Axle pivot sleeves... and some questions about reinforcement

[4x4junkie]

Yeah, the pivot bushing material is not limiting of flex, it's the width of the bracket and the beam twisting and binding up within it.

Putting extended radius arms on it will reduce that twisting = more flex.

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Originally Posted by AllanD

the "Energy" suspension bushings are multipiece because the middle piece is made of stiffer urethane.

AD

Yea, I noticed that, the center piece seemed really hard and the ends seemed maybe just a hair softer than the Duff ones are overall.

Originally Posted by 4x4junkie

Yeah, the pivot bushing material is not limiting of flex, it's the width of the bracket and the beam twisting and binding up within it.

Putting extended radius arms on it will reduce that twisting = more flex.

I'm doing new extended arms, they'll go back to my transmission crossmember and use Ballistic joints.



So I guess the general opinion is that it really doesn't matter which bushing I use?

[4x4junkie]

Naw, use whatever you think fits best (I'd probably use the Energy ones for their stiffer center having better control).

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Ok, so the Energy suspension bushings are in place and I've been fitting up the axles and figuring out the extended arms (any advice on how to get the correct caster angle?)...

Looks like my camber is going to be way out of whack. My pinch bolts are froze up, gonna try some heat next. Anyone happen to know what size bolts they are? I'd like to get a couple spares, asked at the local Ford dealer and they told me the pinch bolts are NLA - no longer available.

[4x4junkie]

Originally Posted by lil_Blue_Ford

(any advice on how to get the correct caster angle?)...

Set them up so the box section of the beam where the RA attaches is square with the ground at ride height. This will set you up for about 5° default caster angle, which you can then fine-tune it from there using the camber/caster bushings.
Info about correct ride height is toward the bottom of this page:
http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga...ering_tech.htm

New pinch bolts are usually included with new ball joints. If you're replacing those, you should have new ones. Unfortunately I can't recall exactly what size they are.

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Thanks again 4x4Junkie!

I'm not replacing the ball joints as the ones in there are still good from the feel of things (they look pretty good too and all have grease fittings). Drivers side pinch bolt came out with the liberal application of heat, the passenger side one started to come out but snapped off. I hate dealing with snapped off fasteners.

I also need to figure out just where to locate the axle (as far as front to back) I wanted to push it as far forward as I could get away with (in hopes that I wouldn't have to change my front driveshaft then), but I'm not ready to assemble the axle (still have to find a replacement differential side slip joint since one of the ears snapped trying to get the old U-joint out) and I still have to grind them out for full circle clips. Is it possible to figure out where the axle needs to be located by using measurements from someone else's rig?

[88_Eddie]

i replaced all my ball joints because i was still working at the zone, the duralasts will come with a new pinch bolt and snap ring. we didnt sell just the pinch bolt, but i think rock auto has a pinch bolt and snap ring only kit. if not them, lmc truck will sell just the bolt.

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I was figuring if I had the bolt size, I could try getting one through McMaster-Carr, they have a listing for 12pt high-strength bolts in US and Metric - the US ones (and I know these are metrics but not what size) are above a grade 8 hardness and the metric ones are rated above a 10.9 for hardness.

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Finally got around to working on it, I think I have most of the answers now, just trying to figure out how I can set the caster without the truck sitting perfectly level since I don't have a level spot to put it on.

*edit*

I was driving along and it suddenly dawned on me how to do it without the truck sitting level. Just put a straightedge from the center of the rear axle to the center of the front axle (spindle), those points will be parallel with the road surface because of the same tire and rim size on the front and rear.