One more 2wd 98 coil spring 5.0 swap.

Jbrown1238 · Aug 8, 2014

veefer800canuck said:
wicked.

now go smoke off those white letters on the tread!

That day will come at some point and I will be sure to catch a video for you guys! I have already set two spare tires aside and if they clear the rear brakes we should have some good images in the future.

RangerSVT · Aug 8, 2014

Looks good, I probably would have went with a slightly wider 275...

SVT

Sharkin904 · Aug 8, 2014

So what amount did you have to cut for a 1"/2" drop from the stock springs? I've got a half coil cut from my DJM 2" springs and after the swap, its waay too low. Constant contact with the fender/liner. Tires look good on there btw! Can't wait to see the bed on, our trucks are twins lol

Jbrown1238 · Aug 8, 2014

Sharkin904 said:
So what amount did you have to cut for a 1"/2" drop from the stock springs? I've got a half coil cut from my DJM 2" springs and after the swap, its waay too low. Constant contact with the fender/liner. Tires look good on there btw! Can't wait to see the bed on, our trucks are twins lol

I have a couple sets of front springs cut at several different points. I think the 2 inch drop was cut in the "7:00" position at the top of the spring. If you spin the spring so the end of the top coil is in the "12:00" position I cut it at "7:00". But a few other things can play a part. If new suspension pieces are used or if old pieces are removed and reinstalled the height can vary depending on how the suspension was torqued. If the components are torqued with the vehicle suspended on jacks stands and the suspension "unloaded" the vehicle may sit a little tall. If the suspension is torqued while the truck sits under its own weight it will sink somewhat. Camber will impact the height as well.

I think the 1 inch springs I have were cut in the "4:00" position. I would either get a new set of OE springs from eBay or just add one or two rubber spring spacers to each coil. One is good for about a half inch of adjustment and two for a full inch. BTW, my favorite combo for these trucks is a DJM flip kit and shackles for the back ( save the supplied red bump stops for the front ) and a two inch drop on the front with cut OE coils and the red bump stops. This combo is kind of a compromise, it may not be as deep a drop as some would like but still offers a tolerable ride with plenty of travel.

Lil-Pony · Aug 10, 2014

win said:
Here's the pair on my '02:

Right side: Had a lot of trimming to do getting the TM's to clear.

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Left side:

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Thanks for the pics i know i made the passenger side correct so all my issues derive from the driver side since my mechanic didnt remove the oem spacer between the engine mount and frame. Any one have a pic of this done properly.

Jbrown1238 · Aug 10, 2014

Lil-Pony said:
Thanks for the pics i know i made the passenger side correct so all my issues derive from the driver side since my mechanic didnt remove the oem spacer between the engine mount and frame. Any one have a pic of this done properly.

I don't have a photo but it is very straight forward. Just remove the spacer (attached by a single nut) and install the mount back on the frame. You made need to drill one hole on the frame for the guide pin. That should correct the issue and keep you moving forward.

win · Aug 10, 2014

Yep, that spacer has to go. The bite is that to remove the spacer, you've got to pull the spring out of the suspension to get to the bolt.

If the engine is already in the way, its not going to be fun pulling the mount and drilling for the alignment pin.

Jbrown1238 · Aug 10, 2014

win said:
Yep, that spacer has to go. The bite is that to remove the spacer, you've got to pull the spring out of the suspension to get to the bolt.

If the engine is already in the way, its not going to be fun pulling the mount and drilling for the alignment pin.

So true. I fit mine before the engine and front suspension was installed. I guess the guide pin could be shaved off to make the process a little easier. I don't think it is really required. I think it is only there to make R&Ring the nut easier.

Lil-Pony · Aug 10, 2014

win said:
Yep, that spacer has to go. The bite is that to remove the spacer, you've got to pull the spring out of the suspension to get to the bolt.

If the engine is already in the way, its not going to be fun pulling the mount and drilling for the alignment pin.

Ughh, thanks for the info again....

win · Aug 10, 2014

Under the circumstances, I think I'd simply trim off the alignment pin and save a ton of hassle.

Pretty sure the only real purpose of that pin is to aide in initial assembly at the factory, it sure won't make any structural difference.

Lil-Pony · Aug 10, 2014

win said:
Under the circumstances, I think I'd simply trim off the alignment pin and save a ton of hassle.

Pretty sure the only real purpose of that pin is to aide in initial assembly at the factory, it sure won't make any structural difference.

Thats what i planned on doing.... Anyway thanks for all the info and solving my small issue next is all the fun of matting a 98 harness to a 2000 ecm. Threadjack over for now

Jbrown1238 · Aug 19, 2014

I have been working seven days a week and spending time on household duties at night since the last update. I have not had much time lately but I am looking forward to getting back into the truck project full force very soon. Today I spent a few minutes cutting and grinding the clutch slave cylinder push rod assembly out of a few misc. items I picked up at Lowes.

The parts list consisted of a couple carriage bolts, one in 3/8” and one in 1/2” a few regular nuts, one cap nut, and a couple washers.

I started by rounding off the sharp edges on the cap nut. This allowed for a nice fit in the cup portion of the clutch slave cylinder piston.

Then I cut the head off the1/2” carriage bolt and drilled a 3/8” hole in the center so the push rod would fit through the piece. The head of the 1/2” carriage bolt fits nice into the divot on the clutch fork.

It took a little fine tuning to get the push rod to line up straight and even through the entire throw or travel of the slave cylinder. I had to "build in" some adjustment to the bracket and the slave cylinder mounting holes to get it right. Now no forward movement will be lost straying off in another direction.

The assembly is fully adjustable with locking nuts and is also self centering on both ends.

DangerRangerCj · Sep 12, 2014

What are you doing for an exhaust system?

Jbrown1238 · Sep 12, 2014

DangerRangerCj said:
What are you doing for an exhaust system?

From the Torque Monster headers back it will be 2 1/2 or 2 3/4, not sure yet, no cats, removable mid pipe with cross over to passenger side, x pipe going into two Flow Master 44's and then out the back center spaced about 2 feet apart. All custom mandrel bends (cut and welded). A friend introduced me to a guy here in town that does some custom work on the side out of his home. Here are a few photos of his work, (not my vehicle).

abelsep · Sep 13, 2014

very nice built....if you haven't done your drive shaft, I like to share my build.
I use one from 2000 2wd v8 explorer just change yoke with the one from my 99 ranger and fit perfect.

One more 2wd 98 coil spring 5.0 swap.

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