Here we go again!

cbxer55 · Feb 26, 2017

Kind of figured that would be too easy. Yet despite that, the cover says the information is based on actually doing the work. :annoyed:

lil_Blue_Ford · Feb 27, 2017

If it can be done, I'd like to see it. Older Rangers, like first and possibly second gens you can reach the bulbs. I guess they just figured it would be the same. I have Haynes manuals for all my trucks, but I pretty much just use them for things like torque specs

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lil_Blue_Ford · Feb 27, 2017

http://therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2009/gauge_removal.htm

There's a few things not really mentioned in it, and it kinda doesn't exactly apply to us because there is no way to pull the cluster out like in the article in an automatic because of the shift indicator, you would have to disconnect that from the shifter in the steering column and carefully remove it. I found it easier to just work on it in the dash. Typically only the 194 bulbs need replaced because the little bulbs are for the dummy lights like check engine. Since they shouldn't be on much, there shouldn't be much worry about them burning out.

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cbxer55 · Feb 28, 2017

Found the bolts for the shift linkage, they were very loose. There were actually four of them, two up high and two down low. They were all loose to some degree or other. Three only took half a turn to tighten. One of the uppers took six half turns (three turns)to get it tight. Shifter is now nice and firm once again. Whereas before when I park, the shifter would not hit the P firmly. Now it stays firmly in Park with no wiggle at all. Should eliminate the intermittent no start when in Park (I could put it in neutral and it would start).

May take them out one-at-a-time this weekend and put some blue Loctite on them. Going to check my Lightning as well. There's no indication there is a problem, but might head one off.

For those looking for them, look for the gold colored brackets with two each gold colored Torx T30 fasteners.

cbxer55 · Mar 1, 2017

I'm getting a windshield sticker made that says CHRISTINE, in bold blood red colors.

Drove it to work and home Monday, no problem. On Tuesday, I go to pull it out of the garage, the darn tailgate flops down. I'm thinkin what broke now? WTF????? :icon_confused:

For those who have not had the pleasure of being in the vehicle when the tailgate flops down, it'll wake you up! That's for darn tootin!

Try and shut it, it wouldn't latch. I forced the latches into place with a long thin screwdriver, opened it, tried closing it and it still wouldn't latch. Forced the latches again and drove to work. :dunno:

Today, no problem with the tailgate at all. Wanted to try and figure out what happened, apparently nothing. One time glitch. WTF????? :annoyed:

stmitch · Mar 1, 2017

That's not uncommon. You can remove the panel on the inside of the tailgate and hit the latch mechanism with some lubricant to take care of that.

cbxer55 · Mar 1, 2017

stmitch said:
That's not uncommon. You can remove the panel on the inside of the tailgate and hit the latch mechanism with some lubricant to take care of that.

Did that last year, used white lithium grease. Took the cover off today anyhow, and re-lubed it even though the old lube was still there. I do have a leather bed cover, so when it rains it does stay pretty dry.

Anyhow, it's never happened before. And it was a head scratcher because I haven't opened the gate in a week. It just opened itself, the day after I drove it to work and back. I'm like "how the hell did that just happen? :dunno:

1996xlt · Mar 1, 2017

Mine did it to me pulling into my driveway, scared the crap out of me....it was a combination of worn out clips that connect the latch linkage to the tailgate handle and being ill-adjusted. Robbed some out of my old rotten tailgate and hosed every moving part down with WD-40.

cbxer55 · Mar 1, 2017

1996xlt said:
Mine did it to me pulling into my driveway, scared the crap out of me....it was a combination of worn out clips that connect the latch linkage to the tailgate handle and being ill-adjusted. Robbed some out of my old rotten tailgate and hosed every moving part down with WD-40.

I checked all the clips toady, they are fine. Several years ago I put a Pop N Lock tailgate lock in, and it's been fine since. Just surprised me when the tailgate fell of it's own accord.

When it drops, it sure does scare you. First thing I thought was something in the transmission let go. I changed the filter and fluid in January, and thought the transmission didn't like the change. :icon_rofl:

cbxer55 · Mar 8, 2017

Had the oddest thing happen to me today. Was at a light, when it turned green stuck my foot in it. Them 255/60-18 Cooper Cobra GT's both spun up like my Lightning does, back end started walkin on me. Love it when my Lightning does that, but never thought my little 3.0 automatic could. Never did before anyways.

Since I got it back from the diagnostics, with the exception of the couple times it tried doing the no-start on me, it's been running exceptionally good. Much better than it ever did before. Don't even have my chip on it for now, although I'm certainly tempted to try it after today.

So, did the new computer and flash programming add something it didn't have before (Ford update perhaps?), or is the 5% E85/93 octane fuel doing something it didn't do before. Cause both back tires spinning on a 7.5 OPEN differential with 3.73 gear caught me way off guard.

Oh, the mixing of 5% E85 with 93 octane has kept the crank no start issue away, haven't had one problem with it since I started doing it several weeks ago.

stmitch · Mar 9, 2017

I notice a difference when switching from gasoline to e85, but that's a much higher ethanol content. I doubt you'd really notice 5% ethanol.

My money is one the truck running so much better because of the new plugs. You're actually burning all of the fuel properly now.

cbxer55 · Mar 9, 2017

stmitch said:
I notice a difference when switching from gasoline to e85, but that's a much higher ethanol content. I doubt you'd really notice 5% ethanol.

My money is one the truck running so much better because of the new plugs. You're actually burning all of the fuel properly now.

Maybe, but I've changed the plugs numerous times over the 17 years I've had the truck. Usually doesn't make one bit of difference. I'm saying it's running better than it ever has in those 17 years. Running better now without the chip on the computer than it ever ran with the chip on the computer.

I wonder if when Ford flashed the new computer, they didn't flash it as a California vehicle? I mean, it's running awesome. Throttle response is superb, even at low rpm's where that huge intake tube of mine should make it a dog down low. It's never lit up the tires before. I have Lakewood traction bars on her, set pretty tight at the snubbers, and it still lit up them pretty large sticky tires, on dry pavement no less.

It just caught me off guard, that's all. I expect it in my Lightning, not my Ranger.

Here's a few of my Lightning, just for the hell of it. Yeah, I expect it to light up them 305/45-18 Nitto NT555R's in the back. Even with those LONG traction bars. ;-)

Rear are stock rims, 18 X 9.5 with 305/45-18 Nitto NT555R's on them (the pic shows Mickey Thompson drag radials). Fronts are stock rims cut down to 7 inches, with 225/60-18 Michelin's.

cbxer55 · Mar 9, 2017

BTW: in the second picture above, there is a panhard bar (track bar) from the differential to the axle. I am going to look into making one for my Ranger. I know where to get the components, all I need to do is make the bracket that attaches to the differential. I am going to order a TA differential cover this weekend, when it gets here I am going to use that to mock up a bracket for the differential. Then make a bracket to attach to the right frame, along with a reinforcement plate for the outside of the frame.

Same exact thing as what's in that picture. For those who like going around corners fast, it really does make a big difference. I noticed it right off the bat, first time I went zipping around a corner at speed. Made as big a difference as putting polyurethane bushings on the mounting points and end links of the two sway bars.

Once I get it all figured out, I may post a thread to see if there is any interest in my making a few more.

JP02XLT · Mar 9, 2017

Is that a Roush prepped Lightning? Just curious, I like it, How much boost you running?

Again Nice Truck

JP02XLT

cbxer55 · Mar 9, 2017

JP02XLT said:
Is that a Roush prepped Lightning? Just curious, I like it, How much boost you running?

Again Nice Truck

JP02XLT

No, it's a ME prepped Lightning! LOL

Everything done to it I did myself, except the exhaust as I don't have welding stuff.

Four pound over lower, stock upper, cog drive. So 12 pounds total with a completely non-slip belt arrangement.

Here is my signature line over at LightningRodder.com. They allow larger signatures than TRS does. ;-)

2004 White Lightning, #2750 of 3781. JLP Sheet Metal Plenum, Long Bars, I/C and Radiator tanks. LFP Intake and Shackles. Nemo's Cogs with four pound lower. Chickenwings_85 Idlers. RPM Outlet Cogs. Brett's Manual Blower Tensioner. Broncobeater Panhard Bar, Drive Shaft Safety Loop and Passenger Side Shock Flip Kit. ARE Bed Cover. Bedrug. Thunder Tip. QA-1 Rear Shocks. TA Differential Cover. Underhood Specialties Polished Steel Radiator Cover. Front Rims Narrowed to 7 inch with 235/60-18 Michelin's, Nitto NT555R in 305/45-18 out back. Street Scene side steps painted to match. Shaved and color matched rear bumper steps.

Here we go again!

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