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1995 4.0 4x4 starting problem- won't crank


Redline4x4

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1995 ford ranger only starts when I jump the selanoid on the firewall. Iv searched and couldn't find a similar situation.

Iv replaced the selanoid on the fire wall, 2 wires to the starter that looked like they had seen better days, cleaned all the connections including battery, replaced the park range position sensor on the side of the transmission, replaced the ignition switch. I'm at a stump here.

Today I went out there and put the old selanoid on thinking maybe the new one could be bad and I could have fixed the issue with one of the other little fixes and it started first crank but wouldn't after that.

Starts perfect when I jump the fender wall selanoid but when I turn the key I get nothing at all, no crank, no click, nothing. After a few tries the door locks unlock and lock twice and still nothing. Please help
 


RonD

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Welcome to TRS :)

OK first the wiring for 1995 Ranger starter motor
Starter relay is what is on the fender, starter solenoid is on the starter motor

Battery positive------(larger cable)-------------------------------------------Starter motor(large post)

Battery positive-----(smaller wire)-----Starter relay on fender(big post)

Other big post on starter relay--------(often black or yellow wire)-----------Starter motor(smaller post)

Starter Relay(smaller post, has "S" label)--------red/blue wire------------Transmission switch-------ignition switch


I assume when you turn on the key all the dash lights come on, radio works, ect..............if not then fuse in engine fuse box is blown so no power to ignition switch and no start of course.

Put test light or volt meter on the red/blue wire, turn key to start, if you don't see 12volts on this wire then that wire is disconnect or broken somewhere.
It comes from ignition switch(pink) then runs thru a clutch switch bypass(red/white now), then to NSS(switch on trans shifter) then to the starter relay


The starter motor in '95 Ranger always has battery hooked up to it directly, so not the same as older models that used the starter relay on the fender to pass battery voltage to starter motor.

The starter relay on the fender now just activates to send 12v to the starter motors solenoid, so all smaller wires on the starter relay.

The red/blue wire is what has 12v when key is turned to start, that activates the starter relay, it closes, and sends 12volts from battery red wire to starter solenoid, on "black" wire.
Starter solenoid closes which connects batteries larger red cable to starter motor brushes, solenoid also pushes out the starter motor gear at the same time

On later models the starter relay is not used, the red/blue wire connects directly to starter solenoid


EDIT:

On a 1995 you should not have a starter relay on the fender???

The red/blue wire should just run to the Starter motor
 
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Redline4x4

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Thanks for the quick reply

I believe I Ment the starter relay that's on the fender correct? I jump the two large posts with a screwdriver and it starts right up no problem.
:D
All the lights on the dash light up, I don't have a radio at the moment :bawling:

Iv checked all the fuses in the truck, everything is good

So should I have the key in the engine on position or have someone hold it in the crank position while I test for 12v to the red/blue small wire to the starter relay? How exactly should I do that with a voltmeter? I have one in the shop but I'm not familiar with it


Also, I believe it's sometype of 94.5 built in 95? Title and vin say 1995 but it has 94 brakes so... Lol

Thanks for the help :D
 

Redline4x4

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Put test light or volt meter on the red/blue wire, turn key to start, if you don't see 12volts on this wire then that wire is disconnect or broken somewhere.
It comes from ignition switch(pink) then runs thru a clutch switch bypass(red/white now), then to NSS(switch on trans shifter) then to the starter relay

Where should I put the Black wire of the voltmeter?
 

RonD

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Bare metal Ground on engine or Battery Negative
 

Redline4x4

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Bare metal Ground on engine or Battery Negative

Thanks il check it in the morning

Also, does key need to be in engine on position or in crank position when I test? Thanks again
 

RonD

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Turned all the way to Crank/START thats the only time the red/blue wire will have 12volts, or the pink wire on ignition switch
 

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