cstarbard
Member
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2017
- Messages
- 225
- Reaction score
- 4
- Points
- 18
- Age
- 30
- Location
- Oakham, MA
- Vehicle Year
- 1996
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Size
- 2.3
- Transmission
- Manual
- My credo
- It do like it be
Hey guys,
On my 96 2.3, I've been having super persistent Evap system codes P0443 and P1443 and I'm hoping you guys can help me fix this issue since I've tried a lot of things. Here's what I've done so far:
I have had both codes off and on for as long as I've had the truck, so about a year. Today I scanned it and I only had P0433. I checked the wires to the Evap purge valve and it was clear the wires were damaged because there was an obvious cut in the insulation on one wire, and if I probed the wires with a multimeter, KOEO, I got readings from 0 volts to 12.6, depending on how I moved the connector around. I fixed those wires with spare Ford wiring bits I have, and now the connector reads 12.6 ish V consistently. The P0443 did not come back after a 30 minute drive or so, but now I have a code for P1443.
I checked the wires on the thermistor connector for kicks, of which there are 3. I used the black wire with white stripe as ground, then switched the multimeter's lead between the red wire and the black and green wire. One way gave me 12.6 or so V, the other way got me 5V. As with the purge valve connector, moving the connector could fluctuate the readings from 0 to 5 or 0 to 12.6 depending on which wire was being probed, so as with the purge valve connector I replaced the wires and now the connector consistently reads 12.6 or 7.5 ish V, depending on which wire I probe with the lead.
I found it odd that one way got me 12.6 and that one way got 5-7. I was guessing that there are two power wires for some kind of switch, in which case I would have expected about 12.6 on both. Should the lower reading be higher? Can anyone provide me a wiring diagram?
I have several Evap purge valves and several thermistors (all from junkyard 2.3 trucks), no combination of those will shut the light off so far. In the past, whenever I have cleared the Evap code/s or had the battery disconnected working on the truck, the code/s came back almost immediately- is there a chance I have fixed the code and the light will go off later? I'm doubtful
Other things I've done: I swapped the gas cap, no difference. I replaced the vapor line all the way from the engine bay to the fuel tank vapor filter thing, I know its not clogged or damaged because its new line. I inspected the valve on the tank and it is undamaged, seems to work
What else should I look at? I feel like I'm running out of things to check
I know I could replace the evap valve and the thermistor, but it's like $70-100 to do both and I don't really want to waste the money if they are in fact fine and I have a wiring problem. I also would think that if they were bad one of the many spares I got from a junkyard would have worked, but I guess I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't either
On my 96 2.3, I've been having super persistent Evap system codes P0443 and P1443 and I'm hoping you guys can help me fix this issue since I've tried a lot of things. Here's what I've done so far:
I have had both codes off and on for as long as I've had the truck, so about a year. Today I scanned it and I only had P0433. I checked the wires to the Evap purge valve and it was clear the wires were damaged because there was an obvious cut in the insulation on one wire, and if I probed the wires with a multimeter, KOEO, I got readings from 0 volts to 12.6, depending on how I moved the connector around. I fixed those wires with spare Ford wiring bits I have, and now the connector reads 12.6 ish V consistently. The P0443 did not come back after a 30 minute drive or so, but now I have a code for P1443.
I checked the wires on the thermistor connector for kicks, of which there are 3. I used the black wire with white stripe as ground, then switched the multimeter's lead between the red wire and the black and green wire. One way gave me 12.6 or so V, the other way got me 5V. As with the purge valve connector, moving the connector could fluctuate the readings from 0 to 5 or 0 to 12.6 depending on which wire was being probed, so as with the purge valve connector I replaced the wires and now the connector consistently reads 12.6 or 7.5 ish V, depending on which wire I probe with the lead.
I found it odd that one way got me 12.6 and that one way got 5-7. I was guessing that there are two power wires for some kind of switch, in which case I would have expected about 12.6 on both. Should the lower reading be higher? Can anyone provide me a wiring diagram?
I have several Evap purge valves and several thermistors (all from junkyard 2.3 trucks), no combination of those will shut the light off so far. In the past, whenever I have cleared the Evap code/s or had the battery disconnected working on the truck, the code/s came back almost immediately- is there a chance I have fixed the code and the light will go off later? I'm doubtful
Other things I've done: I swapped the gas cap, no difference. I replaced the vapor line all the way from the engine bay to the fuel tank vapor filter thing, I know its not clogged or damaged because its new line. I inspected the valve on the tank and it is undamaged, seems to work
What else should I look at? I feel like I'm running out of things to check
I know I could replace the evap valve and the thermistor, but it's like $70-100 to do both and I don't really want to waste the money if they are in fact fine and I have a wiring problem. I also would think that if they were bad one of the many spares I got from a junkyard would have worked, but I guess I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't either
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