Are Brake Hardlines Getting Cheaper?

85_Ranger4x4 · Mar 22, 2015

I did one line from the center to the wheel on my 7.5 and then both sides for my 8.8. I used my dad's MAC clamp type flare tool, haven't had a problem with it leaking yet, 8.8 swap was almost 4 years ago. Used Oreillys coated steel line too.

adsm08 · Mar 22, 2015

MastuhWaffles said:
Pretty much the exact same as the factory.

Pretty much and exact same are not the same thing. Which one is it? As you pointed out in a previous post when working with something that seals by pushing two pieces of metal together you gotta have it pretty much perfect. That means on brake lines you have the exact type of flare you need or you have the wrong one, no middle ground there.

MastuhWaffles · Mar 27, 2015

adsm08 said:
Pretty much and exact same are not the same thing. Which one is it? As you pointed out in a previous post when working with something that seals by pushing two pieces of metal together you gotta have it pretty much perfect. That means on brake lines you have the exact type of flare you need or you have the wrong one, no middle ground there.

It was the same flare as the original ford factory hardlines. The double flares. I was thinking about trying a bubble flare but I wasn't to sure on that working correctly, since I couldn't seem to find a proper one to work. Maybe later I will get my own flaring equipment and do my own, I could cut the line down to the right length so it wouldn't have so much extra line. The problem is you can really only get a 30 or 20 inch line and with the swap they are either to long or to short.

85_Ranger4x4 · Mar 27, 2015

MastuhWaffles said:
It was the same flare as the original ford factory hardlines. The double flares. I was thinking about trying a bubble flare but I wasn't to sure on that working correctly, since I couldn't seem to find a proper one to work. Maybe later I will get my own flaring equipment and do my own, I could cut the line down to the right length so it wouldn't have so much extra line. The problem is you can really only get a 30 or 20 inch line and with the swap they are either to long or to short.

Yeah, you are supposed to get the too long one and cut it to fit. A lot easier than stretching the too short one. :icon_thumby:

Once you get the cutter, bender and flare tool, have at it. I actually enjoy doing it. If not for the whole safety thing of losing my brakes it would be fun to do more often really. Like I said, I have done 3 and haven't had a leaker yet.

Andy D · Mar 27, 2015

The Rat has home made brake lines. It takes practice to make a good double flare. Follow the directions that come with the tool. It isn't rocket surgery to do brake lines. You also need a tubing cutter, a ream, and a file. I do not own flare wrenches. They must be of top quality steel or they will spread and slip.I dont use them enough to justify the cost. When I could use one it would be to take off the line. Lately the first thing I do when replacing a line is to remove 95 % of it with a set of dikes . Then I use a 6 point socket to back out the rusted fittings. I found a drop of oil helps stuff slide too. I've never used the copper nickel tubing. I figure the ones I made will outlast the Rat

PS, Bubble flairs are a European standard. thats what my BMW has. I don't think they will work on a Ford

If you have a single flare tool you can buy the right size double flare bit from Eastwood. Ranger takes a 3/16.

det107 · Mar 28, 2015

85_Ranger4x4 said:
Once you get the cutter, bender and flare tool, have at it.

I once made the mistake of buying an el cheapo bender.....Let's just say that I had to buy another brake line & brand name bender. Do spend the $ on brake related tools-

Are Brake Hardlines Getting Cheaper?

85_Ranger4x4

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adsm08

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MastuhWaffles

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85_Ranger4x4

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Andy D

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det107

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