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96 ranger 3L automatic 2WD - ideas?


98v70dad

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I've been patiently waiting for the new ford ranger so I can buy one. I'm interested in a 4x4 diesel crew cab (if that combo happens) . In the meantime my dad gave me his 96 Ranger with 49,000 miles which isn't ideal for my uses but its FREE. I pick up the truck next weekend.

I want to use it for towing a lightweight fiberglass camper (like a scamp or casita) and to get me to my backpacking destinations which sometimes includes fording fairly shallow streams and always involves driving on forest service rutted roads. I dont plan to tow a trailer on the FS roads.

I've read that the 3.0L isn't great for towing but it will get by with a light weight trailer. I'm already planning to replace the drum brakes with mustang disks and have been considering maybe a winch to compensate for not having 4WD. Forest service roads don't usually require a 4WD but if you get stuck you get stuck with little chance of help coming along.

I'm in Georgia so snow and ice isn't a big issue. Anyhow, my question is what simple mods could I do to this truck to make it more suited to my uses? Since 96 its been a suburban second "car" at my dad's place.
 


RonD

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Welcome to TRS :)

3.0l is a high RPM engine
Most engines make best torque , 2,300-2,700 RPM

1996 3.0l best torque is at 3,250RPM, lowest RPM year, most years you needed to be 3,500 or better
So if you drive like "most engines" it will be gutless, don't be afraid of getting into the torque band above 3,000RPMs it is how it was designed
3.0l info here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/3_0performance.shtml

Look at the door sticker, seen here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/axle_codes.shtml

Lower part will have AXLE code
Look it up
You want/need a 3.73 or 4.10 for pulling a trailer

Most likely it will be an OPEN differential so if one rear wheel starts to slip it gets all the power.
You can get more aggressive tires, so one wheel doesn't slip, lol

One trick you can use to get unstuck when using OPEN axles is to use e-brake
Hold e-brake release handle out
Have the one wheel spinning a little and push down on e-brake pedal slowly
The spinning wheel will start to slow and the "dead" wheel will start to turn and hopefully push you out of trouble
Its a "learned" skill, and can come in handy
Never tried this with disc brakes on the rear, I have with drums

Many Ranger 4x4s came with Limited-slip rear axles(some 2WD), 1993 and up will bolt into your 1996

Sand or mud ladders are not expensive and don't take up much room
Tires chains are also good to carry, they are not just for snow and ice :)

Yes, a winch is not a bad idea or even a come-along with some chain and cable
You don't want alot of cable on the winch drum
A winches rating is on EMPTY drum, every layer of cable reduces torque so keep that in mind, better to carry extra cable in the bed, not on the drum
ALWAYS put a floor mat or blanket over the middle of the cable as your pull, if cable snaps/separates this will absorb "most" of the energy, not all, but it can save your life or windshield, lol.

Small 12volt air compressor, letting air out of the tires, down to about 15psi, will help in muddy situation, or sand, being able to pump them back up enough to get to a "real air compressor" is better for the tires
 
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98v70dad

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Thanks for the comments. I've been checking out the website for about 6 months and there is a lot of good info and know how here.

I'm not positive its a 3.0L (I'll find out) but based on my dad's buying habits it probably is. He doesn't like 4 cylinder cars and he never spends extra for a bigger engine. Maybe I'll be surprised and it will be a 4.0. A V8 engine swap sounds like a fun project BUT I really want a 4WD and the swap is a lot of work to still not have what I need when its done. The V8 would get me a good tow vehicle though for the light trailer I want to pull with it.

One of the places I like to go backpacking requires crossing a stream. I've owned a small 2WD pick up before and if the water level is up I'd be afraid to do it with 2WD since traction in the back is usually not so good. There are lots of slippery rocks on the bottom. I guess I can always get someone else to drive on the stream crossing trip. All of the other places I go are just forest service roads and unless its raining really hard they are usually very passable with a daily driver. They'll beat your car to death but they are passable.

Its a nice little truck to get for free and its been garaged its entire lift. It literally looks like it was just bought yesterday. BUT its not anywhere close to what I wanted or need. I had my eye on the new Ranger 4x4 or new Frontier or Colorado. GM products that I've owned haven't been very reliable and the Ford and Nissan introduction dates seem to just keep slipping further out. I'll just make do for a couple of years and see how it goes. $32K for new vs free is an easy choice for now.

My other car (daily driver) is a 20 year old Volvo station wagon. I am the mechanic on it and short of an engine or tranny replacement I've done everything its needed since I bought the car used 10 years ago ($1500). Its needed a lot but by doing it myself its been a cheap ride.
 

98v70dad

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Welcome to TRS :)

3.0l is a high RPM engine
Most engines make best torque , 2,300-2,700 RPM

1996 3.0l best torque is at 3,250RPM, lowest RPM year, most years you needed to be 3,500 or better
So if you drive like "most engines" it will be gutless, don't be afraid of getting into the torque band above 3,000RPMs it is how it was designed
3.0l info here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/3_0performance.shtml

Look at the door sticker, seen here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/axle_codes.shtml

Lower part will have AXLE code
Look it up
You want/need a 3.73 or 4.10 for pulling a trailer

Most likely it will be an OPEN differential so if one rear wheel starts to slip it gets all the power.
You can get more aggressive tires, so one wheel doesn't slip, lol

One trick you can use to get unstuck when using OPEN axles is to use e-brake
Hold e-brake release handle out
Have the one wheel spinning a little and push down on e-brake pedal slowly
The spinning wheel will start to slow and the "dead" wheel will start to turn and hopefully push you out of trouble
Its a "learned" skill, and can come in handy
Never tried this with disc brakes on the rear, I have with drums

Many Ranger 4x4s came with Limited-slip rear axles(some 2WD), 1993 and up will bolt into your 1996

Sand or mud ladders are not expensive and don't take up much room
Tires chains are also good to carry, they are not just for snow and ice :)

Yes, a winch is not a bad idea or even a come-along with some chain and cable
You don't want alot of cable on the winch drum
A winches rating is on EMPTY drum, every layer of cable reduces torque so keep that in mind, better to carry extra cable in the bed, not on the drum
ALWAYS put a floor mat or blanket over the middle of the cable as your pull, if cable snaps/separates this will absorb "most" of the energy, not all, but it can save your life or windshield, lol.

Small 12volt air compressor, letting air out of the tires, down to about 15psi, will help in muddy situation, or sand, being able to pump them back up enough to get to a "real air compressor" is better for the tires
Thanks RonD. Some good ideas. Apparently you covered the basis since nobody else has anything to say. Over at the volvo site I belong to I would have gotten a lot more replies.

I've been trying to find the ground clearance info for the 96 XLT and haven't been able to find it. For some reason I haven't found it listed with the other more typical specs. I was thinking of doing a minor lift when I change out the 20 year old shocks. I think it would be a help on the rutted forest service roads. Knowing the stock clearance would help me decide if I need to do it and how much.
 

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Thanks RonD. Some good ideas. Apparently you covered the basis since nobody else has anything to say. Over at the volvo site I belong to I would have gotten a lot more replies.
Sometimes things are a bit slow, but your patience here will be rewarded. I sometimes hold my comments until someone more experienced has entered the conversation unless it is a topic where I know I am an expert.

Increasing your ground clearance for off-road driving is usually a good idea if you can do it. Depending on your budget, a small suspension lift would be helpful. But increasing tire size can help also. Bigger tires help you gain clearance under the axles as well as the rest of the undercarriage. The drawback there is that you lose torque at the wheels. If you decide to change gearing anyway, just add the tire change into your plans when choosing gear ratio.

If you can't find an axle with limited slip differential, it is easy to add an automatic locker such as lock-rite, Aussie or some other brand. These can usually be installed without removing the carrier from the housing. The drawback is increased tire wear and some noise when turning sharp corners.

Eric B
 
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stmitch

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It sounds like you've got the basics covered. Decent tires, some type of limited slip or locker for the rear, and a winch to get you out of a jam. Adding bigger tires or a lift is fine for off-roading, but it will make towing harder. Until we know more details about the truck, it's hard to give more specific advice. Just make sure that your load doesn't exceed the capacity of the truck and keep the auto trans cool.
 

98v70dad

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It sounds like you've got the basics covered. Decent tires, some type of limited slip or locker for the rear, and a winch to get you out of a jam. Adding bigger tires or a lift is fine for off-roading, but it will make towing harder. Until we know more details about the truck, it's hard to give more specific advice. Just make sure that your load doesn't exceed the capacity of the truck and keep the auto trans cool.
Thanks. I plan to put in a transmission cooler and whatever else came with the tow package if I do any towing in addition to rear disk brakes. I'm just doing some planning right now.
 

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98v70dad:

Mustang rear brakes have nice 'bling' but they were made for stopping a car, not a truck towing a trailer.*

Far better choice is an Explorer axle/discs (better still is '10-11 Ranger axle with vented discs). The Explorer discs are larger in diameter than even the Cobra discs and the calipers provide almost 2X the stopping force. You might get lucky and find limited slip and 4.10s in Explorer Axle. (F-150 lowering flip kit can be used to mount Explorer axle under springs if you don't want to weld).

*I couldn't figure out why people thought the Mustang discs were so great until I came across an article which talked about the stock drums not providing any whoa**. The issue came down to adjustment/maintenance. As I always check the drum brakes when I do the spring/fall tire changes, my adjusters were always still working/brakes didn't have time to get "out of adjustment". Result was drums weren't that bad...

**My experience was the opposite: Mustang discs on my daughter's Ranger were crap - unless you regularly used the parking brake, they would go out of adjustment, but if you pushed too hard on the parking pedal, they would still drag even after pedal was released (they were designed to work with a hand lever, not foot) and wear out pads. And they didn't stop the wheels particularly well; even when they were working. 2 sets of calipers/3 sets of pads later, Mustang disc were replaced with Explorer axle. (The next to new calipers went into my son's Mustang, so I have 2 sets of experienced Mustang calipers to give away).

Good tires, some weight back e.g. gas cans on tailgate and chains will get you almost everywhere a 4x4 does.
 

98v70dad

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98v70dad:

Mustang rear brakes have nice 'bling' but they were made for stopping a car, not a truck towing a trailer.*

Far better choice is an Explorer axle/discs (better still is '10-11 Ranger axle with vented discs). The Explorer discs are larger in diameter than even the Cobra discs and the calipers provide almost 2X the stopping force. You might get lucky and find limited slip and 4.10s in Explorer Axle. (F-150 lowering flip kit can be used to mount Explorer axle under springs if you don't want to weld).

*I couldn't figure out why people thought the Mustang discs were so great until I came across an article which talked about the stock drums not providing any whoa**. The issue came down to adjustment/maintenance. As I always check the drum brakes when I do the spring/fall tire changes, my adjusters were always still working/brakes didn't have time to get "out of adjustment". Result was drums weren't that bad...

**My experience was the opposite: Mustang discs on my daughter's Ranger were crap - unless you regularly used the parking brake, they would go out of adjustment, but if you pushed too hard on the parking pedal, they would still drag even after pedal was released (they were designed to work with a hand lever, not foot) and wear out pads. And they didn't stop the wheels particularly well; even when they were working. 2 sets of calipers/3 sets of pads later, Mustang disc were replaced with Explorer axle. (The next to new calipers went into my son's Mustang, so I have 2 sets of experienced Mustang calipers to give away).

Good tires, some weight back e.g. gas cans on tailgate and chains will get you almost everywhere a 4x4 does.
Thanks for the info -
 

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I would have no issue leaving the drums on. You may also have a 7.5 rear axle and there would be no easy to way to put discs on it anyway.

I have towed trailers a lot with most of my Rangers - your truck will pull a light camper around no problem. A bigger transmission cooler would be an important upgrade, though. I regularly pull a 4x9 utility trailer behind my 4 cylinder Ranger and it's almost like the two were meant to be together. It pulls so good, even loaded down with scrap iron or whatever.

A winch would be nice for your adventures - you could build a front receiver hitch for the truck and mount the winch to a receiver hitch cradle. I did that on mine - the winch regularly gets swapped between the Ranger, Explorer and my car trailer.
 

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