• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Instrument Voltage Regulator


Charles

New Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2011
Messages
89
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Vehicle Year
1987
1988
Make / Model
ford Bronco II
Transmission
Automatic
what are the symptoms of this going bad? what all gauges/lights does this control and is there an easy way to determine if it is bad?

I've got a temp gauge that died, and a fuel gauge not working correctly. both could be separate problems, or not......
 


Psychopete

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2007
Messages
3,201
Reaction score
29
Points
48
Location
FW, IN
Transmission
Automatic
what are the symptoms of this going bad? what all gauges/lights does this control and is there an easy way to determine if it is bad?

I've got a temp gauge that died, and a fuel gauge not working correctly. both could be separate problems, or not......
If I remember right, it was only a few gauges, but it's been so long that I can't remember which ones. I want to say that there is only one that the regulator did not go to, but it's been at least 2 years since I went through it with a meter. I can say becareful with what you end up doing, the main power to the cluster used resistor wire according to my EVTM for my 1988 Ranger. When I installed my custom cluster, I ran a separate power wire from the fuse box to avoid that.

I would start simple and check the temp sending unit first (ground it). The speedometer cable in the back of those clusters aren't much fun to get out, but it's not too hard to unhook the speedometer cable, unscrew the strap near the gas pedal (might be more ???) to be able to get the cluster far enough forward to unhook it.
 

Charles

New Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2011
Messages
89
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Vehicle Year
1987
1988
Make / Model
ford Bronco II
Transmission
Automatic
Thanks for the input. I figured it out.:icon_thumby: i'll post the info here on this site in case others run across the same problem. While Googling, I did find a few people reporting the same problem.

The problem I found was the key ignition switch is worn out, making bad electrical connection.

At first I wiggled some wires around, damn thing started working. I'm thinking" Hell yeah!"

drove it, all worked fine.

Parked it, come back, temp gauge and Fuel gauge not working. I tried wiggle some connectors, no dice.

So a bad connection to the panel was not the problem.

But I noticed, sometimes it would work, sometimes it wouldn't. The only common thing was....I was turning the key on and off.

So after wiggling the key, just barely, I was able to reproduce the failure mode.

What made it easiest to figure out was getting the vehicle at temp first and watching the temp gauge. The temp gauge response faster than the fuel gauge, so if you do this while watching the fuel gauge, you could miss it. With the temp at normal though, the temp gauge responds quicker. you can see when you loose connection.

wiggling the key, just pushing it forward slightly, made it work, but if it slips back a little, just a very little, it's enough to cause an open.


I hope this helps someone in the future.


I still want to know how that cable disconnects from the speedometer. I was trying by reaching up from under the dash and coming in from behind with my hand. can't see what I'm doing. I can feel the cable turn around easily but I cannot feel how it disconnects.
 

Psychopete

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2007
Messages
3,201
Reaction score
29
Points
48
Location
FW, IN
Transmission
Automatic
I still want to know how that cable disconnects from the speedometer. I was trying by reaching up from under the dash and coming in from behind with my hand. can't see what I'm doing. I can feel the cable turn around easily but I cannot feel how it disconnects.
There's a tab area on it that you push down on and it slides strait back. It can be a pain to get. I tried one time from the bottom - definitely got further than I did :D
 

holyford86

Some guy with a problem
Supporting Member
Article Contributor
RBV's on Boost
GMRS Radio License
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
2,213
Reaction score
610
Points
113
Age
37
Location
Plattsburgh, NY
Vehicle Year
many
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
7
Tire Size
33x12.50R15
There's a tab area on it that you push down on and it slides strait back. It can be a pain to get. I tried one time from the bottom - definitely got further than I did :D
Disconnecting from the bottom is the easiest way I've done it, feel for the tab on the plastic collar all the way up behind the cluster, push it towards the cable. I had my IVR go bad on me at one point, my gas gauge (only factory gauge I use) pegged right out, went right off the full side of the scale. Ended up finding out what the output voltage is (it's really pulsed voltage, all it is is is a set of contacts inside a little box) it's 5 volts, used a solid state voltage regulator and made a circuit in an enclosure for a little more than the cost of the IVR and it works perfectly
 

holyford86

Some guy with a problem
Supporting Member
Article Contributor
RBV's on Boost
GMRS Radio License
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
2,213
Reaction score
610
Points
113
Age
37
Location
Plattsburgh, NY
Vehicle Year
many
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
7
Tire Size
33x12.50R15
yep, that's it
 

mojocat27

New Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2011
Messages
10
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
Bronco II
Transmission
Manual
Neither of my gauges are working....never had since I got my BII. I am hoping this is the problem. Where is this so I can tell the ol man to check it?
 

Charles

New Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2011
Messages
89
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Vehicle Year
1987
1988
Make / Model
ford Bronco II
Transmission
Automatic
I removed the plastic pieces around the steering column to expose the key ignition switch, the wiper switch, headlight switch......fairly easy on my '87 Bronco II, no tilt steering, a little more cumbersome on my '88 Ranger with tilt steering.

There is a large connector on the right side. check it to see if it is loose.

Seems the tension from the wire cluster has a bad habit of working this loose.
I used some zip ties to lock back into place. so far, this seems to be the culprit. I haven't had time drive around to see if the problem comes back, but after securing this connector in place so it wont slip back, the problem has not come back even when I play with the key switch. no idea how a loose connector at that location and a slight turn of the key switch could cause the gauges to not function, maybe it's not the problem at all, but it's at least a simple, easy place to start looking.

I had the same problem many, many years ago on my '88 Ranger, I can't remember what was happening, I do remember the connector coming loose and I had to zip tie it in place. It solved the issue back then, whatever it was, hopefully it solves the problem now.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Staff online

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Truck of The Month


Shran
April Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Top