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Anyone know how to get the correct part number?


Rangstang

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I've got a 2000 Ranger that I swapped in a 5.0L V8 into.

I need to determine the right part number of temperature sending unit that feeds the gauge. I know I can use the OEM 5.0 unit, but I've already tossed it and need a new one. Problem is that every application lists two temperature sending units and I don't see any charts differentiating between the one for the gauge and the one for the PCM. Both look almost identical with only a slight keying difference, but I don't have one to match to, so I'm begging anyone with a 2.3L, 3.0L, 4.0L, or even converted 5.0L for help.

Thanks guys!
 


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One is a sending unit and the other is a sensor (ECT). The sender will probably only have one wire. The ECT sensor, I believe, should have at least 2 wires.

Knowing what year/model the 5.0L came from should also help in ordering the right parts.

Any time you start swapping parts in from other types of vehicles, always keep track of what those parts came from. For example, I installed a 8.8" rear axle from a 2002 Ranger FX4 (I think that's it. But I have it written down) into my '93 Ranger Splash. If I want to order brake parts or axle seals or something like that. I need that vehicle info because thats how the parts places find parts these days. If you go to Advance or Napa and say " I need a temperature sender, ford part number XXXXXXX", they will stop listening until you say "I need a temperature sender for a 2000 ford explorer, 5.0L with A/C, Eddie Bauer Edition, blah-blah-blah".

Life is fun. I hope I helped at least a little bit.
 

RonD

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Yes, gauge temp unit is the SENDER, but may have 2 wires in 2000
One is just a Ground wire, which used to be done by the threads on the Sender
The Red/white stripe wire is for the Sender to the gauge
Black/white would be the Ground wire, if there is a second wire

You don't mention year of the 5.0l and I assume you are using that wiring harness so it can either have 1 wire sender or 2 wire sender, just look at the connector.

Then get the ECT(engine coolant temp) SENDER for that year 5.0l
Parts guy will bring you the ECT "sensor" usually, tell him you need the SENDER and he will get that, lol.

You have to keep saying "sender" over and over again, they will eventually get it and look up the right part.

If you want to test wiring and gauge, find the Red/white stripe wire
use a jumper wire from that wire to Ground, if 2 wire connector just loop the jumper from one wire to the other, if 1 wire then ground to engine or battery negative.
Turn on the key
Temp gauge should go all the way up to above HOT
Wire and gauge are good
If gauge doesn't move, leave key on and remove the jumper wire, see if it goes to HOT now

You can try this part number for 2000 Explorer V8: F77F 10884-AA
It is listed as SENDER by most and is 2 wire

ECT sensor is listed as part number 12A648(DY-681)
 
Last edited:

Rangstang

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You can try this part number for 2000 Explorer V8: F77F 10884-AA
It is listed as SENDER by most and is 2 wire
Thanks for the help and it is a single wire on the harness with a two position capable connector. The sending unit has two terminals. I ordered a TS376 from Rock Auto a while back, but found that the body of the unit is not grounded and that the only way to get continuity was to go terminal to terminal, so I ran a wire to ground from one side. I actually modified it due to a clearance issue as I relocated it to the water outlet housing. Problem I had is the gauge now goes hot when the engine temp hits around 80° F so I don't know if I damaged the unit by soldering on the terminals or if it was defective, or if I ordered the wrong part. Anyway, thanks for the help.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2000,explorer,5.0l+v8,1362462,cooling+system,temperature+sender+/+sensor,4748
 

Rangstang

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One is a sending unit and the other is a sensor (ECT). The sender will probably only have one wire. The ECT sensor, I believe, should have at least 2 wires.

Knowing what year/model the 5.0L came from should also help in ordering the right parts.
Thanks for your response. As I mentioned in my reply to Ron, it is a single wire from the harness and a two terminal connector.

I am actually very good about remembering and documenting what year my engine, harness, trans, etc. came from, it's just that I just decided to eliminate the heater tube assembly that was rusty and had to relocate the sending unit. Problem is that it caused interference with the AC line running over the water outlet. My initial thought was to use an old Mustang sending unit, but the resistance range is different. I did a resistor mod to my cluster which resolved most of the issue, but the temp ran 3/4 instead of mid range when at full temp, so I decided to go back to the original sending unit. Problem then was that I had long ago tossed the unit for comparison and the connector was cut off too. Thus, I created my own problem.

Thanks again for the help.

If you guys could chime in about the TS376 sending unit being correct, it would be much obliged.
 

Rangstang

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This is why there is confusion in my opinion (note inconsistencies marked with red arrows in "Info" section from Rock Auto below).

 

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If you look up the SENSORS as well, you will see they have a different tip
F2AF-12A648-AA

You want to match your dash gauge OHMS so the year of the dash would decide the year of the sender to use.
The actual sender should be the same for any Ford Ranger/explorer engine of that year, same threads and connector
 

Rangstang

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My credo
If it ain't broke, I can't fix it.
If you look up the SENSORS as well, you will see they have a different tip
Yes, this is true with most of the images.

The actual sender should be the same for any Ford Ranger/explorer engine of that year, same threads and connector
Correct, but the last few 5.0 Rangers I've done I've stuck with the OEM sending unit as they have all been 98-2001 Expo motors into 99-2000 Rangers, so the temp gauges are directly compatible.

I just wanted to be sure that I had purchased the correct sending unit as it is responding incorrectly, so it probably got overheated when I soldered on the wires.
 

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