 x 10.5
My credo
Coming in second just makes you the first loser!
So far I have exchanged the Holley for the Trick Flow intake and 75mm TB , Trick Flow Tracks Max Hydraulic Roller cam (Advertised Duration 275/279, Lift .499/.510), Trick Flow Roller Rocker Arms, going with Keith Black Performance series Hypereutectic pistons (.040), and all new ARP fasteners. Should make for a decent set up.
 
Last edited:

Broosedamoose

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362
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115
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43
Location
South East Massachusettes
Vehicle Year
2007
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0L SOHC
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31 x 10.5
My credo
Coming in second just makes you the first loser!
Heads

I'm thinking of going with new heads. The stock heads need a lot of work and for what it's going to cost, I may as well go with new ones! I would like to stick with the Trick Flow parts (unless there is a reason to use others) and want to hear from those who have rebuilt engines with new heads. What did you go with and why?
 

Broosedamoose

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Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0L SOHC
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31 x 10.5
My credo
Coming in second just makes you the first loser!
Engine and tranny are out and being torn down. So far the heads appear to be in decent shape so I may not need to replace them. What a PITA to get this thing out! Probably broke half the bolts we tried getting out! Even though I sprayed everything with Blaster for a week or so! Oddly enough, the motor mount nuts and bell housing bolts came right off! Now the fun stuff starts! :icon_welder::popcorn:
 

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