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alwaysFlOoReD's race truck


ab_slack

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very cool Floored on the second place!
 


alwaysFlOoReD

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2WD / 4WD
4WD
First...the pic to prove I got a trophy;



I wasn't sure if I was going to be able to make it to the races as I'm in the middle of moving my shop. I have a LOT of crap!!! But I decided that I could take the time so I did a quick check of the front bearings and looked for loose bolts and hooked up my tow bar. My 2004 f150 5.4l was bought with a known cam phaser problem which I have temporarily fixed by running thicker oil. Well, it seems that now is the time that it decides it has had enough of the thicker oil and starts running like crap. I pull over after 5 minutes and decide to go back home. Two minutes after that it starts running good again.....WTF! So now I turn around again and head off on the 200 Km trip to TORE - Total Off Road experience, an offroad park south west from Edmonton. I make it with no further problems.

The drivers meeting is supposed to start at noon and like most [all] races I've been to it's late, by what seems like hours. I have bad knees and standing around is one of the worst things I can do for pain. Flop my butt on the ground and start cloud watching...

The way this series is run is a combo of points from side by side 200 foot sand drags, doubl knock out, and a slalom. I seemed to be a little quick on the trigger [tho the wife never complains] and red-lighted the first drag race, won the second, and lost the third. Again it seems the truck is working good, just the driver needs tuning.
In the slaloms you are racing the clock. You get two runs per day. I posted a 1:07 and a 1:05 for the Saturday

There was a roll-over by one of the competitors, a early 90's exploder with a lift and big tires.


He entered as a lark, knowing that he wasn't built for this type of racing. He and his co-driver didn't get hurt but the truck is a write-off. Sorry, I didn't think to get an after pic but he had a go-pro filming the inside of the truck at the time and his wife was filming from the outside. He is posting on youtube. Check it out using the tag/s WORR, TORR, Alberta racing. I haven't seen it yet, hope it's good.

More pics of the site and race trucks and spectators trucks;















^^^ yep, he raced!















The second day of racing ;
I won my first drag and the second...
I redlighted AGAIN!!!
The final race I was extra careful and ended up in a tie! ....then the officials came back and said I lost by 2" in a photo finish. A good time was had by all.
In the slaloms I didn't get my times as the officials were to busy tabulating the ranks. I believe i did faster times but I will have to wait to find out.

The fastest truck of the weekend did a 57 second run and has a 600 hp ford small block running in an early bronco chassis. It's the lime green truck in the pics above.

Next races are August 16/17.

Richard
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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4.0,4.0,5.7
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Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
C+P from another thread.

----I'm out at Tailcreek Raceways, Alix, Alberta, and my truck is running good. A slight over heat problem, which I fix by adding water. The cut down f150 coils I added are working good, I'm using the full shock stock but not bottoming out.
I came in first in my class for the 200 foot drags. The slalom not so much. After walking the course somehow I decide I needed to follow my own idea of a course and got disqualified my first run. Luckily it's best run of two and I didn't screw up my second run. Today we do it all over again and then add up the points to figure out placing.
No pics as I don't have time.

----I ended up getting third place. I'll have pics up later.

----So I'll start out with pics of my new to me tow rig, a 77 f250 460/auto 2wd;



Its hard on gas @ 8.5 mpg [imp], that's about 7 mpg for you guys down south. It needs a tuneup and carb rebuild but it'll do for now.

I also picked up a new to me 22' [edit; the trailer is actually 18', it was sold to me as 22'.] flatdeck carhauler for $2500. It came with a 8000lb winch, a small hoist that can be moved side to side and front to back, a half dozen 2" ratchet straps, lots of chains and some boomers, and the tires are decent. I spent about $150 re-skinning the deck with 2x8 under a 1/2" plywood top;



Random pics;

My version of a multiranger; 1st gen bumpers and stx lift, second gen cab and front, third gen box-sides; lining up for the drags;


4 and 6 cyl stock class trucks dragging;


some v-8 stock and super-stock waiting for slalom;


more trucks waiting for slalom;


Saturday we ran the course in one direction, Sunday in the opposite.
I usually run in 4hi but my TC was stuck in 4lo. This ended up in me trying to shift into reverse a few times as most of the course I was in 4th and 5th and occasionally I'd need an extra gear. Some of you may notice I have two different size tires front to back, I'm trying to get the back end to break loose easier. The jury is still out on that idea and may be why I'm stuck in 4lo. It didn't seem to affect my drag races tho.
Anyways, I had a lot of fun and didn't roll my truck this year....which may mean I'm not trying hard enough. Next year I think I'll run without the body shell and so won't be as worried about rolling and wrecking the panels. Also hope to finish the engine side of the cage but that will depend on whether I find a place to work on it that I can afford.
Later,

Richard
 
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alwaysFlOoReD

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4.0,4.0,5.7
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
I had to decide what was more important to me, my red b-2 rust free body shell with 6" suspension lift or my race truck.... I still have my race truck. It was a really sad day having to sell the b-2, but it went to someone that has the room and capability to use it more than I can.

I drug my truck out of the snow and have it on my trailer so I can work on it. I'm going to be swapping motors soon, the one in the truck is really leaking oil and I have another runner from a 91 exploder to put in it's place. Until the weather breaks I decided to try to use a swaybar from a 97 f150 that I scrapped. I thought it was the same diameter as the elusive 1" b-2 rear bar but it's 7/8". That's still better than the 5/8" that I've been running. Here's a few pics;

Fresh off the f150;



In the 20 ton press;



And after straightening the arms;



I needed to move the eyes in ~3" each side to fit the ranger frame. I think I've got it close and will be installling it tomorrow. Right now it's snowing and I don't feel like sweeping or shoveling.

Richard
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
I installed the new swaybar today. It slid into place fairly easily. I'm no longer using the stock shock locations but it looks like stock shocks would clear.
Some more pics. First is a comparison of the stock 91 5/8" bar and the 97 f150 7/8" bar;



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The arms are the same length and the rubber bushings fit either bracket. However the end of bar is different so you have to use the links that come with the bar.

The last pic is of it installed;

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alwaysFlOoReD

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Engine Size
4.0,4.0,5.7
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Also dug out my 2.5" spacers I bought last fall. Paid 100 plus shipping. $30 for lug nuts.



sent while sitting on the throne
 

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alwaysFlOoReD

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Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
I needed some wheel nuts to attach the 2 1/2" wheel spacers. I bought 20 @ $1.37 each....ouch! When I went to install them I had a little problem when I went to torque down the wheel nuts;





Well, I guess it's better that it broke now than when I was on the track. I went and bought 10 new wheel stauds @$2.67 each.....:annoyed:





It puts the wheel out where I wanted when I first installed the splash bedsides.
 

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alwaysFlOoReD

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Engine Size
4.0,4.0,5.7
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD

alwaysFlOoReD

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Location
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Vehicle Year
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Make / Model
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Engine Size
4.0,4.0,5.7
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
I've been invited to 4WheelParts' Edmonton's Truck and Jeep Fest Saturday, May 2, 2015
10 a.m. - 4 p.m.
Sunday, May 3, 2015
11 a.m. - 4 p.m.
as part of a showcase for the racing series I'm running in. I'm one of four trucks and will be showing for the pro-lite class. This is a static display and has free admission for anyone interested in checking it out;
http://www.4wheelparts.com/info/truck-jeep-fest/about.aspx

I have also been invited to the HRC,
June 26, 27, 28 2015
a feeder for KOH, not as a participant but as part of a half-time show to showcase our racing series.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XPafxwX-n4o
This is the second year for an invitation, and I hope to make it this year. I couldn't last year due to prior commitments.

Richard
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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4.0,4.0,5.7
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Finally was able to do some work on the truck again. I need to seal all the oil leaks. I was heming and hawing on whether to swap motors with another I have that was running good, but last time it ran was 3 or 4 years ago. I did a compression test on this one and it came back good - between 150 to 165 psi. i decided to stay with a known motor and just seal the leaks. So I removed the front clip in one piece;



and then unscrewed the inner fenders from the cab. I had previously removed the rad support and inner fenders after a wreck and screwed the new one onto the cab using self-tapping #8 x 1/2" panheads. I was a lttle surprised that only 4 screws had backed of from the 36 that I used.n Those screws and the two front body mount bolts were what held the front clip on.



I got all the wiring moved out of the way and disconnected everything else needed to pull the motor except the fuel lines. I'm going to try to pull the motor with the rad attached as I don't want to drain the fluid, it would spill onto the deck of the trailer I'm working on and be sticky as a kids face after ice cream cake.



This 18' trailer has enough room to use my motor hoist so I don't have to work in the gravel. The fenders are a bit of a pain but nothing compared to working in gravel.





I'll finish up tommorow and hopefully have the motor back in and the wiring installed.

Richard
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Vehicle Year
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Make / Model
Ford, GMC,Dodge
Engine Size
4.0,4.0,5.7
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Over the last few days I have r+r'd the rear main seal, replaced the clutch, removed the exhaust manifolds and replaced with JBA headers, and replaced the valve cover gaskets. Also tried to clean the engine the best I could. It's ready to go back in and I hope I can get it to the point of running by 5 tomorrow. I have to be on the road by 6 to get to the venue to set up for the show saturday morning.

Some pics because;









This last pic shows the pain in the butt bolt. I don't know how someone would install that while the engine was in the truck;

 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Location
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Vehicle Year
'91, '80, '06
Make / Model
Ford, GMC,Dodge
Engine Size
4.0,4.0,5.7
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
I had a good time at the 4wheelparts truck and jeep show. There was lots of interest in our style of racing and should see a lot of new people out there. A big thumbs up to 4wheelparts for sponsoring our series - WORR, Western Off Road Racing. I picked up some shocks for my truck for dirt cheap and also scored some other goodies that will help pay for my racing. If anyone is interested in the following, pm me.
-Also, if you buy parts from 4wheelparts, mention that you bought because you are supporting our racing series - WORR, and me in particular - alwaysFlOoReD Racing [Richard Mckenzie]. The more people that support our sponsors, the more likely they will continue sponsoring.

I have these brand new in box [new old stock] for sale to support my racing. They are ~ 1/2 retail pricing. Shipping not included. I'm not sure what shipping to the states entails but if you're interested I'll find out.

Spool;
1 - #85-2034-4 full spool dana 60 35 spline 4.56 and up $150
R+P sets;
1 - #2-2013-410 ford 8.8" 4.10 r+p $135
1 - #2-2033-489 d44 4.89 r+p $120
4 - #2-2021-456 gm 8.5" 4.56 r+p $110
Minor install kits;
2 - 25-2032 dana 30 minor install kit $15
Master install kits;
3 - # 35-2045 dana 44 tj rubicon $85
3 - # 35-2046 ford 10.25" $140
4 - # 35-2095 gm 8.25" ifs $60
4 - # 35-2028 chrysler 9.25" rear $80
1 - # 35-2032 dana 30 $60
4 - # 35-2021 gm 8.5" $65
4 - # 35-2022 1999-2008 8.6in. Rear $60
Rear wheel bearing kits, one kit does one side;
4 - #30-9000 Chry/Ford/GM Small Bearing, 6408 Bearing, 8835S Seal $10
4 - #30-9002 '88-'03 gm 8.5" rear $20
5 - #30-9008 Dana 35, Ford 7.5in., GM 7.5in. [ rear ] $10

Smittybuilt side bars;
1 - # cn1920-s4s
Fits 2001-2012 Chevy Silverado / GMC Sierra, 1500, 1500HD, 2500, 2500HD, 3500 & 3500HD, Crew Cab
Side Bar
3 inch diameter
No Drill Installation
Stainless Steel
$125

1 - @fn1700-s4b
Fits 1999-2015 Ford Superduty F250 & F350, Crew Cab
Fits 1999-2006 Ford Excursion
Side Bar
3 inch diameter
No Drill Installation
Black Powder Coat
$95
 
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alwaysFlOoReD

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'91, '80, '06
Make / Model
Ford, GMC,Dodge
Engine Size
4.0,4.0,5.7
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
So today I was trying to figure out why my key switch wouldn't start the truck. I check my wiring at the starter and it seemed to be connected correctly. At the solinoid/relay on the fender, also seemed correct. Using a screwdriver to jump from big terminal to big terminal worked and started the truck. Jumping from the B+ to the small terminal also worked...WTF!!! I got frustrated and decided to do something else, lower my seat.

My helmet was touching the roof and that is a big no-no as if I rolled I could crush my spine. I pulled the seat and removed the bar that I installed for the center mount for my 5-point harness. I decided that the belt could be wrapped onto a cross bar in front of the seat and fed thru the hole in the seat. Previously it was attached to a bar directly below the seat. I was able to get the seat 2.5" lower and that will suffice. I now have about 4.5" of clearance between my unhelmeted head and the roof. Another job I can tick off the list.

I cleaned up and was relaxing inside when something clicked...I had noticed that there was two similar gray connectors, one was to the harness going to the fender solinoid/relay. Somehow I had it on the wrong gray connector that was leading to the rear of the truck....I always thought that ford never used a connector that would cross over like that but have now proved myself wrong....ooops. Oh well, at least I learned something.
 

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