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Replacing Front Brake Lines - Some Questions


greek2me

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Hey there! I'm planning to replace my front brake lines in the next couple days and have a couple questions.

First, when removing the old line, do I need to drain all of the fluid from the system? Or should I take it out quickly and plug the master cylinder with something?

Once the new front brake lines are installed, will I only need to bleed those two front wheels?

Is there anything you wish that you knew when you did this repair? How long did it take?

Thanks in advance - I appreciate your responses!
 


alwaysFlOoReD

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I would recommend a complete flush of both front and back lines. Brake fluid really likes h2o and after time can pick up enough to start rusting brake lines. It's supposed to be a closed system but who knows what the previous owner did. Go ahead and replace lines, don't try to save any fluid. Then bleed starting from the furthest away, usually passenger side rear, then drivers rear, pass. front and finally drivers front. I'm not sure if the procedure changes if you have ABS or RABS, etc. Hopefully another member can help with that.
 

greek2me

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So I should essentially just disconnect the brake lines and drain all of the fluid from the master cylinder before putting the new lines in?
 

Pauls 4x4

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Don't empty the master or you'll have to "bench bleed" it (you can cheat on this but it's not always gonna work). <<< That, and ABS modules are why many home jobs end up with "permanently squishy" brakes they can't figure out.

Don't pinch lines, but don't drag your feet in swapping the lines and it should be good to go.

Use the friend assisted or slower gravity bleed technique at the farthest wheel from the reservoir until you see it's clean & Keeping the master topped up. BUT DON'T BOTTOM OUT THE MASTER CYLINDER.

Work around getting them all to bleed "new" looking fluid and you'll be clean 'nough.

Swapping lines you have to bleed all four corners, and that's enough clean up for bad fluid.


Note, (it's been a long time since I've done it manually so my procedure may be a bit dated):
ABS doesn't change much unless the system goes fully dry... like you leave it to drain overnight... (which lets lots of water vaper in the air up into them seals...

then may the good Lord help you if your doing it manually:

you'd have bench bleed the master you need to let it gravity to bleed the wheels... then attachments at the ABS module, then attachments at the master... if you want it at 100%. A right mess...

Or pay 200 bucks for a pressure bleeder and force it all out! Much easier! <<< I've never looked back. Takes me 2 minutes.
 

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