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1992 Geo Tracker Electrical Issuses


Twister

Active Member
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Mar 4, 2010
Messages
1,921
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Location
Omaha, Ne
Vehicle Year
1985 1987
Make / Model
Duh
Engine Size
5.0L, 2.9L
Transmission
Manual
I have a 1992 Geo Tracker, 4x4, 5 speed with the 8V 1.6L engine. Had a problem where the tracker would not start, got it jumped and after i got home. it was only reading about 10v at the battery while it was running. Took the battery and alternator to two different autozones to get them tested and they both tested fine. Reinstalled them and cleaned the battery terminals and two rounds. It was now running at just above 12v. The alternator was chirping and the main shaft had a bit of a wobble so I replaced it. Installed the new alternator, and upgraded the wire from the alternator to the big fuse on the passenger side with a 4 guage wire. Got it all put back together, and it was reading 14.5v, with the light on it dropped to about 13.5 and with the heater blower motor on it dipped under 13v.

So i took it for drive, and it seemed to do ok, on the way home, i had the lights on and went to use the wiper fluid, while pulling back the wiper stalk, the truck would bog down, the wipers would go really slow and the tach would drop to zero and back up. Got home, turned it off and went to restart it and i get nothing, the entire car has zero power to anything. The previous owner rigged the blower motor and a/c to work off a toggle. If you flip the toggle the blower motor turns on to the highest setting. The only way to get any power is to flick that on, but when you turn the key you still get nothing except a click from a relay under the dash.

If anyone has any suggestion, they would be very much so appreciated. I dont know what to test next. The battery has 12.8v sitting.
 


scotts90ranger

Well-Known Member
RBV's on Boost
Joined
Feb 28, 2001
Messages
7,935
Reaction score
4,231
Points
113
Location
Dayton Oregon
Vehicle Year
1990, 1997
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.3 Turbo
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6
Tire Size
35"
Follow the battery and ground cables from the battery, I have a '94 with the 12V and haven't had too much electrical trouble with it but it's been hacked some here and there as parts are hard to find... But I have ran into a similar problem before on another vehicle where there was a bad connection at or near the battery, battery connections were good clean and tight but there was a connection problem either in the crimp to the cable end, the other end of the wire where it meets the starter or alternator or whatever (my problems were on a Ford, so it turned out to be at the ring terminal on the on fender solenoid switch for the starter). Corrosion has a way of working it's way up into the wire insulation or into the crimp joints and making the connection that looks good be really bad. Dig further up into the connection, follow the battery wires and check voltage after the battery not just at the top posts.

It really sounds like a bad connection on one of the main battery cables to me.
 

Twister

Active Member
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Mar 4, 2010
Messages
1,921
Reaction score
17
Points
38
Location
Omaha, Ne
Vehicle Year
1985 1987
Make / Model
Duh
Engine Size
5.0L, 2.9L
Transmission
Manual
Follow the battery and ground cables from the battery, I have a '94 with the 12V and haven't had too much electrical trouble with it but it's been hacked some here and there as parts are hard to find... But I have ran into a similar problem before on another vehicle where there was a bad connection at or near the battery, battery connections were good clean and tight but there was a connection problem either in the crimp to the cable end, the other end of the wire where it meets the starter or alternator or whatever (my problems were on a Ford, so it turned out to be at the ring terminal on the on fender solenoid switch for the starter). Corrosion has a way of working it's way up into the wire insulation or into the crimp joints and making the connection that looks good be really bad. Dig further up into the connection, follow the battery wires and check voltage after the battery not just at the top posts.

It really sounds like a bad connection on one of the main battery cables to me.
Thank you guys for the quick reply. I removed all the negative and positive cables that run from the battery terminal. I cut the raw ends down to fresh wire, all of them had a decent amount of corrosion that ran down about an inch. I also replaced the ground that runs form the negative to right next to the battery. This allowed the truck to start right up. At idle with nothing on the battery is charging at 14.5v, but as soon as you turn the lights on, it dips down to 12.2v. Any suggestions on why it is doing that?

Thanks
 

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