Coolant leak, what is this part?

Hi all!

Usually I just drag my truck to my mechanic friend but he's not available... so I'm hoping someone here can help.
1999 Ranger , it's been sitting for a while due to parts needing replacing. Had some plastic t's go bad in the coolant system (one inch hoses on top), I couldn't get the clamps off, finally a friend helped. Found some ugly colored coolant so I recently did a flush/fill/flush/fill to clear it out. After about 5 rounds it's good looking, but then this morning it's dripping!

Attached are pictures of the area, behind the belt pulleys, that I think I narrowed it down to. The coolant being wet above the gasket looking area is baffling me...the engine has been off for over 24 hours so it's fresh. The leak is a drip every second or so (traveling down along engine parts).

I'm trying to identify what this area is and if I'm looking at major repair (in which case I'd probably end up selling the truck) or not so major (in which case I can wait till mechanic available). And can it be driven like this?
Chilton manual didn't help much !

Looks to me like the water pump. Which engine is this? Is the coolant fan blade attached and to the right of the first picture? If your cooling system had a bunch of mineral crud in there, then it’s possible that it was sealing the leak up on the inside and when you flushed it, it might have busted loose. I still think that flushing it was a good idea though, even if you now have a leak. At least you won’t be overheating because of a clogged line.

Driving with a leak is dicey. At the very least, I’d carry a few jugs of distilled water in the truck with me until I could get it fixed, especially if it’s leaking as much as you describe. If you start to get close to overheating, pull off, let her cool down, then top things off with the H2O until you can make it home. Long drives are probably not a good idea.

Good luck!

Yup, that thur is a warter pump.

Water Pump confirmed. Not a bad job to replace it. I did one in my 99 back in January. Took me waaaay longer than it should have because I had to fight to get my fan off but once you know the trick it's simple, I'd estimate that it would take 2-3 hours.

You're also luckier than me, when mine gave up the ghost it didn't leak it just quietly rusted away internally to the point where it was purely ornamental.

rangerenthusiast: It's a v6 3.0 liter flex fuel engine . The friend that replaced the hoses showed me crud (wiped out what he could) so there was definetly sludge in there, even though the system has been drained/flushed a few times in the past few years due to having to replace parts. Water pump isn't kiss of death so that's great news! Thank you adsm08 for confirming!

When I say "driving" I only mean over to the parts store or to somewhere to have it replaced...I had to retire the truck as my daily driver and lease a car because of all the breaking downs so no extensive driving needed. I just hate to give up a paid for vehicle and I miss using my truck! I would like to go to Home Depot (10 miles round trip) with it , but if the water pump leaking is going to cause something else to break I'll wait. Looks like the leak slowed down, but that could be due to loss of pressure in the system from not running so I don't trust that lol.

I'm wondering now if the random tapping I was hearing when flushing the system was the pump...it sounded a lot like the lifter tap I had on my original 95 but it seemed closer to the cab instead of the front of the engine. Of course it only did it when I was sitting in the cab and not when I was next tot he engine waiting for it...

Now the big question...is this something I can do myself with a limited set of tools....hrm.... and I'm positive we changed the fan clutch a couple years ago so it would just be the pump from what I'm reading....?

nsmar4211 said:

When I say "driving" I only mean over to the parts store or to somewhere to have it replaced

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Don't risk it if you don't have to. These engines can be a bit temperamental with cooling issues i.e. Overheating = possible blown head gasket

nsmar4211 said:

I'm wondering now if the random tapping I was hearing when flushing the system was the pump...it sounded a lot like the lifter tap I had on my original 95 but it seemed closer to the cab instead of the front of the engine.

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Water pumps will sometimes give off a 'tapping' sound when they're toast but hard to say from across the interwebs.

nsmar4211 said:

Now the big question...is this something I can do myself with a limited set of tools

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Yes. Deep socket ratchet 13mm and I think 10mm if my memory serves, several bolts you encounter have studs. A flex head ratchet would have been nice when I did it for mine, same year and model. The torque specs range from in-lbs to low ft-lbs so make sure you have a torque wrench that can do that. If you have trouble finding the specs let me know and I'll see if I can dig them up for you.

There were two big pains when I changed mine: getting the fan disconnected but it sounds like you've done that before so hopefully it will be easier. And removing the bolts that hold in the AC/PS assembly. One or two bolts for the WP are hidden behind this assembly and cannot be removed with it still in position. There are 3 bolts that are a piece of cake to find on the front but there are two that are a little confusing on the rear/low end that drove me bananas. You don't have to disconnect the AC lines if you use straps or something to secure the assembly so that it doesn't bend or break the lines, you only need to move it a little to access those bolts. Be sure to remove all traces of the old gasket from the WP housing and to use gasket sealer/RTV before installing the new one.

Some of the disassembly is covered in my HG Walkthrough which is the exact year and model of your truck if you want to check it out in the How-To Articles section. It's not a bad job and waaaaay cheaper than sending it to a shop. There are also several YouTube videos walking you through doing it. I'd set aside 4 hours at least but doing it again I think I could knock it out in less than 2.

Some tips: When you're finished installing the water pump, flush that cooling system out really well. That sludge you see? It is likely part of the water pump having rusted away so now your fluid is practically mud. When I say flush it well I mean flush her with a garden hose for 20-30 minutes. Fill the radiator up with water. Drive for 10-15 minutes and drain again. Repeat as needed until the water comes out clear or stops getting clearer with each repetition. Then run a flush through it like Prestone or Royal Purple (follow the directions). Then flush once more with water and fill up with the right coolant and mixture of coolant to distilled water.

Also I'd highly recommend changing the t-stat after the last flush, they're dirt cheap and you won't have to worry about the old one being clogged with crud.

Sounds like a lot but once you get down to doing it a lot of things become clear.

nsmar4211 said:

and I'm positive we changed the fan clutch a couple years ago so it would just be the pump from what I'm reading....?

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General rule of thumb: When one goes the other isn't far behind which is why it's suggested that when you change either the WP or the fan clutch you change both because they wear together, a new part mated to an old one can potentially cause the old one to wear out faster. Ultimately your call on just doing the WP but in your shoes I'd probably do both as they really aren't that expensive.

ForTheLoveOfMonkeys said:

Water Pump confirmed. Not a bad job to replace it. I did one in my 99 back in January. Took me waaaay longer than it should have because I had to fight to get my fan off but once you know the trick it's simple, I'd estimate that it would take 2-3 hours.

You're also luckier than me, when mine gave up the ghost it didn't leak it just quietly rusted away internally to the point where it was purely ornamental.

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I’ve only known one other guy that this happened to (though I’m sure there are plenty of others). He had a late-80’s Yoder and the impeller rotted away to dust. Of course, my 2000 Jetta had the plastic (!) impeller disintegrate as well.

EDIT - Sounds like ‘Monkeys has given you a lot of great advice and is more familiar with this engine than I. Having changed the fan clutch recently should be a big help. I bought a new fan blade and shroud for mine, but haven’t been able to change them because that clutch nut is LOCKED on there. No fun. On a side note, I think I read on another thread that adsm mentioned having removed the radiator and using a bunch of connected ratchet extensions to go through the grill to get at some of the water pump bolts a little easier. Just thought I’d mention it, in case you get into a tight squeeze. Good luck and glad you’re not giving up on the old gal!

rangerenthiusiast said:

EDIT - Sounds like ‘Monkeys has given you a lot of great advice and is more familiar with this engine than I.

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He just caught me at a good time for him, I did it myself back in January on the exact same truck so the memory and coolant smell on my hands is still fresh.

rangerenthiusiast said:

On a side note, I think I read on another thread that adsm mentioned having removed the radiator and using a bunch of connected ratchet extensions to go through the grill to get at some of the water pump bolts a little easier. Just thought I’d mention it, in case you get into a tight squeeze. Good luck and glad you’re not giving up on the old gal!

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Not sure if removing the radiator would have been helpful enough to justify the additional PITA it would have been. Might have been able to see some of the bolts that you have to find by feel but I had the new part sitting in view which made it easier to kind of just trace my fingers along the edge of the old part until I hit a bolt. There are two bolts on the (EDIT) driver side (/EDIT) that are just impossible without moving that stupid AC/PS assembly because it sits just in front of them. By the time I was done I was cursing whoever designed it that way .

rangerenthiusiast said:

Having changed the fan clutch recently should be a big help. I bought a new fan blade and shroud for mine, but haven’t been able to change them because that clutch nut is LOCKED on there. No fun.

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Have you tried using some angle iron with a hole in it to bolt to the WP pulley? It's my go to for this now. The angle iron hits a solid part like the AC/PS assembly or the battery/fender and all of a sudden it can't move and you can torque the ever loving monkey out of that clutch nut. Failing that I've seen evidence of shops using a chisel to break the lock. You can tell when you go to move that nut and there's a deep groove along one of the faces.

Failing at that you can always use a flame wrench.

"Bolt can't stay stuck if it's a liquid"

Ok, you guys convinced (scared) me enough to put a call into my usual mechanic. He said to wait until he can do it because he wants to do a "real" pressure test before we change anything. He smentioned that water pump is a total pita to change in this truck, no sense in wasting money and it being the wrong thing. He also said I'd have a hard time of it without knowing what I'm doing when I said I was thinking of doing it...

This is awesome information in this thread! I really appreciate the detail... I'm going to pass along some of the tips in case he hadn't tried it that way already (which I doubt lol). Very grateful to you guys! I'll post with the results of what he finds. Now the fun part...getting the truck over to him. He said drive conservatively, put water jugs in the cab, and just watch the temperature but it should be fine at the distance it has to go (11 miles) to his house...I guess I'll find out!

nsmar4211 said:

This is awesome information in this thread! I really appreciate the detail... I'm going to pass along some of the tips in case he hadn't tried it that way already (which I doubt lol). Very grateful to you guys! I'll post with the results of what he finds. Now the fun part...getting the truck over to him. He said drive conservatively, put water jugs in the cab, and just watch the temperature but it should be fine at the distance it has to go (11 miles) to his house...I guess I'll find out!

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Not that I had a whole lot of useful input, but hey, you’re very welcome! The folks on this site have been so helpful to me too, so I’m always happy to chime in, even if it’s just for moral support.

Speaking of which, I think you’ll be okay getting it over there. The part about bringing a bunch of water jugs with you is critical. If it was me, I’d try to get a buddy to follow me over, top off the coolant before you go, and keep a close eye on that temperature gauge the whole ride. If she goes anywhere above normal operating temp, pull over, shut her down, let her cool off and carefully top off the coolant. Seriously, steam burns are no bueno!

You can also help to keep the engine cooler during the drive by leaving the AC off and turning your climate controls to their hottest setting, while putting the fan on full blast. That will pull some heat off your cooling system while you drive. If it’s a warm day, just roll down your winnders for comfort.

I'm in Florida so it's going to be a miserable drive LOL...I was hoping I wouldn't have to blast the heat but I guess safer is better than sorry. Plus I'm going to take the route that, while busier, has plenty of places to pull off. The back road is all expensive ish peoples houses (hey, mind if I sit here and drip on your fancy grass? thanks). I was going to have someone follow me, but there wouldn't be much they could do and then there'd be two of us miserable LOL.

Maybe I'll get lucky and its a pinhole hose leak thats perfectly squirting on the water pump....ha...

Best of luck to you nsmar4211. If you drive conservatively then I would expect the coolant probably won't have much time in 11 miles to get up to dangerous levels unless your coolant really is mud at this point.


Keep on eye on that temp gauge though.

In this truck the temp gauge warning of overheating is more of a polite suggestion. On my truck it gets to the just below half level at about 180-185F and stays there until about 210F. After 210F on my truck that needle starts moving up very, very slowly. I'd say that if that needle ever gets to the tip of the temperature symbol then that's your cue to let the engine cool off for 20-30 minutes.

If you were within a 1-2 state radius of Maryland I'd have come help you sort it out but Florida is a touch too far for a weekend trip. If you have the time and your mechanic is open to it I'd suggest you stay and watch. I gained a lot of valuable experience doing mine and the mistakes I made taught me a lot along the way.

Either way keep us posted, I'd be interested to know if it turns out not to be the water pump.

Update: Truck made it over to the mechanics house, I drove it early in the morning and blasted the heat the whole way-temp gauge rose but didn't overheat (whew). Of course when I got there it stopped leaking (probably due to more crud breaking loose).

While we were looking at the pump, I noticed my fan was cracking-cracks behind every blade and then one gaping crack behind one particular blade. Obviously I had him change that too-the one part no one had in stock locally so it was a good thing this isn't my daily driver. And due to the amount of antifreeze that had gotten on the belt, I had him change the belt (old one was 4 years old anyway) since it was coming off. Oh, and a new thermostat since I had bought one anyway.

He brought the truck back to me yesterday. He showed me the water pump-the amount of crud caked on it was incredible! He said he was surprised the impeller was intact still. He described the job to me, I'm very glad I didn't attempt it myself. Who designed this engine?!!? Different sized bolts, bolts needing special treatment, gasket that has to be removed but you can barely get to all the areas, moving the alternator and the a/c compressor over to reach stuff, sheesh! And yes he ended up using a chisel on the fan nut. EDIT: he mentioned in passing its a left handed thread and he held onto the belt to keep everything steady while removing it (in case anyone else didn't know that)./EDIT Of course this was 19 years of the bolts never being removed so that made it even more fun. The coolant he drained was yuck-all the draining and flushing I did only got out part of the crud apparently.

So far, no more coolant leaks. The only oddity is that the temp gauge kept fluctuating, never past half, but he had checked it on the computer and nothing showed-possibly just the sensor going bad. Since everything is changed, he said just keep an eye on it but he wouldn't worry.

Thank you everyone for all the help! He asked how I knew it was the water pump, told him I uploaded pictures here...LOL he was impressed.

Glad to hear you got her running again.

About the temp gauge...

mine was getting funky too and I changed out the temp sender (single wire, just to the top and side of the water pump, OEM part was orange clip) and it improved immensely.

My personal theory was that my coolant had gotten so bad over time that it damaged the sensor so that might solve your problem as well.

EDIT:
Also yeah getting it apart can be a real pain, but consider this: these engines are considered to be on the easy side to work on, you have room to get to almost everything and they're pretty forgiving for the most part. Compare that to my fiancee's Prius where to clean the throttle body I have to remove the windshield arms, now that's insanity.

Hey, nsmar. So glad to hear that you got her all fixed up. Drive and enjoy!