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adsm08's Ranger build up

What design should i put on my diff cover

  • Blue Oval

    Votes: 8 100.0%
  • A face (gimme more specific ideas)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Words (gimme a specific idea)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Other (gimme a specific idea)

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    8
  • Poll closed .

adsm08

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This thread has a really long first page.

Anyway, I've had this thump when doing burnouts for a while, then it started with a bang over bumps when another adult was in the truck. I knew my cab bushings had seen better days, so I go some and was waiting for nice weather to put them in. Last weekend it got really bad so I took another look and found the brace for the rear seat mounts sitting directly on the frame.

Last night I got to taking the cab loose.

My helper:


These were bushings. 20 or 30 years ago:





For anyone who ever wondered how to get at the cab bolts on the early Rangers:




Just pull back the carpets and there they are.
 


Mark_88

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Looks almost exactly like what I had on my 88. Those bolt covers were only on the front two bolts in the cab and the rears only had the plastic covers. The driver side of by my foot has quite a bit of rust around the hole now so it doesn't even take the old metal covers...I'm looking for something to plug that hole now but I need to remove any loose metal that is around where the screws went.

Your helper sure has grown since the last time I heard anything about him (like being born...lol)...nice looking child...and I see he has your penchant for tools....:)
 

adsm08

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Yeah, they grow up fast. If you scroll around my build threads there are pics of him. I know I have at least one of him helping me put the Torsen unit in last summer.


When I got it all torn down I found the mount brackets were toast. The holes are bigger than the mounts. I want to fix it right and replace the brackets, but I am having trouble finding them for a super cab. For the moment there are a lot of 1-1/2" washers in there.
 

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Please post pics of whatever you put back in along with where you got it. I have the same problem. (I think one of my bushings is gone completely.) I've been wondering about the best way to replace all of that.
 

adsm08

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So I bumped to 31" tires today.






The rear tires are off my red Ranger, the front ones are take-offs from a van that was in the shop a few weeks ago. Yesterday I scored a set of 31x10.50x15 BFG all terrain TKO2s with a bit less than half tread for free. Those are going to go on my good wheels, but I needed them off the truck to do that, so I figured I'd put these on to get my trimming figured out.
 

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Just read the whole thing

Love this thread! awesome post.
 

adsm08

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Well I got some work done today. Got the bed off the donor truck.






Now it's decision time. This frame is in better shape than the one on my black truck.





Got to use my new compressor full force, used the grinder, drill and hammer to get the last spun bolt cut off.

Got a pneumatic sander last night, gonna pick up some paint and start sanding here in the next couple days, get the bed cleaned up and the under-side painted.


Now for the decisions:

1) I need to decide which frame to use. The red one is pictured, but its a 2wd frame. The black one is 4x4, but needs repairs. Both need hangers and shackles.

2) If I use the red frame I have to decide if I am going to do the work to make it 4x4, or SAS.

The frame repairs can be done, and will happen either way, but using the red frame would leave me less down time without a truck.

The frame conversion shouldn't be too hard. I know its generally considered too much work and not worth it, but the engine is already out, and the cab is coming off one way or another, so it may not be so bad.

The SAS would likely cost more, but it would open up my TTB axle to put in my BII. I also like the look of the solid front end, and the idea of maybe having a live axle up front if I get a CV axle.

I know this thread isn't super active, but if anyone has any input on these issues I'd love to hear ideas.

Also, does a Grand Cherokee front end fit width wise? The one I'm thinking of is a 97, so ZJ maybe?
 

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since a good chunk of the prep work is already done, go for it!
 

adsm08

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I was reading through Escort's SAS thread, the 2nd one where he started with a 2wd truck, and he had a post noting that he had to chop out and re-shape a portion of the engine cross member. Still thinking.

I'd really like some direct input from someone who has done this on a 2wd TTB truck. I like the idea of a solid axle, but it might be out of my skill set, and I don't have a welder.

One of my other constraints is lift. I don't want to lift it more than an inch or two, due to clearance issues with my garage doors.
 

country0001

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I made a bracket to bolt to the 2wd cross member and am running my ttb with 4 inch lift on a 93 ranger.
I also removed my 4wd cross member from my old b2 frame. It was a major PITA. It is riveted and welded.

I still need to do an alignment and camber adjustment.
 

adsm08

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If that thing is welded then I am just going to repair the existing 4x4 frame.

With as low as the 2wd member sits I can believe 4 inches of lift may be the minimum needed to clear the diff. I don't have 4 inches to the top of my garage doors.

I am actually still on the fence about putting the door openers in because I'm worried about hitting them with the truck. I have a pretty low ceiling.
 

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Somebody on here ( Allan D, maybe?) swapped a 4wd crossmember into a 2wd frame. Sounded like a massive pain in the ass but it is doable and depending on the level of damage to your 4wd frame might be preferable.
I considered that for my Ranger but decided to SAS it instead. If you were considering the SAS on your 2wd frame, the Jeep XJ Dana 30 HP would probably be easiest, needing some brackets made but otherwise largely bolting on. http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Dana30.shtml
Food for thought.
 

adsm08

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The known damage to the 4x4 frame is as follows:

The section of the driver's side frame rail aft of the rear spring hanger, from center line up needs cut out and replaced.

The cab mount brackets are rotten. The vertical sections are intact. The horizontal sections are currently patched with large fender washers.

I need new spring towers in the front.

I also suspect that it is slightly tweaked, as I had a rub issue with the running boards on, and I haven't ever been able to get the wheel straight after an incident with a ditch a few years ago.

The condition of the 2wd frame is largely unknown, but appears to be in better shape.


The D30 is the axle I was leaning towards, due to the already correct width, proper bolt spacing for the wheels, correct gear ratio available, and the existance of a CV style version. I know CV joints are not usually as strong as U-joints, but I am liking the idea of a live-axle, which makes CV joints preferable to U-joints.


I am still on the fence. I guess the biggest question is how well does the D30 fit under a 2wd cross member with no lift?


I supposed one other factor to consider at this point is that I have come to the point where I think a 5.0 swap is in order. I have determine that my ability to stop a load with just the truck's brakes greatly exceeds the engine's ability to get that same load rolling, and since this truck is my work horse I feel more power is in order.
 
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country0001

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I still prefer the 4.0 over the 5.0 in a Ranger. Plenty of power for what most people need. If you need more, you may need a F150.

If you go with a 5.0, the D30 won't be enough. Brakewise and strength.

You will still need to trim and reinforce the 2wd crossmember.
 

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I have read that the high pinion D30 in a XJ is the way to go over the low pinions in Wranglers and ZJ's.

I also have read it takes about 4" of lift to clear a SAS in a RBV. That massive engine cross member gets all sorts of in the way.

Might check out dangerranger83's thread, he has a D30 in his truck.

I still prefer the 4.0 over the 5.0 in a Ranger. Plenty of power for what most people need. If you need more, you may need a F150.

If you go with a 5.0, the D30 won't be enough. Brakewise and strength.

You will still need to trim and reinforce the 2wd crossmember.
Brakewise? D30's must have pretty sucky brakes because I have never had a problem with the brakes on my D28 with my 5.0. Never broken anything either but I don't like to thrash on things.

I make a little more power as a 4.0 but with a V8 battle cry, I love it :icon_thumby:

From past experience I doubt adsm08 has any V8 swap plans though.
 
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