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2.9 - No Spark


kmh1000

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I currently have no spark, although the spark seems to be intermitted. The truck fires when you first turn the key, but dies after a couple of seconds, then will not fire again for hours and has no spark. Occasionally, I am able to keep the truck going by working the throttle. When the engine comes up to temperature, it runs great. I have great fuel pressure, it just seems to loose spark when the engine is cold.

I have replaced the ICM and Coil. What else can I, should I check before I start throwing money at random parts? Thanks for any help. It is an 88 2.9.
 


97RangerXLT

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Check the TFI module... (not sure if that is the ICM you mentioned...)

Check all of your grounds.

AJ
 

RonD

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Good read here on the TFI system and testing it: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.shtml

Just as a test, I would run a jumper wire from the "+" battery terminal to the "+" on the coil, so "hot wire" the coil.

Most older systems have a separate START and RUN power path for the coil, TFI has this.
When starter motor is activated, key in START position, the coil gets full battery voltage, this helps with cold starts, hotter spark.
When key is in the RUN position the coil gets 8volts, this helps to keep coil cooler over long term use and hotter spark is not needed once engine is started.

If you crank the engine and it starts but dies when you let off the key(key moves back to RUN) then RUN circuit could be the issue.
And visa versa, if engine doesn't fire when cranking but starts to fire when you let off the key the START circuit could be the issue.
 

kmh1000

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Check the TFI module... (not sure if that is the ICM you mentioned...)

Check all of your grounds.

AJ
Yes it was the TFI module I replaced. Ill check the grounds. Thanks
 

kmh1000

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Good read here on the TFI system and testing it: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.shtml

Just as a test, I would run a jumper wire from the "+" battery terminal to the "+" on the coil, so "hot wire" the coil.

Most older systems have a separate START and RUN power path for the coil, TFI has this.
When starter motor is activated, key in START position, the coil gets full battery voltage, this helps with cold starts, hotter spark.
When key is in the RUN position the coil gets 8volts, this helps to keep coil cooler over long term use and hotter spark is not needed once engine is started.

If you crank the engine and it starts but dies when you let off the key(key moves back to RUN) then RUN circuit could be the issue.
And visa versa, if engine doesn't fire when cranking but starts to fire when you let off the key the START circuit could be the issue.
Ill give this a try. It seems to start normally the first time you turn the key, then quickly dies and won't fire again with no spark. Only major thing I haven't changed would be PIP sensor. Does that sound like a possibility? Is there an easy check for that?
 

RonD

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Print the Worksheet in the TFI link I posted, it will check PIP and Hall effect sensor
 

RedNeckRanger

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You could also try the engine coolant temperature sensor. Not the one for the gauge, but the one for the ECM. There is probably either a voltage or resistance value that it should be within if it is good.
 

BrianbroncoIIman

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I had a similar issue and it was my dittibutor being wore out, the shaft would take litle gouges out of my cap, and hhit the hall effect sensor causing that until it would just quit working, unfortuantly for me i replace three of those sensers thinking it was cheap china built stuff. But when i broke down the last time and bought a 100 dollar good one and had that happen again, thats when i figured out about the shaft bushing being wore out. If you go to advance auto parts they sell a rebuilt distributor with all sensors life time warrenty on all for about 90 dollars thats how i went just pull distributor next time and gime me a new one.


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BrianbroncoIIman

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Oh forgot to say this to check the hall effect quick and easy look at your tach when turning it over if it shows 500 rpm hall effect good if not bad. But 500 rpm is needed for start. When mine went bad i had 0 rpm that is how i knew it was the hall effect


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