As I consider attempting a timing belt replace, a few questions for those experienced

Hey all,

First time posting, new to the forum. But I've been looking for awhile. A big thanks to all those who help out guys like me on here.

I'll get to the point:

Anyways, I was driving when I stopped at a light and then went to hit the gas and nothing. I parked and eventually figured out that my timing belt snapped like a rubber band (after I checked the fuel pump and replaced the fuel filter).

This forum has some great guides to replacing the timing belt and YouTube has some good videos too. It looks like I can do it, but my Haynes manual warns about attempting the project.

I've got a 97 Ranger with a 2.3 engine. It's about as basic as they come. It has no power steering system and no A/C system. I put some pics up so you can take a look.

I'm getting quotes from $412 (ford dealership) to $750 (PepBoys) to do the job for me, but it looks fairly straightforward.

Since my Ranger is so basic is looks like I'd just drain the radiator and remove the line and pull the fan system and I'm right about there. Even with all that in, I can open up the cover for the timing belt.

Can someone tell me why there are so many warnings about doing this job? Is it really all that difficult to get the engine to line up correctly and get the belt on? It looks like you just have to be careful it's lined up correctly.

And, I think especially on mine, it must be even easier because of the lack of power steering and A/C.

The most difficult part seems to be getting the bolt off the fan clutch (I was gonna borrow a friend's air impact wrench) and rent a puller from AutoZone or something.

I'll pay the $412 to do it right, if I'm going to ruin my vehicle, but any advice one way or the other I guess?

Sorry for the lengthy post and thanks in advance to any advice given. I look forward to being as helpful a member as I can be on this forum. I'm learning as I go along.

Rad can stay in if your hands are small enough. I've been able to unbolt the fan and get it back in just by undoing the shroud.

If you are mechanically inclined I'd give it a go yourself. The great thing about the 2.3 is that it's non-interference, so even if you do everything ass backwards you don't break stuff, and it is fairly simple. Make sure you do the belt tensioner while you are there though.

^^Yup...what he said.

I've changed the belt on mine a few times (set timing, essentially) without removing the rad or even the fan...but with your year the crank pulley needs to be removed to get the belt on...but even that's doable as I recall squeezing the belt on my crank pulley without yanking it (I removed it the first time but figured plan B out later)...

The price they quoted is about 90% labour...or more...the belt might set you back $50 but I don't think it's even that much...if you remove the rad then you're looking at another $10 for anti-freeze...but the rest is just time to remove and replace things when the belt is on.

So...give it a shot...worst thing you can do is skin all your knuckles, break all your tools and maybe pitch a few things through windows...best thing is with the money you save you can afford to replace everything and take a week off work to heal...

Thanks guys, I really appreciate it.

This forum member put up what looks like a great post about how to do it. One thing he says though "Turn the crank pulley in the same direction that it would spin if the engine were on until the timing mark on the crank pulley reaches the TC mark."

Do the engines turn different ways? I feel like I've seen most people use a rachett without a socket on it and then pull toward the passenger side of the vehicle. Is this right for all rangers, or do different engines turn in different directions?

Also, I was planning on doing the thermostat while I'm in there too, as well as the belt tensioner. I just bought this ranger last year and it's already died on me three times (pretty easy fixes though) so I'm just trying to do all of the preventative maintenance I can on it, since I have no idea what the last owner did (the brown trans fluid I dumped is a good indication it wasn't much).

Is there anything else those who have done this job would recommend doing at the same time? I've heard the water pump should be replaced too.

Thanks much.

Engine always turns in the direction that the bolt tightens. For Ford that is always to the right.


Yeah, while you are in there is a good time to do the water pump as well.

Thanks man. Last question, I think. Am I going to have a problem getting the timing to line up with the old belt snapped?

It's literally broken like a rubber band. I saw on a online guide that you need the old one to get the whole thing in alignment. If you do need the belt to do that, what should I do to get it timed correctly before putting on the new belt?

I think that's incorrect...the old belt may have stretched and the belt tension pulley takes up the slack, if any, so the belt always remains taught (tight) or stretched to provide smooth movement.

The teeth on the belt and those on the gears do not really change their spacing either way. The belt, being the softest of the materials involved, will be reduced in size on the edges of the teeth if the stretching affects the way they mesh with the teeth on the gears.

So, in effect, a new belt will fit perfectly initially. The trick is always to line up the gears on their marks and to line the cam (top gear) last so that the slack in the belt is between the cam and the crank with the adjustable pulley between them. The real trick is to not have either the cam or the crank move while applying tension to the belt...as this causes the timing to be out...by a tooth or two.

The pulley bolt can be released slow enough that the spring on the tension pulley is applied evenly between the two gears and to eliminate the "snap" of the belt that can jar the gears out of place...mostly the cam gear, but both are fairly free to rotate...as you will see once you start moving things around...

It really is, to me, a matter of feel in the last stages...that is not hard to acquire...with practice.

Just wanted to do a last post and say thanks for the help.

I replaced the timing belt, timing belt tensioner, water pump, thermostat, two radiator hoses and the fan clutch over the weekend.

I had changed the fuel filter when I thought that was my no-start problem originally.

I fired it up and the truck is running great!

A big thanks to those who gave me a hand, both here and generally across these forums with their posts.

One thing I'll mention is I made marks with a silver marker on the crank and on the timing marks that helped me get it timed properly. I'd recommend doing that to anyone doing this repair.

Until the next one ...

Thanks for the update...glad everything worked out for you...

My Dad once used pink or red nail polish to mark his timing on an engine. I remember them (Dad and his buddy Peter) laughing over it but even I could see it after that...

I used some white out on my 2.3 and it stayed on for many years.