88 ranger will turn but not turn over

NKYE · Jul 28, 2018

Sorry for the cap lock, its just what i am use to using and easier to see cause of work....

I was driving ole bettsy till she got temperamental... I first noticed an electrical burning smell inside the cab but did not see any smoke, then i noticed the battery light indicator lite up on my dash. When i began to turn off the road i noticed my power steering was not working either.

Things i have checked:

Have power to all accessories and hear the fuel pump humming when the ignition is in the on position.

Battery cables are secured.

Serpentine belt is good.

Things i have not checked yet because aint had the chance cause the weather hates me....

Ignition module, check for spark, starter solenoid, distributor.

VEHICLE INFO: 1988 RANGER XLT 2.3L MANUAL TRANNY 4X4.

If anyone has any further ideas which can lead me in the right direction, please do...

I think my alternator might have burned up, but i am not for sure... When i get the chance i am going to take both the alternator and ignition module up to the parts store for testing... But may be a few days or the next break in the rain an storms.

Also, i have been searching the forum but nothing with my similar situation was i able to find. It was either one or the other and each posting i read lead in a complete different direction, so i figured i would go ahead an register an account an submit my first posting after using this awesome site for info for situations like these when i can not figure it out myself. An i have been using this site for several years now as my primary reference .... Even over the repair manual, which has dust on it now... Lol

RonD · Jul 28, 2018

Check that the CAM is turning when trying to start, timing belt may have broke

tomw · Jul 29, 2018

But, remember that a cam belt with missing teeth can still turn the cam and aux shaft. You have to check the timing marks to be sure the valve is still in time with the crankshaft.
This post is rather vague, but this is what I get:

Driving, the cab smelled of electrical fire or heat, the warning light came on, you turned off the road, and noticed no power steering.

I figure the engine stopped running. I also figure that it will crank, but not start.

If that's the case, check the cam belt, as they are a replacement item. Check for spark at one of the spark plugs using a spare plug, or holding the wire near the engine and cranking. If you have spark, squirt some burnable fluid into the intake, you can use one of the vacuum lines as an access port, and try to start the engine. If it starts or barks and chuffs as if it is going to start, you likely have a fuel supply problem.
The alternator should not make the engine stop except... if the battery voltage is too low, at which time it will run terribly.
I would need more information to give anything else.
tom

NKYE · Jul 29, 2018

sorry when i stated i thought my alternator had burned up, was one of my first thoughts as it happened. that shoulda been put toward the beginning of the post.

as for being vague with details.... i have listed everything i have heard seen and done thus far... dont know what other details you were looking for... ask an ill try my best to answer...

NKYE · Jul 29, 2018

I was unable to do much troubleshooting today.... damn rain and storms on and off all day... but i was able to look over most of the wiring under the hood and they are all in horrible shape.

Does anyone know if anywhere sells a replacement wiring harness??

As I did buy this truck used... from what I have noticed I think this wiring harness and motor was not original because the wiring job doesn't look neat like it came from the manufacturer.. not to mention there are a few places where pigtails are not plugged in to anything and I don't see where they would...

NKYE · Jul 29, 2018

Here are some pictures of the wiring I found today. I noticed the wiring on my fuel pump relay was really bad off, does anyone know where I can buy new pigtails so I can replace this?

RonD · Jul 29, 2018

That first and second picture is fuel pump relay, Green base, that wiring needs to be addressed, new base

Looks like factory wiring, just been worked on a few times, so wires have been pulled out of the harness and not put back in.

There was just one wiring harness for most models, so hook ups for all options can be there, but if the option wasn't selected then wire was loose, nothing to plug into.
i.e. AC, automatic trans, cruise, ect.....

You could look online but 1988 2.3l wiring harness probably won't be found, too old

NKYE · Jul 30, 2018

I think I found a website which sells new pigtails ... I was able to find a new fuel pump relay pigtail so my horrid one can be replaced. Probably going to look into replacing all the pigtails under the hood.

Is there a reference anywhere that has pics of what each connection is an the location? Not talking about the wiring diagram either...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

NKYE · Jul 30, 2018

Forgot to add the website I was talking about ....

www.rockauto.com is the website. Seems like they have really nice selection of parts for all makes models an years... hope this helps someone else...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

tomw · Jul 30, 2018

Ford sold the "EVTM" electrical vacuum trouble shooting manual with LOTS of images, not snaps, of the wiring and inner fenders as 'assembled'. Find one, as they are worth twice the price.
When I bought my truck I got all that stuff available in the back of the OM, from HELM, Inc. A firm that supplies the industry with documentation services. Was over $100, but worth it over the years. I think I have 6-7 sets of factory manuals.
The EVTM is the best. If you can spend a few, get one.

The wiring looks factory. There is a Ford PDF document about their available pigtails, factory.
THe wires with the exposed insulation are normal over time. The insulation must shrink as it ages. You can clean them with something like brake cleaner, and then use hot glue to cover the exposed wires. Check that the hot glue you get is non-conductive. It should preserve the wiring, but actually, unless you live in a salt area the wires should survive and last without doing anything. You do run a risk cutting & splicing...

Do you have spark?
Do you have fuel pressure?
Have you tried checking for spark at the end of a plug wire while cranking?
Have you heard the fuel pump run for seconds when the key is turned to ON?
There is a access port, shrader, that you can poke to check pressure or rent a gauge.

tom

NKYE · Jul 30, 2018

Thx for the info on the manuals. Unfortunately I am having to wait for all this tropical weather to pass before I can check or spark an fuel pressure. I haven't been able to spray an starting fluid in the intake either .... I really need to build me a damn garage...lol

I do hear the fuel pump humming when the ignition is in the on position.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

RonD · Jul 30, 2018

Yes, do the 50/50 test first, spray fuel into the engine

That tells you instantly if its a fuel or spark/compression issue

NKYE · Jul 30, 2018

Was able to use some starter fluid.... no change in how it sounds or acts when cranking .... I guess the next step would be to check for spark??

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

RonD · Jul 30, 2018

So no fire when cranking after adding fuel?

Then next step would be to confirm CAM gear is turning when cranking engine.
Look behind timing belt cover you can usually see the belt or gear
2.3l and 2.5l often broke belts, doesn't damage the engine but you get a No Start because No Compression

1988 2.3l still used a distributor, pull off the cap and see if Rotor is turning when cranking engine, that also runs off timing belt, so belt can be checked that way as well

tomw · Jul 31, 2018

One thing to be aware of is that if the fuel pump runs continuously when you turn the key to ON, then the computer is likely damaged. The pump should run for 3-5 seconds after key ON, then stop. If it continues, but stops after a while, the computer is on the way out. It will NOT start if the pump is still running. From my experience with a 97 3.8v6 in wife's Tbird.

Check for spark. You can borrow/buy 'noid' lights to check for injector pulses, or use a VOM to check that ground is being supplied to open the injector for a spritz.
tom

88 ranger will turn but not turn over

New Member

Official TRS AI

Well-Known Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

Attachments

Official TRS AI

New Member

New Member

Well-Known Member

New Member

Official TRS AI

New Member

Official TRS AI

Well-Known Member

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Today's birthdays

Member & Vendor Upgrades

Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Amazon Deals