A couple of thoughts for you.
First, confirm that there's only the one ground wire coming out of the driver door, by looking at the individual wires in the door before they go into the harness wrapping going out of the door and forward. While it's possible that the two black wires are connected into one before the grounding point, the Ford EVTM shows two wires all the way to the grounding point. A non-connected ground wire will make for some screwy problems.
The locks operating as though underpowered, in likely order could be parts that need servicing, or a poor ground. Check the moving lock linkages for binding, and clean and regrease the linkage parts.
Driver's window, carefully double-check your wiring connections, and check the switch; preferable an electrical test with a meter. A power window won't move, unless it's seeing the power and ground. Either wires are crossed, or the switch is pooched, putting power out when it's not supposed to. It's possible to take the switch apart, or just get a known good one. Common switch problems are corrosion from moisture, burnt contacts, or broken internal parts. First figure out why the window moved on its own, then see if the fuse-blowing symptom is still present. There's a good chance the two symptoms are related.
Otherwise, realize that you're working with parts that are over 15 years old, and have likely never been serviced. Clean the gunk off of everything that moves, and put new grease on everything that slides or touches another moving part. Check all mounting points for hardware tightness, and loosen, align, and retighten wherever it's needed.
Servicing is not hard; just spend the time, figure out how everything works, and works together, and do what's needed accordingly to make it right.
Finally, bear with me- I'm home this weekend, but I'm out of state training for my job, and won't have computer access for another two weeks. You've made great progress on your project so far; just hang with it, and you'll do fine. Good luck!
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