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Old 09-15-2018, 04:18 PM   #1
kishy
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Default My 2.0-to-2.3 swap

Hi folks!

To recap on my brief history here at TRS...

I initially came here seeking to know if I could use 2.3 parts to EFI swap my existing 2.0: http://therangerstation.com/forums/s...d.php?t=175086

But I encountered a few too many unknowns to want to risk that, and came across a supposedly nearly-new 2.3 (F5 part numbers, is a 95+ 2.3 Lima, but is set up like a 93-94 EEC-IV example) which I inquired about here: http://therangerstation.com/forums/s...d.php?t=175138

The existing 2.0 has serious oil consumption issues (around a quart per hour of runtime and visibly smokes under all conditions) and the carb has a worn throttle shaft causing an uncorrectable vacuum leak, so the logical choice was to just ditch this engine entirely.

I have been quietly hunting parts, mapping wires, and mentally preparing to do this engine swap to get rid of my 2.0. We're finally here, ish.

---

First, I needed to figure out a way to mount an EFI high pressure pump. My preference was to put it in the tank like most vehicles from the 80s onwards do, although there are some exceptions, notably some but not all Fords (including the Ranger until 1988).

I determined that my exact same fuel tank (which I purchased new in 2015 - Spectra F21C) was used through 1988, after which a new tank was introduced. I went to a junkyard to check if a 1988 2.3 EFI truck used the same tank and found it did. This meant I could salvage its fuel sender, which would gain me a return line (needed for EFI) and the hanger for the in-tank pump.

1988 still uses two pumps, and the one inside the tank is very small. However, I bought a Carter P74123 pump which is also very small despite being a normal EFI pump, and was able to make it fit. I had to recondition the contacts in the fuel gauge sender as it had a lot of opens and high resistance spots which would make the gauge unreliable. I tested the new sender with my existing cluster and verified it behaves well, before committing to installing it. I also replaced the wires on the sending unit which feed the pump, because the old ones for the low pressure lift pump seemed a little thin.

With this, I will be able to use 1993-scavenged plastic fuel lines to feed the fuel rail which is also a 1993 part.

The tank came out and the sender went into the tank yesterday 9/14. The tank is still outside the truck as I felt it would be best to have room to move around under there for mating the transmission to the engine post-swap.
















---

Today, I replaced the starter relay (aka solenoid). This is important because the original installed on my truck is the old-school vertical style with a D8 part number, which does not have a flyback diode within. Flyback diodes were added to the design beginning in the 80s for EFI vehicles because a relay not so-equipped can damage electronics like the ignition module or ECM. The new relay will avoid that. I made sure after doing this that all vehicle electronics including the starter circuit work, so if there is a starting issue after the swap, at least I know this is working correctly.

I drained the coolant and oil. Removed the air intake tube and air cleaner. Removed the radiator. Removed the idle speed computer, Duraspark module, and ignition coil. Removed the engine harness (note to self - this contains the reverse light switch pigtail, if different from the one on the 93 harness). Removed the fan clutch and fan, hoping to reuse these on the new engine.

Unbolted engine mounts, unbolted trans from engine, unbolted exhaust bolts (one came out clean, one snapped off). Put a jack under the trans, then hooked my engine crane to the 2.0 and gave it a tug. Popped out pretty easily. Removed the engine mount brackets from the old engine as I need to reuse those, but I will use new actual mounts. Also knocked out the bellhousing alignment dowels (hollow metal tubes at the leftmost and rightmost bolt holes for aligning trans properly) because my new engine lacks them.

I am currently on a bit of a break from the heat and to grab some food. Next steps will likely involve cleaning the engine bay and finding all the wires I need to connect things to. The new engine may go in by the end of the weekend but probably won't. I suspect I'll appreciate having the extra room to work for making wiring alterations.

































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Old 09-16-2018, 12:19 PM   #2
Johnnyboiranger22
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Nice job man! Im yanking my 2.3 out as we speak, I would sold a bad reman cylinder head so i had to yank it apart again.
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Old 09-16-2018, 07:55 PM   #3
kishy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnnyboiranger22 View Post
Nice job man! Im yanking my 2.3 out as we speak, I would sold a bad reman cylinder head so i had to yank it apart again.
That's awful. You specifically buy a reman head to try to reduce the work required, and they go and screw you over with sloppy work.



Progress for the day was fairly minimal. I'm going to need some input here from the crowd, maybe.

Removed wires from 85 harness for 1G alternator which will not be used with the new engine. Keeping the original charge wire in the picture though as, depending on how much of the 93 wiring I use, I may end up keeping all body electronics fed off that original wire. The 3G alternator will have a new dedicated charge wire directly to the relay terminal as well.

Traced wires against manual and verified functions where possible.

Ran fuel sender wiring under truck. Lines still need to be done but that won't be hard.

Measured for new ground wire. The original is severely corroded inside the jacket for much of its length.

Determined I will need to modify one of the engine mount brackets due to clearance against the newer style alternator bracket. I will also need to replace a plug (the 2.3T turbo oil return I think?) with a flush one to clear the bracket.

Came up with a few mystery wires I want to identify before proceeding. These all pertain to features my truck never had, so since it doesn't have them, I can't easily figure out what the wires did. The early EVTMs are not good for figuring out wire functions if you don't already know what feature they pertain to.










Mystery wires I can't identify yet:

Pink with black dots, pink with red dots, and blue with black dots, coming through the firewall and ending at a 3-pin round connector located near the washer fluid reservoir:


Purple/yellow coming through the firewall together with the blower motor and resistor wires, ending in a 1-pin connector affixed to the passenger side fender sheetmetal:
Edit: upon closer inspection it is Yellow with a Purple stripe (Y/P).
Inside the firewall, it goes through C213 with the blower motor wiring.
On the other side of C213 it becomes green with a gray stripe.


1: Light blue wires (no stripes). One comes through the firewall together with the main harness, going to a 1-pin connector which was unused in my truck. The wire continues back out of the connector along to another connector, a 4-pin one that looks similar to the Duraspark connectors. The other side of that connector did not have a corresponding wire populated.

2: Solid green wire (no stripes). Comes through the firewall together with the main harness and originally went to a 2-pin connector, also similar to the Duraspark connectors, which was not used on my truck.


This is the connector I snipped off the green wire, for reference.



If anyone knows the functions of the mystery wires, I'd appreciate knowing. I'll continue to search the EVTM and maybe something will jump out at me.

None of these are the hood light wire, I know where that is.
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Last edited by kishy; 09-17-2018 at 09:22 PM.
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Old 09-17-2018, 10:11 PM   #4
kishy
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Swap progress for today:
Finished mapping wires, with exception of clutch safety switch signal to computer which I may worry about after completion. I'm not altering the original 'start' circuit, but need to add switching between SIG RTN and ECM Pin 30 so the computer knows when the clutch pedal is down. The clutch switch has a connector for a second circuit which I will be examining further for this purpose.

The mystery wires described above are still unknown; they won't affect wiring up the 93 stuff, but it would be nice to know what they are for.

Mocked up fitment of 93 air cleaner assembly and found it fits perfectly. I was concerned about the battery tray being on that side, but it looks like it's going to work. This simplifies things like using off-the-shelf air filters, 93 factory original zip tube and sensor placement, as well as the cold weather air diverter function to pull pre-heated air off the exhaust manifold. As a winter vehicle, it makes sense to have that operational.

Focus will shift to the new engine shortly. Need to scope the cylinders to make sure they haven't rusted from not running in 15-20 years. Sorting out the mount bracket, replacing the timing belt, installing a thermostat, installing a block heater and maybe replacing the rear main seal pre-emptively are on the list.

I'm somewhat concerned about the passenger side engine mount. In order to use my original 85 mount bracket, I need to cut a fair bit of metal off of it to clear the alternator bracket. I can only attach it with 3 of its original 4 bolts due to lack of the 4th boss on the newer block. It's not clear that I could use a junkyard 93(ish) mount bracket because the mount itself also changed at some point, and might be a different height (no way to know without taking some measurements).





















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Old Yesterday, 06:33 AM   #5
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I would not get too concerned about having only 3 of 4 bolts for the passenger side mount bracket. This thing does not produce enough torque to worry, IMO.

The suspected drainback plug could be shortened to create clearance. There should never be a reason to remove it unless you plan on installing a turbo. I do not have one of these to know that it is a drainback fitting. The lima was used in the 84-ish(?) turbo T-birds, but I never looked to see what my brothers car had as a drain fitting, nor where.
I have an 85 with factory 2.3 EFI, and still like it. It is Canyon Red and would be a twin save for the rust factor(CA & GA don't use much corrosives on the roadway).
Given you are going to a 93 vintage, I doubt my 85 EVTM would be much help. The connector over on the passenger side, single wire could be the A/C clutch control wire or the wire with a diode(prevent flyback current). I have a factory plastic 'sheet' that pushes onto some threaded rod to cover a passel of connectors. As I remember, there are a few not used. My model was vary basic, so lots of accessories were not installed. The same harness was used for the Bronco II, so it has/had options for console stuff.
There was a guy on Ford-Trucks that restored his Bronco, repairing floor pan rust, and I conversed with him about a problem he had with wiring. He may have good knowledge, but may not visit here. You might want to look there in small truck/vehicle section. It's been a while.
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Old Yesterday, 08:04 AM   #6
kishy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomw View Post
I would not get too concerned about having only 3 of 4 bolts for the passenger side mount bracket. This thing does not produce enough torque to worry, IMO.

The suspected drainback plug could be shortened to create clearance. There should never be a reason to remove it unless you plan on installing a turbo. I do not have one of these to know that it is a drainback fitting. The lima was used in the 84-ish(?) turbo T-birds, but I never looked to see what my brothers car had as a drain fitting, nor where.
I have an 85 with factory 2.3 EFI, and still like it. It is Canyon Red and would be a twin save for the rust factor(CA & GA don't use much corrosives on the roadway).
Given you are going to a 93 vintage, I doubt my 85 EVTM would be much help. The connector over on the passenger side, single wire could be the A/C clutch control wire or the wire with a diode(prevent flyback current). I have a factory plastic 'sheet' that pushes onto some threaded rod to cover a passel of connectors. As I remember, there are a few not used. My model was vary basic, so lots of accessories were not installed. The same harness was used for the Bronco II, so it has/had options for console stuff.
There was a guy on Ford-Trucks that restored his Bronco, repairing floor pan rust, and I conversed with him about a problem he had with wiring. He may have good knowledge, but may not visit here. You might want to look there in small truck/vehicle section. It's been a while.
tom
I was thinking that, about the torque being not enough to worry. But Ford saw fit to make the passenger side bracket a fair bit bigger than the driver side one, and mount it with that extra bolt, so I figured they had an engineering reason for it. I suppose I'll cut the bracket down and if it somehow fails in the future I'll come up with something at the time.

I will replace the square-headed plug with a recessed/flush plug instead.

Worth keeping in mind as it affects a lot of "little things" that this is a 95+ engine (95-97 I suppose), but is wired for EEC-IV which was used up to 94. So all my wiring is akin to a 93-94 truck but the engine "hard parts" are like a 95.

I have the 85 and 93 EVTMs, which have been very helpful, but there are dramatic differences between the early-mid-80s EVTM vs the later one. The later books are way more detailed with pinouts for most body connectors and more complete diagrams with better descriptions.

I have that plastic cover you describe, it covered up the connectors on the driver fender apron. Depending on how this wiring mess looks when I finish with it, that cover may or may not go back on, mostly coming down to if it will even fit...I'm adding more wire to the truck than it already has at all.

I've never done anything quite as involved as this project, but I'm hoping my attention to detail is leading to a successful result.
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