Need Help with Codes and better understanding Please!

Hello all, and first of all thank you ahead of time for your time etc=)

So, today I did my own DIY light test, both KOEO/KOER

KOEO: I got code 33

KOER: I got codes 42, 73, 25.

I have looked up the codes, as far as 33 goes, could it possibly be in memory with me recently putting in a new egr valve with vacuum line? I just ordered the sensor for it also. Should I attempt tot errase the code afterwards?

73, I have a new TPS also, from what I read, I need to adjust 25% while truck is running? Is this correct?

25, Knock sensor. Says to ignore if no pinging. Can someone tell me more what the pinging would sound like? Otherwise I dont really think there is a ping at all.

43, system rich-fuel control. How would I go about correcting this?

When truck is warm and idling, I took vacuum off egr valve, no difference in truck at all. I also plugged both the line leading to the sensor as well the nipple coming off the egr valve itself with no difference again. sensor at fault?

MAP- I took off the vacuum coming off the intake and truck struggled, but did idle very weakly with black exhaust coming out tail pipe. Tried blowing into the hose that was still hooked up to the MAP, no difference there rather than just the rough idle do to it not being on the intake.

Truck struggles uphill speeds, also acceleration is very slow and weak now. Flooring the peddle makes the engine rev high, but no gain. Ease off the peddle some and the power increases slightly, but no on a incline.

Any ideas and help is greatly appreciated, and thank you very much.

I have just order a new MAP sensor, egr valve pressure sensor, intake air temp sensor, and trans output sensor.

Bump. 51 views and no advice or knowledge?
Please help!

Another free bump. And welcome to TRS. This is something I'm not good at so you'll have to wait for a more knowledgeable member to answer. It can take awhile sometimes....

Codes can't be taken literally, the english translation of the computer binary code is just that a very loose translation.

I.E. a lean code doesn't mean the engine is running lean, same as rich code doesn't mean rich, lol
Both mean computer is adding more fuel or less fuel than it "thinks" it should, based on other data.

Use a volt meter to set TPS voltage.
get a sewing pin and volt meter
Pierce the TPS center wire with the pin
Turn on the key
Voltage on center wire should be .69-.99 volts, under 1 volt when throttle is closed.
There is a bit of an adjustment with TPS bolts
There is also an adjustment on the throttle linkage, looks like idle screw but it isn't.
After getting closed throttle voltage set, open throttle and voltage should go up, at wide open throttle(WOT) voltage should be above 4.5volts, 4.51-5.00v

EGR valve isn't used when engine is cold or when it is warm and idling.
EGR valve opens when accelerating or engine is under load, exhaust gases are added to the intake air to slow combustion in the cylinders, this keeps the cylinder temps lower so less NOx emissions, also less pinging.

If you have a rough idle the test would be to pull vacuum hose off the EGR valve, and see if it has vacuum, it shouldn't, it it doesn't then EGR solenoid, what computer uses to control vacuum to EGR Valve, is leaking or open when it shouldn't be.
Put another vacuum hose on EGR valve and suck on it, idle should get worse, then blow in the hose, if idle gets better then EGR valve spring is weak.

You kind of have to think like a computer to understand the codes, if a part or sensor is mentioned in the english translation then that part or sensor is probably OK, the code comes from that part or sensor reporting the problem to the computer.
So "don't shoot the messenger" by replacing the part or sensor that reported the problem.

I know then "whats the point of the codes", the point is that we are way smarter than the computer, so if we think "dumb" we can figure out what the computer is saying with it's 1's and 0's, if/then, and/or logic.

Don't over think it.

If code says voltage is too high or too low then that's all it is, you measure the voltage, could be bad wire or connector, at the device or at the computer.