well i replaced the sensor and got the maf cleaner and it didnt help at all im showing o2 codes when they were read forgot excacty which ones but is it possible that this is happening cause of my dual exhaust. its straight dual 2.5 from the headers back could this mess up my o2 sensor readings or any other suggestions on things to try would be great
Did your troubles occur immediately after making the exhaust change? If so than its likely the problem. But if the shop that did the exhaust knew what they were doing and were reputable, I doubt it.
You should have duel converters, one in each side. There would then need to be O2 sensors before and after each converter. If done this way it is not likely the culprit.
Another item that has a lot to do with idle is the IAC, or Idle Air Control Motor. It sits on top of the intake right above the throttle plate. These get dirty and gunked up, I suspect from EGR gasses. In any event you can remove this, clean it and lubricate it, then re-install. It does not take long and only has two 5/16 bolts and one connector. After doing this, when your engine is idling properly, pull the connector. It should either drop to a real low idle, or die. If it does so then it is properly functioning.
Another idle related sensor is the IAT, or Inlet Air Temperature Sensor. Mine was bad, and sending a signal "IAT high input". It is easy to replace and costed $13.99 at Auto Zone.
Is your DPFE that controls the EGR valve the old metal unit. This sits on the front of the manifold, abd has two vacuum hoses and one connector. The metal one corrodes internally and cause malfunctions of the EGR valve that may or may not light the Check Engine Light. Again AutoZone has a plastic replacement for $52.99. This fixed an EGR related latent (no light but still throwing a code) code my truck was showing, and fixed a slight rough idle.
The last is the TPS or Throttle Position Sensor, on the side of the manifold opposte the throttle linkage. It is imperative this unit send a signal to the ECU that the throttle is closed when idling or starting. If it does not, the ECU will read that you have your foot on the gas and inject too much fuel.
I replaced all of these sensors last month (TPS, IAC, IAT, ECT and DPFE) trying to fix a starting problem. Eventually what ended up fixing the problem completely was a tank full of strong fuel injector cleaner. Since adding that to a full tank, all problems have gone away, and it starts first turn of the key every time.