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Replace external voltage regulator w/ internal regulated alt?


Mylesofsmyles

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My alternator seems to have given up on my '85 2.3l ranger

Can I swap for a late model unit with internal regulator?

I'd assume the battery wire would stay consistent and the new alternator would adopt the exciter wire from the old external regulator,
 


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Correct. That's the ONLY wire that I had to cut when I did a 4.0 swap in my 84 BII. I believe the wire in question is the green one at the regulator on the fender.
 

Mylesofsmyles

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I'm still wondering about this...

Is there a "Magic" alternator that'll bolt onto my '85 2.3 w/ power steering?
 

RonD

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Google: tuff stuff one wire alternator installation

The extra wires on an alternator are to turn it on and off, and alternator will drain the battery if it is not turned off.
And to run a voltage meter or Battery Light.

The 1 wire alternators use an internal RPM sensor to turn on and off, so above 600rpm they turn on, below 500rpm they turn off.
So you don't need the other wires.

Yes they make them for '85 2.3l Ranger
And they also make some with a connector for battery light or voltage meter
 

Mylesofsmyles

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I'm really hoping for a JY solution...there must be a production option available in some other Ford...

I found a late fox body 2.3 Mustang at the JY yesterday...didn't see an external regulator but there must have been at least 6 wires coming off that alternator...

I'm used to my Volvo setup...one large lead to battery, and one small exciter wire to light on cluster.
 

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It is just a brand of inline fuses.

You current alternator will have 1 or 2 wires connected to the "B+" terminal, these either have a fuse or Fusible Link at the end that connects to Battery(Starter Relay and/or Fuse Box).
These are rated for 60-90amp depending on current alternator's rating.
If you haven't added any subwoofers, e-fans, driving lights or winches then they will work fine, for now, with a 130amp alternator, because stock factory power draw will be under stock fuse rating.
But I would run larger diameter wire(lower gauge) and a higher rated fuse so you can take advantage of the extra power the new alternator has in the future.
 

Mylesofsmyles

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Yup...no accessories added.

I've got a pair of Bosch fog lights, though I haven't wired 'em in yet.
 

Mylesofsmyles

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Hmm, by the looks of it, from that link...

Those late model Aerostar/Mustang alternators would be bolt in...without the Chevy bracket.

I'll grab one, next time it's half-off day at the JY...or I find a good rebuilt unit.

I wanna figure out a starter, with integrated solenoid next
 

RonD

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...........

I wanna figure out a starter, with integrated solenoid next
Actually all starter motors have integrated solenoid :)
But not a Starter Relay
New starter motor will have two connections, larger post is for larger cable going directly to battery power, and a smaller "S" post, 12volts on this smaller post will activate starter motor(the relay part)

Once you have the new starter with built-in Relay installed you have two options, assumes you have larger starter motor cable hooked up to new starter:

Remove the old starter relay from fender and hook all the wires from it to a "power junction block", basically a post, google it.
So battery cable and starter motor cable are now on the same post with alternator cables.
Then extend the smaller "S" wire from the fender mounted Relay to the New starter motor Relay's "S" connection.
"S" wire is from the Key switch, it has 12volts when key is turned to START, it activates the Relay.

Second option is to leave old starter relay where it is.
Move start motor cable to the Battery cable post.
Extend "S" wire to new relays "S" post.

Some may say to run a wire from old relays motor post(now empty) to new Relay's "S" post, which will work, but you now have two relays that can fail, and you are still running a wire to new starter...................so just use the old relay as a "junction block" and extend the "S" wire.
 

Mylesofsmyles

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I'll recycle the power distribution block from a Volvo 240...really nice part...

All the fusible links that are on the starter relay now, will get spade connectors and go on there...one lead from battery (+) to the power distribution block....and one heavier cable from battery (+) to starter....

Extend "S" wire as you've suggested, and run new alternator off starter battery post.

This is all an exersize in trying to have a "cleaner" looking engine bay

My question is what cars do I find such a starter on?
 
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RonD

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Wrecking yard might have that info, also not sure if the manual/automatic trans starter motors are different, some are.

Ford used the Lima engine in alot of cars along with the Rangers.
The 2.0l/2.3l/2.5l Lima engines used the same block so I would think the flywheel or flex plate would be the same, so the starter would be the same???
These engines were made/used from 1983 to 2001, replaced by Duratec engine starting in 2000-2002.

Not sure what year Ford started switching to built-in relay on the starter motor, my '94 has that.
 
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Mylesofsmyles

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Yeah...I'll just have to start peaking underneath all the cars in the yards...

I'd imagine the auto and manual trans cars all have interchangeable starters...

For now, mine is an auto, but I'll be swapping in a M5od, as soon as I overhaul my suspension,steering & brakes
 

RonD

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I wouldn't count on starter motors being the same, I would check at a local parts store.

If you are in Calif. I would also check if transmission change from auto to manual will keep you from passing inspection, they are getting pretty ANAL about any changes in the stock drive train, and of course about squeezing more money out of you.
If it ain't stock they may make you pay for an "extra" inspection.
 

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