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tryin to find and need some help


TomB1269

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However the problem is that the psi rating on the side of the tire is ALWAYS the maximum pressure never what you should put in the tire. Like others have said you follow what the manufacture of the car recommends for the vehicle. You are running too much pressure in your tires and they WILL wear uneven and you run a greater risk of blowing the bead.

As for rims having tire pressure, they do have a recommended tire pressure most stock rims will not mention it because they expect people to run what is recommended by the manufacturer.
Sorry, but I absolutely disagree. The PSI listed on the sidewall of the tire does not list the tires absolute max but the max COLD PSI which is what I set them to (with exception) As for the door sticker listing the proper PSI for tire wear, again I would have to disagree, and do so with actual experence to back it up. I owned a 92 Grand Am that had Kelly Charger tires on it, when I replaced the 1st set (bought car used at 60K miles) at around 100 to 110K. I replaced them with the same, both sets were run at 44PSI (with the exception being the final 2 years in NJ due to road conditions, to rough a ride) their entire life. The second set were run between 50K and 55K, with a tread life expectancy of only 40K. The tires were perfectly worn, as I did rotate them correctly and I kept them inflated. Now change vehicals, Mini Vans and compact SUVs, I currently have a van, ny inlaws the SUV, and my parents had a mini van as well. All of these vehicles are sent from the factory with "touring" tires, IE tires that should be run at 40 plus PSI, however Ford does not allow PSI markings on the tire from the factory. Each and everyone of these tire has to be replaced at 40 to 50K, and none have had even wear across the tread (ie from outside to inside edge of tire). They have been evenly worn on the edges both inside and outside being warn the same but the center section of the tire has usable tread remaining. There is only one way to accomplish that, and that is running the tire under inflated. Radials under inflated will accually allow the the center of the tread to lift up (think off of the road in the very center of the tire) unlike a bias ply tire which will actually increase it contact patch with less air. Now you may say thats the owner not rotating, (Not really) or its driving style (seen my mother inlaw drive). I will agree that being front wheel drive and the natural lifting of the front end during acceleration from 0 does cause the tires to tip in and put extra wear to the out edge, and being these are also turning tire the inside is also abused harder, but proper rotation should and does minize this offset wear however only when the tire is inflate to the TIRE MANUFACTURE'S COLD PSI rating. Sorry about the lenght, years of arguing with some tire tech who lowers the PSI in my tire and then balances them. So that when they get proper re-inflated the balance is slightly off (I had it happen a time or 2).:annoyed:
 


Original_Ranger84

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Sorry, but I absolutely disagree. The PSI listed on the sidewall of the tire does not list the tires absolute max but the max COLD PSI which is what I set them to (with exception) As for the door sticker listing the proper PSI for tire wear, again I would have to disagree, and do so with actual experence to back it up. I owned a 92 Grand Am that had Kelly Charger tires on it, when I replaced the 1st set (bought car used at 60K miles) at around 100 to 110K. I replaced them with the same, both sets were run at 44PSI (with the exception being the final 2 years in NJ due to road conditions, to rough a ride) their entire life. The second set were run between 50K and 55K, with a tread life expectancy of only 40K. The tires were perfectly worn, as I did rotate them correctly and I kept them inflated. Now change vehicals, Mini Vans and compact SUVs, I currently have a van, ny inlaws the SUV, and my parents had a mini van as well. All of these vehicles are sent from the factory with "touring" tires, IE tires that should be run at 40 plus PSI, however Ford does not allow PSI markings on the tire from the factory. Each and everyone of these tire has to be replaced at 40 to 50K, and none have had even wear across the tread (ie from outside to inside edge of tire). They have been evenly worn on the edges both inside and outside being warn the same but the center section of the tire has usable tread remaining. There is only one way to accomplish that, and that is running the tire under inflated. Radials under inflated will accually allow the the center of the tread to lift up (think off of the road in the very center of the tire) unlike a bias ply tire which will actually increase it contact patch with less air. Now you may say thats the owner not rotating, (Not really) or its driving style (seen my mother inlaw drive). I will agree that being front wheel drive and the natural lifting of the front end during acceleration from 0 does cause the tires to tip in and put extra wear to the out edge, and being these are also turning tire the inside is also abused harder, but proper rotation should and does minize this offset wear however only when the tire is inflate to the TIRE MANUFACTURE'S COLD PSI rating. Sorry about the lenght, years of arguing with some tire tech who lowers the PSI in my tire and then balances them. So that when they get proper re-inflated the balance is slightly off (I had it happen a time or 2).:annoyed:
Yeah thats still wrong. IF you inflate the tire to the max cold PSI then you ARE at the maximum recommended tire pressure for that tire and when you drive around on it the tire heats up and inflates ABOVE what you had it set at. This is why auto manufactures recommend lower PSI be ran in the tires because once the tire heats up the PSI will be right where it needs to be at with out going dangerously over and having a possible blowout. Also I have contacted a few tire manufactures when I was work at tire stores becuase people believed that they were supposed to inflate the tires to what the tire said and Firestone/Bridgestone and BFG all said that that was the MAXIMUM pressure for the tires and that you ALWAYS obey the manufactures sticker.

Also another reason you go with the cars sticker is because of the wieght and weight distrubution. A truck like our rangers... its a small light truck and they reccommend like 33psi front and 29 rear Why? because the engine has more weight to it then the empty bed. Some cars reccommend even pressures across the tires because they have an even balance or they are AWD and such. Believe it or not but the car manufacturers actually spend a decent amount of tire figuring out what the best possible tire pressure to run in the cars are before they put those stickers on.
 

strvger

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^^ since you've given me the choice, i'll choose not to believe it. at least until i stop having to replace oem tires on every new vehicle i buy within the first month of ownership. the originals are always such unbelievably poor performers it's a waste of rubber. if they can't get the right tires on a vehicle, how can i expect them to be any better about pressures? but that's just me.
 

Original_Ranger84

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^^ since you've given me the choice, i'll choose not to believe it. at least until i stop having to replace oem tires on every new vehicle i buy within the first month of ownership. the originals are always such unbelievably poor performers it's a waste of rubber. if they can't get the right tires on a vehicle, how can i expect them to be any better about pressures? but that's just me.
They don't actually really care about tires, they usually put the cheapest tires they can on a vehicle to sell it because most people wouldn't know the difference, not to mention they can get you to pay an extra grand on their performance tires.
 

TomB1269

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Yeah thats still wrong. IF you inflate the tire to the max cold PSI then you ARE at the maximum recommended tire pressure for that tire and when you drive around on it the tire heats up and inflates ABOVE what you had it set at. This is why auto manufactures recommend lower PSI be ran in the tires because once the tire heats up the PSI will be right where it needs to be at with out going dangerously over and having a possible blowout. Also I have contacted a few tire manufactures when I was work at tire stores becuase people believed that they were supposed to inflate the tires to what the tire said and Firestone/Bridgestone and BFG all said that that was the MAXIMUM pressure for the tires and that you ALWAYS obey the manufactures sticker.

Also another reason you go with the cars sticker is because of the wieght and weight distrubution. A truck like our rangers... its a small light truck and they reccommend like 33psi front and 29 rear Why? because the engine has more weight to it then the empty bed. Some cars reccommend even pressures across the tires because they have an even balance or they are AWD and such. Believe it or not but the car manufacturers actually spend a decent amount of tire figuring out what the best possible tire pressure to run in the cars are before they put those stickers on.
Every Tire I have every read (over 15 plus years of driving and working on cars) the PSI listed on the tire stated MAX PSI COLD. IE the max pressure in which you set the tire at when COLD. As for heat up, absolutely, I go to Sear or like in the winter for work on a tire. The trucks in the bay for 2 hours the tire is re-inflated, driven outside and set at 20 degrees, and the tire will read 4 to 5 psi below the pressure in which it had been inflated to in the bay. I have also measured heat build up while traveling, 80 to 90 degree day temps at highway speeds will add 3 to 5 psi in pressure from what the tire started out at the same air temp at speeds from 65 to 75 mph. Lastly, You are complete incorrect on the truck. The rear tires per Ford are 35 rear 30 front, and that is for load capacity. The tire needs to be fully inflated for full load capacity, and by the way the Ranger (or my 2002 Edge) is very particular about the front PSI any thing over 32 PSI COLD and the front end tends to track on the road (ie follow grooves, cracks etc), and so I run them between 30 and 32 PSI COLD, and yes the frontend is in excellent shape, no part issues( Tie rod, ball joint, wheel bearing, etc) :icon_thumby:
 

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