Is there a best combination

I've always wanted a 5.0 Ranger and I'm finally doing it. I picked up a 1996 Explorer 5.0 with engine harness which I intended to build as a 90's Mustang style EFI. I have located a 1999 Ranger short bed step side. After reading several posts about this swap, I began to wonder if there is a best combination that reduces computer/wiring problems. I have all of the electronics for the Explorer 5.0 but was hesitant to go that way since the packs and such are fairly ugly.

Welcome to TRS

Things that need to be considered in swapping engines to different sizes

Ford EECs(computers) are transmission specific
An EEC for automatic won't like not being connected to an automatic, CEL and idle issues
An EEC for a manual can't control an automatic

1994 and earlier used EEC-IV(OBD1) 60 pin computers, and used separate spark system module
1995 and up used EEC-V(OBD2) 104 pin computers, with spark system module in the EEC

1994 and earlier EEC-IVs can be either Speed Density systems or Mass Air Flow(MAF)
Speed Density used MAP sensor as primary air flow sensor, which is fine but didn't allow for changes in the engine
MAF systems are more flexible and better overall, most EEC-IVs were MAF by 1990 but not all

Mustang A9L EEC-IVs are a good choice for manual trans, A9P for automatic, I believe all are MAF but just guessing

1994 and earlier used speedometer cable
1995 and up used electronic speedometer

1997 and earlier used 35psi return fuel system, 2 fuel lines
1998 and up use 65psi returnless fuel system, 1 fuel line
This will be an issue with the 1999 Ranger


1998 and up Explorers had PATS(passive anti-theft system), EEC won't turn on fuel system unless PATS test is passed, correct PATS key in ignition
1999 and up Rangers had PATS, except 4cyl

PATS goes with the EEC, so replacing 1999 Ranger computer with 1996 Explorer, or 1990 Mustang, computer would eliminate PATS in the 1999 Ranger

1997 and up manual transmission(M5OD-R2) from an F-150 with 4.2l V6 will bolt to 5.0l and it's shifter location is same as Rangers M5OD-R1.
Earlier manuals from 5.0ls had shifter farther forward, and can work, new hole cut in floor and shifter arm bent to clear dash.

Automatic would need to match EECs control parameters.


The EEC-IVs would be the easiest to use wiring wise, but still transmission specific.
With EDIS-8 module for spark, or TFI distributor and module depending on EEC
EDIS module is much better to use

The 1999 Ranger uses a speed sensor on the rear axle(VSS), if Ranger has 4Wheel ABS then the ABS module gets the VSS signal converts signal for tire size and sends it out to speedo, EEC, and Cruise.
If Rear ABS then VSS signal goes to GEM module, and is converted for tire size and sent out.
GEM(generic electronic module) runs the cab electrics, wipers, windows, lights, ect..

Hands down, a '99/00 Expo in a 99/00 Ranger is the easiest. Electrics and fuel are essentially plug and play.

Gotta stretch a few wires and deal with PATS programming but that's about it. Even the a/c system wiring works. (a/c is usually the trickiest bit in the wiring).

Personally, I don't think a cleaned up pair of coil packs looks any worse than a distributor with its rats nest of plug wires.

Thanks for the great info. A lot was decided today, I found a 1997 short bed step side that the owner has had for 11 years, $700.00. Good looking little truck, sometimes even a blind squirrel finds an acorn. Got a lot of studing ahead of me.

I picked up an 1997 R2 trans pressure plate clutch and flywheel. It appears that the 4.2 is zero balance where the 5.0 is 50, do I need an after market flywheel?

yes, you would use 5.0l Flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc and slave for M5OD-R2
Also 5.0l Starter motor for manual trans

4.2l could use the same 10" pressure plate and correct slave

M5OD-R2 was the same from 1998 to 2008, only real change was shifter location in '97
Most had 10" clutch disc and plate, you can use 11" which most say last much longer

This combo is the 11 7/16 clutch. I also discovered that the bell housing is metric with 10 mm mounting holes. I assume they will have to be reamed to accept the 7/16 5.0 bolts.

Yes, oops forgot that part, you do need to enlarge the bell housing bolt holes

The swap has come to a halt. When I got the engine out I found frame damage, so until I get it to a frame shop. I don't know if I have a truck. At least when the engine comes back I can build it.