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2.5 head on 2.3 block


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So i have a cylinder head 2.5 no year idea and the intake manifold goes on but there a port missing in the middle of the head its a very small port right in the middle? Does anyone know if i can just still attach it? It doesnt let me put up pictures.
 


Mark_88

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From everything I've read on this the 2.5 head will go on the 2.3 block. You will have the same issue with finding the intake to work but anything from 93 and up should work...but, again, you will still need to find the intake to match that style head.

The truck I had the previous owner installed the 2.5 into a 96 Ranger and used the intake and exhaust from the 96 and it worked great. That was using the long block (head and block together) from a 2.5.

Are you saying the intake from your 89 bolts up to the 2.5 head? Bonus...

Just to be safe...order head gaskets for both engines and overlay them like I mentioned before...if they line up then the head will work. you can return one if you don't use it...last time I purchased one it was $50 so ask about returns...

The problem with the centre hole in the head can be fixed by simply not attaching the hose to the intake like it is on your engine...remove the splitter that runs from the heater rad hoses and the intake...just run a single hose from the water pump to the heater core...

It helps atomize the fuel on older carbed engines and not sure why they kept that on fuel injected engines back then...maybe someone else can elaborate...
 
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From everything I've read on this the 2.5 head will go on the 2.3 block. You will have the same issue with finding the intake to work but anything from 93 and up should work...but, again, you will still need to find the intake to match that style head.

The truck I had the previous owner installed the 2.5 into a 96 Ranger and used the intake and exhaust from the 96 and it worked great. That was using the long block (head and block together) from a 2.5.

Are you saying the intake from your 89 bolts up to the 2.5 head? Bonus...

Just to be safe...order head gaskets for both engines and overlay them like I mentioned before...if they line up then the head will work. you can return one if you don't use it...last time I purchased one it was $50 so ask about returns...

The problem with the centre hole in the head can be fixed by simply not attaching the hose to the intake like it is on your engine...remove the splitter that runs from the heater rad hoses and the intake...just run a single hose from the water pump to the heater core...

It helps atomize the fuel on older carbed engines and not sure why they kept that on fuel injected engines back then...maybe someone else can elaborate...
You been so much help , so my ranger block is 91 sorry for not inc year and the head is 2.5 idk what year but the gasket for head lines up perfectly and the intake gasket and bolts line up and exhaust manifold lines up, only problem is the center outlet thats on the intake manifold and not the head, so could i seal it up or like you said is there something to unplug so what ever runs through their cant?
 

Mark_88

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The intake has a hole in the middle where the coolant passed though the head, correct?

The 2.5 doesn't have the hole where the intake coolant flows so that's not a problem. The intake has an inlet that has a hose that connects to the split on the hose that goes into the heater box...correct?

If you remove the split and leave the hose off the intake the fluid doesn't flow through the intake into the head...so that's not a problem.

You just run the hose from the water pump outlet on the front of the head directly into the heater box and don't worry about the intake. Just plug up the back of the intake (even though it technically won't leak or create a vacuum leak because the coolant and vacuum never mix)...

As long as everything lines up with the intake you should be fine

I was told there were differences in the intakes but I've never had to mix and match with later years...that's were I was out of my league in terms of what will bolt up...but the intake coolant was left out on later years because I guess they figured it either wasn't critical to operation on fuel injection...and I do recall someone recently saying exactly that...
 
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The intake has a hole in the middle where the coolant passed though the head, correct?

The 2.5 doesn't have the hole where the intake coolant flows so that's not a problem. The intake has an inlet that has a hose that connects to the split on the hose that goes into the heater box...correct?

If you remove the split and leave the hose off the intake the fluid doesn't flow through the intake into the head...so that's not a problem.

You just run the hose from the water pump outlet on the front of the head directly into the heater box and don't worry about the intake. Just plug up the back of the intake (even though it technically won't leak or create a vacuum leak because the coolant and vacuum never mix)...

As long as everything lines up with the intake you should be fine

I was told there were differences in the intakes but I've never had to mix and match with later years...that's were I was out of my league in terms of what will bolt up...but the intake coolant was left out on later years because I guess they figured it either wasn't critical to operation on fuel injection...and I do recall someone recently saying exactly that...
Perfect you helped me solve this, everything you said i can do all i need now is that dam thermostat housing that no auto part store has anymore.I have this whole truck redone almost, I stripped interior sanded any rust spots and paint the whole floor with primer restoluem and a rubberrized coat to stop rust, next is finish headliner and speakers and prep truck for a paint job. and new shocks. I also have a brand new 4 plug head i need to sell lol since i bought it on mistake. I really appreciate your help.
 

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I have been running a '98 2.5 long block with my '93 2.3 intake. I have had no problem.
 

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I have been running a '98 2.5 long block with my '93 2.3 intake. I have had no problem.
Good info...not sure if you've seen the previous threads but initially started out with a head that didn't match the intake...this one seems to match so hopefully it will get the project going forward...
 

Mark_88

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Perfect you helped me solve this, everything you said i can do all i need now is that dam thermostat housing that no auto part store has anymore.I have this whole truck redone almost, I stripped interior sanded any rust spots and paint the whole floor with primer restoluem and a rubberrized coat to stop rust, next is finish headliner and speakers and prep truck for a paint job. and new shocks. I also have a brand new 4 plug head i need to sell lol since i bought it on mistake. I really appreciate your help.
I hope this works for you...I used to have two of those because I had one that started to leak so I grabbed a spare when I had the chance...

Good to see it moving forward...the head is worth at least $100...maybe more if it has been tested and no cracks...they are getting harder to find in some areas so don't let it go cheap...or maybe find out how to modify your 8 plug to a 4 plug and get what you need to build a second engine...

I went through 3 heads over 14 years...one short block replaced and finally upgraded to a 2.5 on my last project...if you have a place to store the parts I can almost guarantee you will need them at some point so keep adding to the replacement parts depot and you won't regret it...:icon_thumby:
 
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I hope this works for you...I used to have two of those because I had one that started to leak so I grabbed a spare when I had the chance...

Good to see it moving forward...the head is worth at least $100...maybe more if it has been tested and no cracks...they are getting harder to find in some areas so don't let it go cheap...or maybe find out how to modify your 8 plug to a 4 plug and get what you need to build a second engine...

I went through 3 heads over 14 years...one short block replaced and finally upgraded to a 2.5 on my last project...if you have a place to store the parts I can almost guarantee you will need them at some point so keep adding to the replacement parts depot and you won't regret it...:icon_thumby:
Thanks i actaully have two heads store now one 4 plug one 8 plug. i have a the block to a 2.5 in perfect condition and parts as well and new oil pans. I wonder whats the timing i need to get for the 2.5 head have any knowledge as to timing for the 2.5 heads?
 

Mark_88

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I never actually set the timing on a Fuel Injected engine but I've read enough on here about how to do it...I'm sure someone can bring you up to speed on that...or search on setting timing on the 89 2.3...something about the SPOUT connector removed to set base timing on the DIS or EDIS system...can't remember which one...

Once they removed the Distributor it was mostly handled by sensors interacting with the computer...but putting the head on and setting the valve timing like the older style still applies on that year...I think...
 

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The intake was used for carb'd and EFI engines in the early days of EFI. If you got a Ranger in California, in 1985 at least, it came with EFI. The 49-state emissions versions had a carburetor, I think. Well, some did, anyway, and they used the same lower intake casting, and it didn't hurt for that extra heat even for an injected engine. The heat likely reduced emissions by some amount.
If you remove the upper manifold, I think you could install a carburetor version with little trouble onto the lower. It sure looks the same, but then again, that theory has been proven wrong over and over.
tom
 
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I never actually set the timing on a Fuel Injected engine but I've read enough on here about how to do it...I'm sure someone can bring you up to speed on that...or search on setting timing on the 89 2.3...something about the SPOUT connector removed to set base timing on the DIS or EDIS system...can't remember which one...

Once they removed the Distributor it was mostly handled by sensors interacting with the computer...but putting the head on and setting the valve timing like the older style still applies on that year...I think...
I think i know how to set the timing on the 2.3 i think the triangle goes downward right but do i set timing to 2.5 since its a 2.5 head on a 2.3 block? Also i just realized i got spark plug for the 2.3 head and wires do i need to get 2.5 spark plugs and wires and find out the gap?
 
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I think i found out how to do it apparently the diamond goes straight up 12 o clock i think can anyone confirm?
 

Mark_88

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I tried to find a complete timing document for that year but came up blank...

The cam marker should point to approx 5 o'clock
the crank marker should point to 0* on the crank marker or roughly towards the diamond on the auxiliary gear...but the auxiliary gear is not so critical...

Since you are not changing he block the sensor for timing the engine should do most of the work for you...on the crank...

the plugs and wires are different from what I recall but cross reference them just in case...worst case scenario is the older plugs are too long and can damage the piston...but you can check that by side by side comparison if you know what to look for...depth the electrode is in the combustion chamber....

Best to just cross reference the part numbers online...and get the right ones for the head you are using. the gap should be the same...or use the recommended gap for 89...

Wires are pretty much the same...the plugs go in the same place and you are using the coil packs from the 89 so the connectors from the old ones work...but if you do buy new buy the ones for 89...in case there is a difference in the way they attach to the coil packs.

Only thing I found different on some plugs was on the intake side some came with a tab to help pull the plugs off...in fact I think they all did but I don't really remember now...sorry!
 
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I tried to find a complete timing document for that year but came up blank...

The cam marker should point to approx 5 o'clock
the crank marker should point to 0* on the crank marker or roughly towards the diamond on the auxiliary gear...but the auxiliary gear is not so critical...

Since you are not changing he block the sensor for timing the engine should do most of the work for you...on the crank...

the plugs and wires are different from what I recall but cross reference them just in case...worst case scenario is the older plugs are too long and can damage the piston...but you can check that by side by side comparison if you know what to look for...depth the electrode is in the combustion chamber....

Best to just cross reference the part numbers online...and get the right ones for the head you are using. the gap should be the same...or use the recommended gap for 89...

Wires are pretty much the same...the plugs go in the same place and you are using the coil packs from the 89 so the connectors from the old ones work...but if you do buy new buy the ones for 89...in case there is a difference in the way they attach to the coil packs.

Only thing I found different on some plugs was on the intake side some came with a tab to help pull the plugs off...in fact I think they all did but I don't really remember now...sorry!
Thanks! Really helped turns out older plugs were to long go the ones for 2.5 which are alittle shorter and differents plugs, will the firing order be the same? And i use the same.oil right?, im going to see if i can get this timing right. Also should i put the spark plug in while exhauzt and intake are Still off and do wires later? I just opened the box and the old spark plugs are same lengths but the thread on newer is longer? Wrong ones maybe?
 
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