arrrrg! ball joints!

Denisefwd93 · May 2, 2017

Already have the press. Left side camber bushing pinch bolt head is rounded. Arrrg! Cut the bolt in the slot with a cut off wheel, drill it out with the steering knuckle off the truck?

Denisefwd93 · May 4, 2017

update.. the rented press works.. it's still very hard work. old school takes em put with a BFH and pipe.. but pressing them in.. I don't think pounding of a new ball joint is a good idea. I've learned so much! and still glad I got an older Ranger!

Denisefwd93 · May 9, 2017

Ok, wrapping up this project! One more ?, the wheels as expected, are tilted out at the top, Until I get it to a shop we want to get the camber closer to 0+- the bushing was set with the slot about 4 O'Clock, i know leave for the shop lol but we are going to try

swynx · May 11, 2017

Denisefwd93 said:
Ok, wrapping up this project! One more ?, the wheels as expected, are tilted out at the top, Until I get it to a shop we want to get the camber closer to 0+- the bushing was set with the slot about 4 O'Clock, i know leave for the shop lol but we are going to try

alignments on these trucks are easy. i do mine with an angle finder and a tape measure. theres a few writeups in the tech library.

ive also found that ALOT of shops dont understand how to align or cant align these pickups.

Denisefwd93 · May 11, 2017

Camber bushings do just what they are made for! Looks like maybe the truck has never had an alignment but I will take in to shop soon as I'm back on the road. Toe in... eh.. didn't measure yet.
thanks again!

Denisefwd93 · May 11, 2017

Well the beast is sitting on all four again! Seems like the camber bushings need set with the weight on the wheels. Hopefully next week she will get inspected. Still lots of other issues to deal with; leaky power steering hoses, leaky intake & valve cover.

Question? On the tie rod, if we want to adjust the toe in, does that big turnbuckle need to be pried open before it can be turned to shorten/lengthen the tie rod/s?

swynx · May 12, 2017

Denisefwd93 said:
Well the beast is sitting on all four again! Seems like the camber bushings need set with the weight on the wheels. Hopefully next week she will get inspected. Still lots of other issues to deal with; leaky power steering hoses, leaky intake & valve cover.

Question? On the tie rod, if we want to adjust the toe in, does that big turnbuckle need to be pried open before it can be turned to shorten/lengthen the tie rod/s?

i always jack the pickup up, and set the axles on jackstands, then try and cycle the suspension as much as possible, when i adjust the camber/caster bushings. leave a jack under that side of the axle in case it slips, ive had it happen.

just loosen the bolts on both sides of the turnbuckle, maybe spray it with some pblaster, it should turn fine. if the threads are going into the turn buckle they might be harder, but i just use a crescent wrench or screw driver in that case.

Denisefwd93 · May 12, 2017

Nah it won't turn with the clamps loose.. Truck is basically done until I get it inspected next week. I need a break too. was fun, but damn it's hard work! Those warn hubs are slick! turn and lock, turn and unlock!

swynx · May 12, 2017

Denisefwd93 said:
Nah it won't turn with the clamps loose.. Truck is basically done until I get it inspected next week. I need a break too. was fun, but damn it's hard work! Those warn hubs are slick! turn and lock, turn and unlock!

i would try and spray them and turn them back and forth get them to break free. i remember one of mine clamps was pretty tight, so i took it all the way off and cleaned all the gunk out of it. after 20 years of not being adjusted it got pretty bad.

alwaysFlOoReD · May 12, 2017

There is a specialized tool for turning those tie rod clamps.

https://www.otctools.com/sites/default/files/6274_2197_0.jpg

I made my own from a chisel and socket;

Before making that tool, I tried a big prybar, a screwdriver, in the slot. Those two don't apply force at the correct angle. And a pipe-wrench on the outside. The pipe-wrench just makes the clamp tighter, you can see the marks where I tried. The proper tool applies force such that the clamp opens while turning.

If you want detailed instructions on how I made the tool, PM me.

Denisefwd93 · May 12, 2017

alwaysFlOoReD said:
There is a specialized tool for turning those tie rod clamps.

https://www.otctools.com/sites/default/files/6274_2197_0.jpg

I made my own from a chisel and socket;

Before making that tool, I tried a big prybar, a screwdriver, in the slot. Those two don't apply force at the correct angle. And a pipe-wrench on the outside. The pipe-wrench just makes the clamp tighter, you can see the marks where I tried. The proper tool applies force such that the clamp opens while turning.

If you want detailed instructions on how I made the tool, PM me.

Thank you! :icon_thumby:

Denisefwd93 · May 15, 2017

Update!

Feel real good about the work we did on the truck. I finally summoned up the nerve to go for a "test" drive :dunno:

Feels like a different truck! No grinding when turning the wheel hard over L or R.
the front drive shaft out of the T-case turns by hand with truck in P or N so it's not locked in 4wd, The Warn hubs really are the answer to the auto hub problems!

So. this is what we did;
upper and lower ball joints, (don't think the uppers were even close to bad, all the load is on the lower)
rotors,
new wheel bearings
spindle bearings
All seals for wheels and axles,
New U-joint on drive's side front axle,
new brake pads
new slide pins

Still need;
alignment but seems at least as it was.
power steering hoses
intake manifold and valve cover leaks fixed
auto to 5 speed (but the "bad" auto is working somewhat okay)

The new wheel bearings? Should we check them after a few miles driving?
Thanks all! :beer:

billpac4u · May 22, 2017

Ball joint wear

How long should ball joints last? I replaced both 30,000 miles ago, and the right one seems loose again . . . :icon_confused:

(and I do very little off-road driving!)

Denisefwd93 · May 22, 2017

billpac4u said:
How long should ball joints last? I replaced both 30,000 miles ago, and the right one seems loose again . . . (and I do very little off-road driving!)

Grease em! Apparently they don't last near as long some of us think they should last. On the TTB type suspension the lower ball joint gets all the load. the upper holds the caster camber and steering knuckle where they need to be. The prices of them are all over the place too. from dirt cheap to sky high

arrrrg! ball joints!

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