Drag Truck - The Danger Ranger

ksack · Mar 19, 2017

Got all the HVAC out along with the steel structure that supports the dash and everything. I can now easily access all the interior harnesses and have begun my testing for what can be unplugged and not piss off the computer. So far I've learned that undoing the brake reservoir sensor defaults the parking brake light to on, unplugging the headlight switch defaults the lights to on, and unplugging either the TCS button or the abs wheel sensors trip AdvanceTrac service. Also tried unpinning the PATS from the connector on the junction box....disables the ignition.

Interior as I left it today.

The hvac unit. It was annoying because it has both the AC and heater cores built in and the lines run through the firewall (vice being in the engine bay and just running the conditioned air through the firewall. I have upside down on a bucket to let the residual coolant drain out.

ksack · Mar 26, 2017

Today I did some more testing. Found out unplugging the door sensor puts it into safe mode...makes sense. Pulled the ECU because everyone that does swaps sends it off to get PATS disabled. HOWEVER....I had a thought. I'm using the ignition and key from the donor vehicle so I shouldn't have to disable PATS right? I shot an email off to Eric Brooks to confirm but want to hear what you guys think too. If not, I'll order my tuner and get that all squared away before swapping everything over. Hoping to get the heavy lifting in before it gets too hot.

ksack · Mar 29, 2017

Eric Brooks got back to me and said I should be good to go with swapping everything over and not needing to send in the PCM for PATS. I'll let you know if that changes. I have an Ngauge on order so hopefully it'll be here sometime next week.

Andy D · Apr 22, 2017

Wow just wow. please post the continuing saga

ksack · Apr 24, 2017

Good news! Got my revised tune back today with TCS and ABS disabled and it works! The dash looks like a Christmas tree and still posts all the error messages, but I was able to rev over 6k with the door, brake reservoir, and wheel speed sensors unplugged. Still says door ajar, parking brake on, shift to park, service brakes, and service advancetrac but I can just undo all the lights. I'm going to continue unplugged things to make sure it doesn't go into safe mode on me and then the swapping begins!

RayInStl · Apr 26, 2017

Now THIS is an engine swap thread I want to watch!

ksack · May 14, 2017

No progress on the truck lately. Been out of town and busy with work. I did however pick up this bad boy yesterday. 03 2500 with the 5.9 Cummins and a 6 speed. Wanted something bigger with 4 doors so I can actually take people and crap places unlike my single cab Ranger. And once this project is done, I'll need something to tow it to the track with!

deathbypsi · May 24, 2017

Cool project!

ksack · May 30, 2017

Turned out the new truck had a leaky water pump and power steering pump. Don't know how because I specifically crawled under the damn thing looking for exactly that. Anyway, both are fixed now but that took away time from the swap. I spent about an hour starting to unplug the harnesses from the engine bay and labeling everything. I'll need another hour or two of unplugging and labeling and a couple hours disconnecting cooling system and everything on the trans and should be good to pull.

ksack · Jun 7, 2017

Had a morning off from work and got some good progress. All the wiring from the motor is disconnected, radiator and front support is out (all came out as one unit which is nice). Drained the trans and removed the oil cooler. I plan on deleting it but still need to figure out how. I'm assuming there's a pump in the trans to move that fluid up through the cooler so I can't just plug the holes. This trans is also a pain in the ass to drain as you have to take the whole bottom pan off. Anyway, I'll be tapping the pan and adding a drain for the future. Right now I need to disconnect the shift linkage, driveshaft, cross member, exhaust, fuel line and motor mounts and it should be good to pull. Hoping to have it pulled this weekend unless something comes up.

ksack · Jun 11, 2017

Whoop got the motor and trans pulled today! Biggest pain was doing it myself. Took an hour to get it out with constantly having to move between the hoist and the jack under the trans. Second biggest pain was the motor mounts. Pax side was a breeze. 2 bolts from underneath with the impact and done in seconds. Driver's side is a different story...3 bolts from the top. It has one of those stupid plates underneath with the nuts welded on. Can only access 1 of the 3 bolts without taking the exhaust off. I decided to pull the 3 bolts that connect the mount to the block and lift it enough to get access to the bolts on top. Sorry I don't have any pictures of that.

Tried test fitting the motor and the pic shows as far in as I could get it. The old steering box gets in the way....along with the headers being wider than the frame rail. Can't wait to do some fab work to fix that problem! Made a list on some cardboard to keep track of everything I need to do, Roadkill style. I'm sure there's plenty more little things I forgot. My buddy also gave me crap for working in flip flops and accused me of being Freiburger. I prefer just hosing off my feet than having my shoes soaked in coolant and oil. And I get a wicked flip flop tan too! Up next is going to be modifying the frame and crossmembers to get this stuff to fit!

RayInStl · Jun 14, 2017

I think we all know how roadkill would handle the header clearance. Got a sledge? Lol

ksack · Jun 16, 2017

RayInStl said:
I think we all know how roadkill would handle the header clearance. Got a sledge? Lol

I wish it were that easy. No way I could pound in these stock cast headers

RayInStl · Jun 16, 2017

Turn em up-side down? :icon_hornsup:

ksack · Jun 16, 2017

RayInStl said:
Turn em up-side down?

Interesting thought. I will have to explore that possibility

Drag Truck - The Danger Ranger

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