crank no start

JoeShoe · Mar 10, 2018

Hello people. This site has helped me many times over the years but now I'm stumped and need advice.
A little backround-i have an 88 2wd regular cab long bed with a 2.3 and a 5 speed. Last week I went out and started the truck, it started right up and ran as usual, then died while idleing in the driveway now turns over but wont restart. I did the usual tests-strong spark from all four plugs. I can hear the inline pump running. Fuel squirts strongly from the schrader valve when I press it. Spraying starter fluid into the intake makes NO DIFFERENCE. If you have spark, that means fuel is likely the issue, then it should start with starter fluid right?
Im Stumped. Any help would be appreciated as my son is coming to town this week and I dont want to have to ride the bus around while he's here lol.
Thanks in advance!

RonD · Mar 10, 2018

Welcome to TRS

First post welcome that is

2.3l Lima engine uses a Timing Belt, if it hasn't been changed in awhile(50K+) it can just break and engine will no longer run or start.
Broken timing belt doesn't hurt the Lima engines, it is a non-interference engine

You can usually see the timing belt(or Cam Gear) behind its cover on the front of the engine
have someone crank engine while you watch to make sure belt/cam gear is turning.

Try 50/50 test
Spray gasoline or ether(quick start) into the engine and crank it

If it starts and dies then fuel is the problem, having fuel pressure doesn't mean injectors are opening

If it doesn't start then Spark or compression(timing belt) is the problem.

50/50, quick and easy test

JoeShoe · Mar 10, 2018

Thanks man. I can see that the timing belt is in tact and turning when I crank. I tried carb cleaner in the intake and nothing.

JoeShoe · Mar 10, 2018

Thanks man. I can see that the timing belt is in tact and turning when I crank. I tried carb cleaner in the intake and nothing. Good spark at the plugs.

JoeShoe · Mar 10, 2018

Good spark at the plugs.

RonD · Mar 10, 2018

If your 1988 has a distributor then it is out of time, or you have low compression

Because if you add fuel manually and engine does not start its down to spark or compression, for sure

You say there is spark
So it's not at the right time OR you have low compression

Gasoline engines are simple in that they only need 3 things to start and run:
Fuel, in the right mix with air
Spark, at the right time
Compression, above 100psi to pre-heat fuel for spark ignition

Ether(Quick Start) is used as a starting fluid because it has a much lower ignition point than gasoline or diesel, so great to start COLD COLD engines, or if compression is low

tomw · Mar 11, 2018

Just because the cam is turning does not mean that it is still timed properly. If you rotate the crankshaft to TDC, then remove the plastic plug behind the upper radiator hose. Look at the cam sprocket for a triangle on its edge. The triangle should align with the mark on the front of the head at about the 4:00 o'clock position. Additionally, the cam sensor( i think) mounted to the rear of the auxiliary shaft, needs to be timed. If the belt lost a few teeth, it can still turn, but things won't be timed, and the engine will likely not run.
There are better instructions on how to check than this, but just looking may verify cam timing anyway.
tom

JoeShoe · Mar 12, 2018

Thanks again guys. Sorry I didn't respond faster. It's a pain to post on here from my phone.
I'll check timing again. Like I said, it started up and idled normal until it just died.
What do you guys think of a possible bad ICM? It was dying last summer when it was really hot (I live in Arizona). I know that's a classic symptom of a bad ICM. My mechanic buddy seems to think that would cause it to not start when it has fuel. I mentioned that there was spark at the plugs, he said it may still have spark and not run if the ICM is bad.

JoeShoe · Mar 12, 2018

My truck has a distributor mounted ICM. Do I have to remove the distributor to get the ICM out?

tomw · Mar 13, 2018

The ignition module can be removed without pulling the distributor. You will need a thin-walled socket to loosen the fasteners that hold it onto the distributor base. Auto parts stores sell a tool that has the correct size socket attached to a handle.
Once you get the screws out, you can slide the module downward from the bowl of the distributor. There are three connectors that stick directly upward from the module that are pushed into the bottom of the distributor, so you have to slide it down to get them out.
The new module should come with 'heat sink compound', the white goo that makes heat transfer better. It must be smeared onto the module before installation. The corresponding spot on the distributor should be wiped clean prior to installing the module. You must place the module and line up the connectors, and then gently shove the module upward. The pickup that the connectors shove into gets weak with age, and may start to fall apart, so be careful when installing, and if it seems the 'spades' are not going in cleanly, back off and check that they are aligned properly. You don't want to have to replace the pickup as you have to disassemble the distributor completely to do so. Not fun. The gear does NOT want to come off, nor go back on without some persuasion.
Once you have the module up in place, install the screws and tighten. The compound will spread as you tighten. Disconnect the 'spout' jumper, and set the timing to 10BTDC with the engine warmed and at idle. Re-install the jumper after, or the timing will stay at a fixed 10degrees.
tom

JoeShoe · Mar 13, 2018

Thanks Tom. Do you think a bad ICM would cause my symptoms? Like I said it was dying in the heat last summer. It died the other day just after starting it in the morning, it wasn't even warmed up yet. Then wouldn't restart.

tomw · Mar 14, 2018

If you have no spark when it dies, the ICM could be a prime suspect. You can get a spare coil for testing, they are not expensive, or you could get a used from a boneyard. When it next happens, pull the wire leading from the coil to the center of the distributor cap, and shove a spare spark plug into the socket, crank. There should be sparking from the plug.
If not, connect the spare coil to the vehicle wiring, ground it, and connect the spark plug and coil wire. Crank. If you get spark, you have a coil that is heat sensitive, or the ICM recovered in the time it took to do all this testing.
If you do get spark from the get go, and it will not start, you may have a fuel problem. Test by squirting fuel down a vacuum line into the intake, crank. If it fires on the fuel stuffed into the intake, but wont' run, you likely have a fuel problem. A pump can provide pressure, but not deliver fuel if its flow is restricted, such as by a fuel sock in the tank on the pickup, or the fuel filter.
tom

JoeShoe · Mar 14, 2018

Oh it won't start at all. Last summer it would die when it was really hot out, but would start and run after it cooled down. It been running good since the weather cooled off. About two weeks ago I started it in the morning. It started and idled as usual for a couple minutes then cut out and won't restart. I checked spark and all four plugs are getting it. I checked fuel at the Schrader valve, it squirted with some pressure. I could hear the inline pump prime. I sprayed carb cleaner directly into the intake via by taking the air hose off and spraying it past the throttle plate. Nothing.

crank no start

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