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Looking for advice on fast idle issue - ignition advance issue


Ray V

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Vehicle Year
2003
Make / Model
Mazda
Transmission
Manual
Hello, I am looking for advice on repairing a friend's 2003 B2300. The engine is not idling properly. When the throttle is let off, the engine idle does not drop smoothly down to 800-900 rpm. The idle drops to at around 1300, stays there for a few seconds, and then falls to around 900 rpm. There are no codes. I use an Actron 9580A scanner (not professional grade).

I suspected a bad temperature sending unit (either ECT or CHT) or perhaps a malfunctioning IACV, but they tested OK. The O2 sensors test OK (and the problem is unchanged with the O2 sensors unplugged). I expected the ecu to throw a code with the O2 sensors unplugged but there was none.

The EGR valve is a pain to access so I have not touched it.

I think that the problem lies with my ignition advance. The ignition advance, under constant engine rpm with no load, is as follows:

900 rpm - 0 degrees
1500 - 10
2000 - 10
2500 - 15
3000 - 20

When I blip the throttle quickly, the rpm rises to around 1300 rpm, stays there for a few seconds, and then falls back to 900. The ignition advance is as follows: 0 at idle, a sudden drop to around -8 degrees and then a fairly rapid rise to about 15 degrees. The advance stays high for a few seconds until the suddenly dropping to around -6 degrees. The engine rpm falls at exactly the same time that the advance drops. This vehicle has no distributor, so I am unsure how to test the vehicle further to determine if the ecu is bad or something else.

Any suggestions?
 


DFracing

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Vehicle Year
2002
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ford
Engine Size
4.0
Transmission
Automatic
So what's the problem? 4 cyls just idle high.
 

modelageek

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Jan 31, 2009
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Location
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Vehicle Year
2004
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Hello, I am looking for advice on repairing a friend's 2003 B2300. The engine is not idling properly. When the throttle is let off, the engine idle does not drop smoothly down to 800-900 rpm. The idle drops to at around 1300, stays there for a few seconds, and then falls to around 900 rpm. There are no codes. I use an Actron 9580A scanner (not professional grade).

I suspected a bad temperature sending unit (either ECT or CHT) or perhaps a malfunctioning IACV, but they tested OK. The O2 sensors test OK (and the problem is unchanged with the O2 sensors unplugged). I expected the ecu to throw a code with the O2 sensors unplugged but there was none.

The EGR valve is a pain to access so I have not touched it.

I think that the problem lies with my ignition advance. The ignition advance, under constant engine rpm with no load, is as follows:

900 rpm - 0 degrees
1500 - 10
2000 - 10
2500 - 15
3000 - 20

When I blip the throttle quickly, the rpm rises to around 1300 rpm, stays there for a few seconds, and then falls back to 900. The ignition advance is as follows: 0 at idle, a sudden drop to around -8 degrees and then a fairly rapid rise to about 15 degrees. The advance stays high for a few seconds until the suddenly dropping to around -6 degrees. The engine rpm falls at exactly the same time that the advance drops. This vehicle has no distributor, so I am unsure how to test the vehicle further to determine if the ecu is bad or something else.

Any suggestions?
maybe the PCV issue http://www.ranger-forums.com/showthread.php?t=116900
 

modelageek

Active Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2009
Messages
2,241
Reaction score
14
Points
38
Location
Boston, MA
Vehicle Year
2004
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Also the best thing to do in a situation like yours is to bring up all the maintenance. You did not say if you pulled the IACV and cleaned it out? clean the MAF, change air filter and make sure intake is not clogged, clean TB and butterfly valve.......look around for vacuum leaks ie. PCV valve.
 

Ray V

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Joined
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Messages
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Vehicle Year
2003
Make / Model
Mazda
Transmission
Manual
I will check the PCV valve. I don't have anything to lose except some time.

The vehicle is pretty well maintained. I replaced the coil myself last year. The main reason that I worked on the car was because it was leaking oil into the spark plug wells on #2 & #3 cylinders, and my friend asked me to replace the valve cover seals. While I was at it, I cleaned the MAF, IACV, throttle plate. I also installed new plugs and replaced a functional ECT sender with the wrong replacement part (that was a pain).

Thank you,
 

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