4.0 head removal

96-ranger · May 8, 2015

Ed, thanks for al you help and suggestions Prior to posting I replaced the radiator and heater control valve because of seeing coolant at these parts. I will try and look at the freeze out plugs and also try the additive to the coolant that will show un under a black light. As much as I don't want to I may have to take it to a dealer and see what they find. Don't know what other tests they could run that I have not tried. Will update as I progress/regress. thanks again this forum has been a great place for useful info.

ant.xlt.96 · May 17, 2015

Curious if OP figured out the problem. I had a similar issue with my 96 xlt 4.0. Went through a gallon of coolant a week at the minimum. Didn't have oil and coolant mixing, nor did I get a positive result on the combustive gas /radiator pressure test.

After dealing with this for a month, I FINALLY got coolant in the exhaust. Ended up tearing the engine down to the block and changed out all gaskets and did a liberal application of ultra black RTV around coolant ports. No cracked heads, so sanded them down a bit and reinstalled. No problems and engine runs like a top now.

Hope you get this figured out!

96-ranger · May 30, 2015

Greetings. I have put the coolant issue on the back burner to work on other cars so all I have been doing is adding coolant. Hope to get back on this before I have a major breakdown. Gary

96-ranger · Jul 28, 2015

Looks like my coolant issue has finally been found. I can now see coolant seeping/dripping from both heads. Now the question is do I want to tackle this or farm it out. A quick once over under the hood and the first thing that jumps out at me are removal of the exhaust manifolds from the Y pipe and also the air tube that connects to the left side manifold just above the flange. As a member suggested earlier I checked with a muffler shop for them to remove the bolts but they said only if they were replacing the Y pipe. My question to those of you that have done head gaskets what would be any major issues I should be aware of and those of you that have farmed out the job what kind of $$$$ are we looking at? For the past 40+ years I have maintained my own vehicles, brakes, timing belts, tune ups ......
One question - does this motor require a special Ford antifreeze or is the regular Prestone anitifreeze sufficient. I know on my Dodge they require a Mopar solution.
Thanks for all you help with this problem
Gary

RonD · Jul 28, 2015

Never heard of coolant coming from the outside of 4.0l heads.
Lower intake gasket is a common leak point, where intake meets the head at the front or back where coolant passages are located.
Core plugs(freeze plugs) can also leak coolant.

The total job cost should be under $300 depending on what you have done to the heads
If you take them off then they should be cleaned and surfaced which is a few days and dollars at machine shop, you need to call for price.
They can also install new valve guide seals for you if you don't have a valve spring compressor tool.
Valve guide seals come with head gasket set.

New set of head bolts is needed

Rest is just wrench work, take lots of pictures, they are free

Any Regular coolant(green) is fine to use, but run water for first start up to make sure there are no leaks.

Newer vehicles are using OAT(organic acid) coolant now(red) it lasts longer, 5 years, compared to 2 years on older silicate(green) coolant.

And yes they shouldn't be mixed, they lose corrosion protection if they are mixed, engine won't blow up or anything.
There is a crossover coolant type called HOAT(hybrid organic acid) that can be used if engine was previously using "green" and you want longer lasting coolant, or you aren't sure which one to use.
One is not "better" that the other it just lasts longer, and so costs more, lol.

And you can't tell coolant by color anymore, Green and Red where used originally but everyone seems to have there own color code now

So read the label, silicate base is older style, OAT is newer, HOAT newest

96-ranger · Jul 29, 2015

Hi Ron
Guess I should clarify the seeping I see. I see it at the left and right head where they bolt to the block. This is on the outside below #2 and #5 spark plug

Gary

RonD · Jul 29, 2015

So under the exhaust manifold but not down as far as the core plugs.

And both heads

Well I certainly haven't seen everything but never would expect that from a 4.0l, or any engine with cast iron block and heads.
Cast iron block and aluminum heads did that often.

96-ranger · Jul 30, 2015

I got an estimate for ~ $1200 from a local shop to replace the head gaskets. That includes pressure checking the heads, new head bolts, coolant, oil & filter and all the gaskets. I live in north east PA, sounds a little high, any comments or suggestions?
Gary

enjr44 · Jul 30, 2015

Before I would spend 1200 bucks to fix a leak that does not affect the way the truck runs, I would give this stuff a try. You don't really have anything to lose and I have never heard of this stuff plugging up anything. Make sure you use the tab type and not some liquid gunk.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Cooling-System-Stop-Leak-Bar-s-Leaks-2-1-oz/_/R-NCBHDC_0424510307

Go here and read this discussion - http://www.cadillacforum.com/forum/faq-46/gm-cadillac-coolant-supplement-2488/ and do what you think is best.

I don't think 1200 is too much to have the described work done; but, it is a lot to spend on a 20 year old truck.

RonD · Jul 30, 2015

Yes, the $1,200 is not out of line in most areas.

Should be about 8 hours shop time to R&R the heads.

But since this is an almost unheard of leak point, and on both heads, I would spend a few dollars in the UV dye kit($30-$50), that will give you the exact leak point.
And this can be used with transmissions and axles, even AC, and of course on other vehicles so not just for this.

How long have you own this truck, maybe a DIYer did the heads before and did it wrong, that would make me relax a little before dropping the $1,200

96-ranger · Aug 1, 2015

Ron, I bought the truck last summer from the original owner with ~53k miles on it. I'm pretty sure nothing was done to the motor.
Gary

RonD · Aug 1, 2015

Because it is almost 20 years old and only had 53k on it I would just do the heads, there may be alot of sludge in there and the seals will all be dried out.
And that might explain the seepage on the heads, engine may have sat for a long while with no coolant in it so gaskets dried out around coolant passages in head, and cracked.

The benefit of low mile vehicles is that the interior and exterior are usually very clean.
The drawback is the drive train can have sludge and dried out seals, the lower the per year miles the more the problem.
53k at 20 years is about 2,700 miles a year, 200+ miles a month

So it either sat alot or was driven short distances and never warmed up(15min. or longer drive)

96-ranger · Sep 21, 2015

Greeting
Just a quick note to thank everyone for their help on this project. I completed the head gasket job over the weekend and so far everything looks good. But as luck would have it I noticed the odometer has stopped working when I took it out for a test drive.
regards
Gary

4.0 head removal

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